I finally got off my lazy butt and went outside and inspected my pads. Sure enough, they are shot. So I have 2 questions for you geniuses. What type of brake pads should I get (these lasted me roughly 30K) and how do I pull the caliper off? I tried pulling the caliper off once before and could never get it off of the bracket. I've been told to bend the little metal clips out of the way and the caliper should come out. Well that didn't work. And I don't feel like paying someone like $100 to change my pads when I can do it myself (I've done 3 different sets on my parents cars). Thanks for the help yall.

 

Well I replaced the pads on my old 98 12v'er. Wasn't too hard. But I made the mistake of disconnecting the brake line from the caliper . I had to bleed the brakes to get everyting back and braking right. If you do figure out to get the calipers off, don't let them dangle down via the brake line, use a coat hanger to hang them. When you find some pads let me know and I'll give you a hand.

Hunter

 

Performance Friction pads are good, as well as Napa Ceramix pads. The PF pads, if purchased from Auto Zone, have a lifetime warranty.
The caliper should have two 3/8 Allen head bolts going into the steering knuckle from the rear. you just back those out, compress the caliper a little (compress it all the way while you are there), and the caliper will practically fall off.

In the pic below, the red lines point to the 2 Allen head bolts. The top one is behind the bleeder screw in this pic. The blue line point to where you want to insert your large screwdriver, between the pad and the caliper, to pry the caliper a little to compress the piston. You can also, maybe, get in between the piston and pad where the yellow line is pointing. Once you get it started, from either location, you can put your pry bar between the pad and the disk to finish compressing. Pry with the point of the tool bearing on the pad unless you plan to turn the rotors, then it doesn't matter.

Chris

 

This pic shows the caliper mounting location from the back. The red lines point to the caliper bolt holes.

Chris

 

Thanks for the pics and help. Hunter, I'd take you up on that offer, but I already promised the girlfriend I would teach her how to do it.

 

Stamey,

Great pics. And very good info for someone who does not have a 2001 4x4.

Changing brake pads has never been a problem for me in the past. I have changed pads, and drum brakes many, many times.

BUTTTTT, I could not for the life of me figure out my buddies 2001 4x4. Why must it be so complicated. I consider myself mechanically inclined, and I could not figure it out without breaking something. The haynes manual showed nothing. He ended up taking it to the dealer.

I was very angry with myself. I couldnt believe that some freaking front brake pads stopped me dead in my tracks.





Now I have a 2001 4x4, and I need to know how to git'er done. I can get the caliper off, I just cant get the pads out. Maybe a good sledge, bailing wire, and some duct tape might be in order. lol

Good pics Stamey. But Blue and I are still in the dark.

 

The 2001's are THAT different? I'm gonna have to find one and see what's up. Never seen a caliper I couldn't work on.
I think I know a guy who has one. I'll call him and see if I can check out his truck. If so, pics to follow.

Chris

 

Thats what I thought too. I felt so stupid when I had to tell my buddy, who trusted me to get it done, to go get someone else to do it.

I know there has to be some trick to it. The pads look as if they are top loading. They have these little metal clips that look as if they dont belong there. If the clips werent there, I think the pads would slide out. I hate to tear them up, and then nothing goes back together right.

Stamey, your calipers come off, and the pads are "underneath" the caliper. The 2001 is definately different.

 

Put a screwdriver under the edge of the clips and they will slide out.

FWIW: My origional pads lasted 90K and were not completey worn out. The second set was Auto Zone's best pads and they went about 30K. They were nowhere near worn out and had about 1/3 of the pad left. I went back with Auto Zone because of the Lifetime Warrenty.

CR

 

I'm workin on this. It's a mission now. I stopped one guy on the street today to get a look under his truck, but it was a 2000. I talked to a buddie who said he thinks there is one bolt on the bottom and the caliper swings up, on a stud at the top.
I WILL get to the bottom of this.

Chris

 

Haha. please do Stamey, cuz I think its gettin time to change mine out. Never done it on a 2001, just the '98. Keep us posted.

Hunter

 

You actually stood by the street waiting for a 2001ish looking truck to come by so you could try to stop him AND crawl under his truck...... Now that is dedication to the cause! Sounds like something I'd do....Might have to pull off my wheels this weekend to take a looksee. Although still running the stock pads after 72K on them and they still look to be in great shape...maybe i should try using that middle pedal sometime and see if they wear.

 

The 2001's are different than the previous years. Much larger pads. I'll try to see if I can find some pics to post.

 

Remove the two torx bolts that attach the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. Slightly compress the pads. Tilt the top of the caliper off of the mount, support and set aside. Remove the anti-rattle springs and remove pads.

 

94-2002 looks identical, as far as I know. I actually saw this truck driving behind me, after doing some "manuevers" to get a look at the side of the truck to verify it was a 2500 CTD, or at least a 2500, I waved at him when he went by, but he didn't get the signal. I then followed the driver to where he stopped, and talked to him. Bet he thought I was some kind of freak, diesel junkie (he don't know how right first inpressions can be). Turned out it was a 2000, and since I don't know when the change occurred, I didn't look at his.
I may have gotten a new DTR member out of it though.

Chris