24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

cylinder head weight

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 26, 2008 | 10:31 AM
  #1  
ted_pulliam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: NC
cylinder head weight

I've been cautioned against attempting to replace the head gasket on my truck without an assistant. I assume this to be due to the weight of the cylinder head. How much does one weigh?

Also should I have some sort of overhead lift to do this or can me and a couple of friends safely lift the head out? If it is a heavy beast, then the worst case scenario is I would drop it on me, the second worst scenario is that I would drop the head on some hard surface and damage it, a very expensive mistake.

Ted
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2008 | 10:59 AM
  #2  
thumper549's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
If you are the average dude you can do it, I did it, I will think maybe 120 lbs ?
Been 4 years...cant quite remember, but was a strain
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #3  
KLockliear's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
You will want to use a cherry picker. Makes the job a lot easier.
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2008 | 12:15 PM
  #4  
ted_pulliam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: NC
Thumper549, now that I have a ballpark weight of the cylinder head, I'd like to know a bit more about the gasket replacement. Did you have a shop manual to guide you through the head gasket replacement? I have the Haynes manual.

It seems like the most important points to remember are to drain the coolant, unbolt the thing, gently coerce the head to break loose from the block, prepare the new gasket, check the head for warpage and the head studs for stretching, machine the head and replace the studs if necessary, sandwich the gasket between the block and head and then bolt it back together and refill with coolant.

Though this is a rough description only, have I left anything important out? Oh yeah, the overarching rule of thumb is to keep everything clean while I am working so no dirt makes its way into the engine!

Ted
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2008 | 12:50 PM
  #5  
thumper549's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
You are asking a loaded Q.
Reason for repair ?
Miles on eng ?
You have most of the bases covered
You might want to have it checked for cracks ( very prone )
Buy a Cummings Manuel and NEW head bolts
The Torq. Sequence and angle method is better outlined in the Manuel
Then whilst there....if needed or a up graded exhaust manifold
Pressure check inter cooler.
Clean the radiator The back side can be filthy and maybe flow and pressure check it...
( I hate re dos )
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2008 | 01:08 PM
  #6  
ted_pulliam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: NC
Originally Posted by thumper549
You are asking a loaded Q.
Reason for repair ?Miles on eng ?
You have most of the bases covered
You might want to have it checked for cracks ( very prone )
Buy a Cummings Manuel and NEW head bolts
The Torq. Sequence and angle method is better outlined in the Manuel
Then whilst there....if needed or a up graded exhaust manifold
Pressure check inter cooler.
Clean the radiator The back side can be filthy and maybe flow and pressure check it...
( I hate re dos )
The truck has 180k and change on it, and the block to head seam is always wet with coolant at the passenger side front corner of the engine, just under the thermostat. I have to replace coolant in the overflow bottle at the rate of about maybe 1 - 2 cups per month. I've replaced the thermostat but the leakage persists, so I am thinking I may have to do the head gasket soon. thanks for the pointers!
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2008 | 01:32 PM
  #7  
thumper549's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
As I remember... the fustiest thing was a fuel line at the back of the head between it and fire wall.
dont skimp on the bolts
check your DCA after job done ( Ph level )
Reply
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #8  
kalmarsam's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
the head bolt on front rightside of engine is prone to breaking.ie coolant leak on right side front of head. also head bolts should be replaced with new.ps. bare cylinder head no manifolds 150lbs.
Reply
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 07:48 PM
  #9  
thumper549's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
UUmmmppphh !!!
Reply
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 08:17 PM
  #10  
06 DIESEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 2
From: Kingsville, Md
If you have a cherry picker you are fine taking it off by yourself. When you are putting it back on I would try to find a helper so that you can line it up properly without hurting the HG. I did mine on my 06 mostly by myself, and there was no way I was going to try to take it off without a cherry picker. You have the just of the repair, just make sure that you either get NEW head bolts or get studs. Also, make sure that you torque them down properly, in sequence or it could cause the gasket to not set properly and leaque again. I think your hayes manual would have the proper procedure, if not I am sure I can find the sequence and post it here for you for a 06, should be the same for your truck.
Reply
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 08:35 PM
  #11  
06 DIESEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 2
From: Kingsville, Md
Here is some info for you from my 06 manual.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
bolts.pdf (8.8 KB, 239 views)
File Type: pdf
torque sequence.pdf (24.1 KB, 243 views)
Reply
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #12  
Clunk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 1
From: Tenn.
My neighbor...a big guy, and I took mine off the engine...way too heavy/bad position. Reinstalled with an engine hoist...very nice, easy positioning and didn't mess up the $84 head gasket.
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #13  
ted_pulliam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: NC
Originally Posted by kalmarsam
the head bolt on front rightside of engine is prone to breaking.ie coolant leak on right side front of head. also head bolts should be replaced with new.ps. bare cylinder head no manifolds 150lbs.
kalmarsam, thanks for this info. Would I be able to easily verify that my right front head bolt is broken? Could I just try to torque it to see if this has happened?

If it is broke, does this mean a major drill tap operation to replace it?

Thanks again,

Ted
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 09:52 AM
  #14  
ted_pulliam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: NC
Originally Posted by 06 DIESEL
Here is some info for you from my 06 manual.
Allright, thanks!

Ted
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 09:57 AM
  #15  
Dennis's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by ted_pulliam
The truck has 180k and change on it, and the block to head seam is always wet with coolant at the passenger side front corner of the engine, just under the thermostat. I have to replace coolant in the overflow bottle at the rate of about maybe 1 - 2 cups per month. I've replaced the thermostat but the leakage persists, so I am thinking I may have to do the head gasket soon. thanks for the pointers!
You might want to read up on "53 Block" and see if this might account for some of the coolant loss also. Just more to think about before diving into a big job.
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:39 AM.