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Cold Air Intake VS Stock

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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 01:44 PM
  #16  
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From: Watertown, NY
Thanks for all the great info. I'll definitely look into an oil analysis. As far as the vac leak, I've already had the manometer test done and was told that the blow by is within spec, that's why I was wondering if I need to even bother testing the vac pump. I guess what I'm asking is, can I have a vac leak and still pass a manometer test?
Thanks again!
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 02:22 PM
  #17  
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If it's a minor leak it will. Do you know what the manometer results were?
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 02:30 PM
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No I don't...I was just told they are within spec....I can try and find out....the guy that works on my truck is super hard to get a hold of because he does a lot of road calls...I love his work but man it's hard to actually talk to him lol
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 07:57 PM
  #19  
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Hey Leather, I posted those pics in my album for you to look at if interested....I couldn't figure out how to get them on the thread here.....
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 08:03 PM
  #20  
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Nice thanks! That setup looks pretty sweet. Ever had any problems with it getting wet? and how did you make the aluminum? yourself or a machine shop?
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Old Jun 30, 2015 | 01:56 PM
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No it doesn't get wet ever.

I just had a sheet of aluminum left over laying around that was close to the right size. I traced it out, used my jigsaw with a metal blade to cut it out, bent it between a couple short 2X4's in my bench vise and trimmed around the corners to sweeten up the fit. And eased the edges with my palm sander.....

I had to drill that hole so the shock tower would clear, and ran a piece of old fuel line around that one a/c tube to protect it.


Cheap and easy and fun to do.
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Old Jun 30, 2015 | 02:59 PM
  #22  
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Ok sounds good. My only concern is if it could bounce around and pop off the tube since it's not really secured other than the hose clamp. Is that possible?
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Old Jun 30, 2015 | 07:15 PM
  #23  
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It never has, it snugs down into that space pretty well.

A velcro strap would be a good idea.
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Old Jun 30, 2015 | 07:26 PM
  #24  
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Sounds good thanks for all the info dude. I ordered a stock intake off eBay today because I want to try that and see if it changes my performance or mpg and I needed the stock tube anyway bc my Airaid is too big for a bhaf. But if I don't like it I'm going to start working on the bhaf.
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Old Jun 30, 2015 | 11:11 PM
  #25  
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You'll likely take a small hit on EGT's, and your turbo will get pretty quiet.

I just switched my my Scotty Air II, back to stock. That was the only things I have noticed is that the EGT's are about 50-100º higher. And the turbo has gotten far quieter.

The BHAF can't bounce around too much when the hood is closed. I never had much of a problem when I ran one, and I didn't make a heat shield for mine. Velcroing it down is not a bad idea.
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 04:07 PM
  #26  
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I talked to my mechanic today and he told me the numbers from the manometer test so I figured I'd post them for anyone who is curious . He said the max number of inches of water for a worn engine in our trucks is 12. He said my truck is pulling about 4-5 inches. He said nothing to worry about.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 09:00 AM
  #27  
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4-5 inches of rise, or 4-5 inches total water movement?

If it's 4-5 inches of rise, multiply that by 2 to get the total water movement. In a manometer you get both rise and fall in the two water columns so you need both readings. What we also need is the RPM that the reading was taken at, do you have the RPM that the measurement was taken at?

Originally Posted by infidel
The blowby orifice tool Cummins uses is simply a tee with one .221" (15/64-in) outlet. Connect one end of the tee to the end of the blowby tube. Put a manometer on last tee outlet. That is your blowby tool. They sell them at the Cummins, but I have made my own plenty of times, less than $10. A simple manometer can be made by looping into a 'U' 6 feet of clear tubing with water in it half way. Measure how high the water level rises with a tape measure, multiply it by 2, convert it to LPMs.

Rough conversion is 1"= 27 lpm, add 3 lpm for each one inch (1/2'' of rise in the tube) of water

The reason for multiplying by 2 is that inches of water equals the water rise in the open end of the tube plus the inches the water is pushed down on the engine side of the water tube. For simplicity my numbers below are the measurement of rise only.


Cummins new 5.9 engine numbers are:
63 liters per minute(2.5" water rise) @ 2200rpm,
76 L/Min (3.5" rise) @ 2500rpm
85 L/Min (4.5" rise) @ 2800rpm.

Worn engine that needs rebuilding are roughly double i.e.
126 L/Min(10.5"rise) @ 2200rpm
152 L/Min(14.5"rise) @ 2500rpm
170 L/Min(17"rise) @ 2800 rpm
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 12:42 PM
  #28  
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I do not know the rpms the measurement was taken at. I am assuming it was done right as the shop that did it is an authorized Cummins service center. I will ask the specifics if I get a chance to talk to the mechanic again. However I am slightly confused. Why do we need to multiply the inches of rise by 2 if the specs are given for inches of rise at a given rpm? It sounds to me like if it was between 4 and 5 inches of rise @ 2200 rpms(or even anywhere near that) that should be good. Why do we need to know the total movement since the spec is given as inches of rise?
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 05:20 PM
  #29  
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Hey guys, not sure if any of you are still watching this thread or not but I finally got my truck back so I figured I'd post the end result as well as a potential problem I now have. The oil leaks caused by me putting my thumb over the blow by tube were from the Tappet cover and the Timing Pin O ring. After getting my truck back the other day I had the #2 fuel line leaking where it connects to the block so I had to take it back again and get them to replace it. My new potential problem is that my fuel pressure is lower now than before they removed the injector pump to replace the tappet cover. They also dropped the fuel tank to replace the sending unit. I have an Autometer mechanical fuel pressure gauge that is connected directly to the schrader valve on the vp44. When I would turn the key on I would get a pretty good pressure spike. I do not know the exact number but now it barely spikes at all like 5 psi max. And it seems to spike less when the truck has been sitting, like its sucking air somewhere. I figured the cause was the leaking fuel line but after getting that fixed today it is still doing it. My fuel pressure also drop ALOT more while I'm driving it sits at 18 psi idle and I can drop it as low 10 psi if I really get on it. It used to be 19 at idle and I would rarely see it go below 16. Before getting the fuel line fixed it also started a little hard after sitting overnight. I am pretty much convinced it has to be sucking air somewhere I'm just hoping you guys can give me some idea where to start looking. Is it possible that it's just still working the air out after having the pump removed?? I also changed the fuel filter btw. I am running a Baldwin PF9799. I also tried the trick of bumping the starter and then bleeding my guage at the isolator and while the pump was running it hit 19 psi so it doesn't seem to be the pump, which btw is a FASS HPFP 95. I previously stretched the spring to bring the pressure up to 19 psi at idle. Hopefully this isn't all too confusing. One more question- I want to delete the vac lines the the t case. I have a posi lok cable system. Do I still need vacuum to the t case or trans at all?
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 05:29 PM
  #30  
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I forgot to add the blow by test results. So this place has a guage instead of a traditional manometer. It allows them to check the blow by at maximum output or maximum boost, instead of just at different rpms. Max boost for me is about 35psi. And it was 4-5 total inches of water.
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