I just got me new truck yesterday. It was already squealing (a belt pulley, I think). My dad took it for a couple drives and the check engine light came on. I got the Code P0216: Fuel Injector Timming Error.

The belt and pulleys are part of the timing, right?

The previous owner recently had the lift pump and fuel pump replaced. I still want to check the fuel pressure. Anyway, what do you think about that code?

It is not in the code list here: http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/..._codes_P_Codes

Actually, I just took the truck to a self service car wash and washed under the hood, including the belt and pulleys, and now it doesn't squeal. I started it about an hour later and it still didn't squeal.

Also, there is this thing making a low-pitch spinning/clicking noise in the event of ignition-on. I think it's the vacuum pump for cruise control. Here is a video. Tell me if it's normal.

http://drolex.net/MOV03357.flv

If you don't have a flv player, watch video here: http://drolex.net/cruise_pump.html

 

You need an injection pump, sorry! That code is the kiss of death. Belt and pulleys have nothing to do with timing. The noise should be the lift pump working. If you have a 24v you NEED to have at least a low pressure warning light or gauge for your fuel pressure. I suspect you have low or no fuel pressure if the replaced lift pump is a stock style unit. Good luck!

 

The lift pump is a FAS whatever. The truck starts and drives fine. It has a new injection pump.

 

More comments please?

I know the noise is from the black motor in the video - I felt it - it's not the lift pump.

I think the belt does deal with timing. It's obvious that they're related.

 

The timing is all gear drive.
Maybe they didn't clear the codes when they replaced the injection pump-vp-44.

 

Umm, I can assure you that the belt has nothing to do with it. If the FASS is running than your fuel pressure should be ok. If you clear the code, how long does it take to come back?

 

The pump in the pick is the ABS pump, and it may cycle and make some noise when you turn the key on. Strangely, however, that noise in the video sounds like the starter bendix to me.

 

Where are the gears for the timing?

There was no check engine light when I got it - there were no codes at that point, right?

How do I clear the codes?

I just installed a pressure gauge for the fuel after the lift pump and filter. When I turn the ignition on without starting should the pressure remain at 5 psi or greater? The first time I turned the ignition on it went to 5 psi for a couple seconds and then down to one. Some fuel leaked out when I was installing a tee in the line so the truck wasn't starting right up. When it was cranking, the pressure would sometimes shoot up to 20 psi or so.

Now something else is wrong. When trying to start I would give the starter breaks and then try again. I wasn't thinking about the starter too much and I probably should have waited longer. Now, it doesn't turn over and it just makes a metal friction sound or something like the starter motor is fried. Of course, I didn't keep trying after that.

 

The gears for the timing are directly in front of the VP pump, under the timing cover. I don't have a pic for you, but it's easy to spot.
When you bump the starter the lift pump should run for about 15 seconds or so. As for your starter, you most likely burned up the contacts. You can get a rebuild kit here:
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Good luck.

 

I don't see how those thick copper contacts could burn up. On my last truck those contacts were worn down and then you would hear the solenoid work but nothing would happen - that's because the contacts weren't making contact. I beefed them back up by soldering smashed and formed pennies to them and it worked great. However, in this case the contacts are still making contact as indicated by the loud grinding noise.

So, you guys are saying that if the engine were seized (as well as the belt and pulleys) the injector pump would still pump away when trying to start?

Is there a way to clear the code without a OBDII device? I had AutoZone get the code for me.

 

Autozone should be able to clear the codes, I also believe unhooking the batteries for 1/2 an hour will do so also, the fuel pressure will drop until the truck is running, at least with the stock type of lift pump, (not sure abut the FASS)

 

I tested the starter again after a while as it was working. Then I unscrewed 3 of the injector nuts (the easy ones) and ran the starter to get the air out and the fuel to the injectors. It started running on the remaining cylinders and I shut it of, tightened the injector nuts and started it up. It has about 15 psi fuel pressure at idle and 10 psi at wide open throttle. There's still no squeal anymore and it's looking good. I will see if autozone will clear the code and then see if it comes back.

 

The check engine light just came back - about 6 short drives later. The grinding noise on starting happened again too and it's probably related. After the noise happened, I heard the lift pump run for about 15 seconds. Maybe the injector pump isn't holding a prime and so it's not lubricated and the starter can't force it (if the starter runs it at all)? Or maybe the lift pump was running and thus there were not enough amps to turn the engine?

I didn't check if it's the same code yet, but I have some clarification on the previous code. The test device says it's an injection timing circuit malfunction. Is the timing circuit within the injector pump? I will call the shop tomorrow that recently replaced both pumps and ask them what this error is about.

 

P2016 means a dead injector pump. If you clear the code and it comes back - it again means that the injector pump is dead. People here are not misleading you.

When you cracked the fuel lines at the injectors - what happened? Did you have fuel spraying out?

You may as well go ahead and buy yourself an OBDII scanner or Smarty - your going to need it with a VP-44 truck.

 

what kind of warranty did the pump shop provide? i would think they'd take care of a bad pump if it was a recent repair...