I've been having trouble with my clutch for the last few weeks, and it's getting progressively worse. I noticed it had been getting harder to shift into gear. About a week and a half ago, I put my truck in reverse, and as I let the clutch out, felt/heard kind of a popping noise. When I pushed in the clutch to stop, the truck kept backing up. With the clutch and brakes depressed, the truck stopped, and the clutch released. Sometimes everything works fine, but most of the time, it's hard to get in gear, and sometimes will only go after matching rpm's. Yesterday at lunch, and today on my way home, the transmission would not go into gear at all. If I put pressure on the shifter, the truck starts to roll, but I can't get it in gear. Yesterday, it finally went into first (I usually start in second), and was 'ok' from there. Today, I had to shut the truck off, put it in second, start, get rolling, and then it was 'ok'. The clutch is also getting jerky as I let it out. Occasionally when coming to a stop, it truck tries to keep pulling with the clutch in, the truck starts shaking a little, then it's like the clutch releases, and it's fine (similar to the reverse issue I had). So...does this sound like hydraulic system, pilot bearing, or clutch? The transmission is only about a year and a half old. I can see fluid on the hose coming out of the master cylinder, but the fluid level is fine, and I have good pedal feel. I've also not heard any noise from the pilot bearing, but as small as it is, I'm not sure I would. Any ideas?
The hydraulic system seems to be a quick job, but $$, the pilot bearing seems cheap, but time intensive. I can live with either one, but would rather get it right the first time, so it's not expensive and time intensive. Thanks for any advice...

 

it sure sounds like the master/slave setup...but i don't want to tell you wrong. hopefully someone can help you out a little more than this.

 

I agree with Plumb, happened to my truck. If it won't go in gear, try pumping the clutch several times in a row. For some reason on my truck when the master/slave started to act up, not go in gear, if I pumped it several times it would work again. Have had it grab and hold to, not come out of gear and have to shut truck off, pump pedal to get out of gear cause bound up, then continue on.

I suggest the Southbend Clutch setup, they said it was no different than stocker when I was price checking, but the slave cylinder is way more beefy, the whole setup looks 10 times better than the stock unit.

 

Sounds like a possible problem with the clutch disc itself also - maybe coming apart and wedging between the pressure plate and flywheel.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try to call around tomorrow and price a new master/slave setup. If it's worth anything, the air temp dropped about 20 degrees the last two days, and my clutch has been working much better, probably just a coincidence.

 

Thats my thought also. esp with the popping noise heard along with good pedal feel.

 

You are on the right track. Always always check the easy stuff first. I like the one piece master and slave from the dealer. When you did your tranny did you do the clutch at the same time? The part that seems to go south the fastest in our trucks is the throwout bearing. When it goes, it wears down the the fingers on the clutch and they start to bend back when you apply the clutch.

 

The clutch coming apart seems possible, I didn't replace it with the transmission, and don't know how many miles it has on it. The problem seems intermittent, worse when it's warm, and rarely goes away all together. I originally thought it was the master/slave setup, but starting to doubt it. Is there any way to test the master/slave? My biggest reason to doubt that as the problem is the fact that I always have good pedal feel. I did notice a slight squeak occasionally when releasing the pedal. I've tried pumping the pedal, and that doesn't seem to make much if any difference. I've had throwout bearings go bad before on a linkage setup and got chatter and a pulsing pedal, so far I don't have those symptoms on this one.

 

You say its worse when its warm? That to me points to the possibility that the fingers on your clutch are worn real thin. So, when its warm they get hotter and bend back more. The throwout bearing could be still turning but getting a little sluggish and adding to the heat buildup and wear on the clutch fingers. I wish I had taken a picture of my old clutch when I took it out you would see in a heartbeat what I am talking about. Normally the fingers are stiff and do not bend, but with wear they get real thin and can bend back.

 

If you need a master/slave, look at some aftermarket parts ie Southbend. (Unless you're going to stay stock.)

 

This could be hydraulics like noted, but also could be a bad disc (warped, broken), dragging pilot bearing, or disc stuck on the transmission input shaft. If it sticks it will drag, rather than floating away from contact.

I'm not entirely sure off the top of my head, but I think your clutch (like mine) has an internal throwout fork. This makes it difficult to diagnose. If the slave cylinder leaks, you'd lose fluid, but if the master leaks, the fork will settle. But it might be quite difficult to get a look at the fork.

However, most hydraulic actuators use "u-cup" seals. U-cup seals usually leak worse with minimal fluid pressure. This is why you can pump your brakes and have them grab without the pedal dropping on a worn brake cylinder, but if you push gently, the pedal drops to the floor.

So in theory, you might be able to push gently on the pedal and have it sink to the floor. If you can get it to do that, it's a bad master cylinder. I'm going to guess, it's hard parts in the clutch, though.

I just had this problem with mine. I figure I'm somewhere near 400hp, and at 350 (before the chip) I was fine on a stock clutch (13") but when I added the chip, the clutch didn't slip, it warped the friction lining backing badly making the clutch drag.

The stock disc hub had a sheet metal ring riveted to it, that the friction lining was riveted to. This is the weak part that warps. My Valair wasn't really that much different except that the hub extended all the way to the perimeter of the friction lining, eliminating the cheezy sheet metal.

 

Scrambler 250, Did you figure out the problem? What was it?

 

Bump, having the exact same problem.

 

Haven't done anything yet. Driving is still tolerable, and it'll be another few weeks before I'll have time to pull the transmission out. I'll post an update as soon as I find out anything. Thanks for all the suggestions, I've got some ideas of things to look for now

 

my clutch just went out last month. my problem was the clutch pad itself blew up. it broke apart in the center where the transmission shaft slides through the clutch pad. there is plastic around that part and the springs around the center of the cluch all broke and blew out. still had plenty of life on the clutch pad itself. i didnt have the money to buy a southbend so had to go with another stock unit. my trucks pretty close to stock, but it blew my mind in how they manufacture that crap!! i was crusing about 60 to 65mph and it made a soft bang. couldnt go anywhere in any gear.