Long story short: clutch hydraulics failed, sourced replacement slave and master in BFEast Texas, Air trapped in system.

i have some pedal, but not what it should be. retro spec shows i should have bought complete assy from dealer after looking on here, but i have what i have...

instructions show final bleeding procedure after installation:

1. locate attachment point of master cylinder pushrod on clutch pedal. remove pushrod from clutch pedal. remove neutral safety switch from pushrod.

2. locate master cylinder piston circlip (near where pushrod snaps into master cylinder). remove circlip.

3. using pushrod, carefully pull master cylinder piston out of master cylinder body until brake fluid weeps from around master cylinder piston.

4. push master cylinder piston back into the body and reassemble. pedal should be come firmer after several pumps...

 

bump......

 

this might help you out...http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/c...tch%20-Hyd.htm

 

so i got the thing bled without having to completely remove the system from the truck...

for those that run across this in the future here is what i did and my thoughts on why it works....

1. ensure there is no air trapped between the slave cylinder and the reservoir. this is accomplished by removing the cap from the reservoir. next remove the slave cylinder from the transmission. be careful that the slave cylinder pushrod does not come out of the slave cylinder. slowly compress and extend the pushrod several times until no air comes up through the reservoir.

2. when there is no more air bubbles, carefully reinstall the slave cylinder and reinstall the reservoir cap. ensure there is sufficient fluid in the reservoir.

3.disconnect the neutral safety switch from the master cylinder push rod.

4. disconnect the push rod from the clutch pedal.

5. remove nuts attaching master cylinder to the firewall.

6. remove screws attaching reservoir to the firewall.

7. pull master cylinder and pushrod out of the firewall. position the master cylinder so the pushrod is at the top. ensure reservoir is below the master cylinder. this was slightly difficult for me since i never anticipated having to do this when i installed the gauges and tuners

8. remove the c-clip from the master cylinder which holds the push rod piston in. be careful not to let this thing fly...

9. carefully pull the piston out of the master cylinder. do not pull the piston completely out.

10. with a syringe, dropper would probably work to, fill the master cylinder with break fluid.

11. re-assemble master cylinder and re install all components. you should be good to go...

i think the reason this works is that the piston has two seals on it as seen below. with the pedal in its static state, the seal on the far left allows fluid to move from the reservoir to the slave cylinder only. once the pedal is depressed (even slightly) the reservoir is sealed off and the fluid is only allowed to flow from the master to the slave. therefore, once you ensure there is no air between the slave and the reservoir, you can remove the piston and risk no chance of air getting into that line due to the air naturally wanting to move up and fluid down.

any questions???

 

I realize individual parts are cheaper than buying the entire setup from dodge.

I changed mine out in March. Mine came out in one piece. What I put back in from dodge, was in two parts. It had a quick connect fitting in the line below the reservoir to the hydraulic piston at the bellhousing. I was afraid, I to would get air when I put it together. Not so. Worked great. One hour to install. $ 186.00.

Dave

 

well... i have heard varying stories on the price of the complete setup from the dealer, but they range from a low of $186 (you) to a high of $300. both parts separate on mine were in the neighborhood of $200. Even if it would have cost me $300 for the setup from Dodge, it would have been worth the week of headache and dealing with a soft pedal that disengaged/engaged a half inch from the floor.

all in all, if you know about the bleeding before you buy replacement parts or if you have the luxury of being able to get the complete assy, buy the complete unit. If you dont have that luxury (i didnt know and dodge wasnt open on saturday where i was), there are other options...

 

I think my FSM says that clutch hydraulics are not reparable and to be replaced as an assembly.
Not to say of course that one could rebuild them, it is exactly that, how to get the parts.

 

You could also get the hydraulic upgrade from south bend for around $300.

 

Does it have a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder? It's pretty sad that the factory can't put one on. Just about every hydraulic clutch since the beginning of time has one.

 

For those who are just running into this issue I suggest the following be done FIRST:

Get the complete Master/Slave cylinder assembly from Dodge. They are a closed system that comes with fluid and does not need bleeding. You install each part separately and then use their unique coupler to snap both pieces together. NO bleeding involved at all. I know some may already have bought one part of the system or the other already, but if you haven't opened them, then I'd suggest taking them back and doing it right.