Ball Joints or Axle?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Ball Joints or Axle?
So, I'm pretty sure I know why my truck wants to pull to the right.....My camber is off a little on the left hand drivers side of the truck.....When I look at it from the front I can actually tell that there is slightly more of an angle on the driver side tire....It happened a while back cause I accidentally ran over a curb on the left side.....it's not a terrible pull, but just annoying...
My question is if the camber is off did I more than likely bend my axle or is it possible that one of my upper or lower ball joints got messed up when the tire hit the curb? Could it possibly fix the problem if I just replaced the ball joints?
My question is if the camber is off did I more than likely bend my axle or is it possible that one of my upper or lower ball joints got messed up when the tire hit the curb? Could it possibly fix the problem if I just replaced the ball joints?
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Blowing Rock,NC
I would check my tie rods and upper and lower joints. It's possible that you hit somthing and caused damage or it's possible the parts just wore. We just did a 99 truck that the passenger side ball joints were basiclly gone, and it's probably the 4'th ball joint job this month, All of which on the verge of falling out.
If you still cant find a cause stop by a good alignment shop and have them put it on the rack, they'll find anything out of spec.
Your axle has no effect on camber, You might also check you wheel hub.
and make sure you have it aligned when your done!
If you still cant find a cause stop by a good alignment shop and have them put it on the rack, they'll find anything out of spec.
Your axle has no effect on camber, You might also check you wheel hub.
and make sure you have it aligned when your done!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
I would check my tie rods and upper and lower joints. It's possible that you hit somthing and caused damage or it's possible the parts just wore. We just did a 99 truck that the passenger side ball joints were basiclly gone, and it's probably the 4'th ball joint job this month, All of which on the verge of falling out.
If you still cant find a cause stop by a good alignment shop and have them put it on the rack, they'll find anything out of spec.
Your axle has no effect on camber, You might also check you wheel hub.
and make sure you have it aligned when your done!
If you still cant find a cause stop by a good alignment shop and have them put it on the rack, they'll find anything out of spec.
Your axle has no effect on camber, You might also check you wheel hub.
and make sure you have it aligned when your done!
well...the problem is that i've already had an alignment done on it 2 times.....this truck has very low miles on it and none of the front end is anywhere near being worn out....
last time i had an alignment done on it they were able to get everything into spec & they mentioned that the camber was slightly off on the drivers side....i know how the camber got out of whack because i hit a curb....
i'm just wondering how do i get the camber back into spec now that it's out.....i don't know if it's a damaged ball joint when i hit the curb or if i have bent something?
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Blowing Rock,NC
If you go to an alignment shop, and they cant explain why your camber is out, it's time to find a new alignment shop. We dont do alignments in house and I've never had them come back with issues. Now our guys use a pretty high dollar bosch rack but still.
Perform an alignment on the vehicle. If necessary, refer to the manufacture of your dealerships equipment for proper operation ot your alignment equipment. For information regarding alignment procedures and specifications, refer to the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual, Group 2. Please document all alignment angles before changing any angle, after adjustments have been made, and after performing a road test.
NOTE :ANY NON-FACTORY INSTALLED EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE REMOVED IF AT ALL POSSIBLE (E.G SNOW PLOW, TOOL BOXES THAT CAN BE EASILY REMOVED, ETC.), COSMETIC ACCESSORIES CAN REMAIN ON VEHICLE (E.G. BUG DEFLECTORS, RUNNING BOARDS, ETC.). AFTERMARKET WHEEL AND TIRE ASSEMBLIES, LIFT KITS, AND OTHER NON-AUTHORIZED SUSPENSION ALTERING COMPONENTS MUST BE REMOVED. FACTORY AUTHORIZED SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, WHEELS, AND TIRES SHOULD BE INSTALLED PRIOR TO PREFORMING ANY ALIGNMENT CHECKS.
1. If the alignment angles are within specifications, continue to step 7, if not, continue to the next step (step 2).
2. CORRECTING THRUST ANGLE
a) If thrust angle is incorrect, raise the vehicle on an appropriate frame support style lift (rear axle must be allowed to extend fully).
b) Support the axle to remove all weight from springs and yet not support any weight of the vehicle.
c) Inspect the part number of both leaf springs. If both springs have the same part number, proceed to the next step. If the part numbers are different from side to side, then having springs of different lengths could cause incorrect thrust angle. Verify that the springs are of the same length by measuring the springs from the front spring eye to the rear spring eye (service part numbers may have different part numbers then production part numbers). If springs are of different lengths, install the correct springs and recheck thrust angle. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for information regarding rear spring service.
d) Loosen the nuts from the spring clamp bolts that attach the spring to the axle (Figure 3).
e) Using a prybar, reposition the rear axle to obtain a 0.0°+/- 0.2°of thrust angle.
NOTE :MAKE SURE THE LEAF SPRING CENTERBOLT IS BEING LOCATED EN THE ALIGNMENT HOLE IN THE SPRING SPACER SEAT, NOT EN THE VOID OF THE SPRING SEAT.
f) Tighten the spring clamp nuts until they force the plate flush against the axle tube.
g) Remove axle supports and lower the vehicle so that the tires support the weight of the vehicle.
h) Tighten the spring clamp retaining nuts.
CAUTION
O NOT OVER TORQUE THE SPRING CLAMP RETAINING NUTS. EXCEEDING THE TORQUE SPECIFICATION WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SPRING CLAMP BOLTS
i) Verify rear thrust angle. Repeat steps a through i until rear thrust angle is within specifications.
3. CORRECTING FOR REAR CAMBER OR TOE
a) If rear toe and/or camber are out of specifications, but thrust angle is within specifications, replace the rear axle assembly. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for information regarding rear differential service.
4. CORRECTING FOR FRONT CASTER/CAMBER
Independent Front Suspension
a) If caster or camber require adjustment, move the pivot bar located on the top of the upper suspension arm (Figure 4). Refer to the appropriate Dodge Ram Truck Service Manual, Group 02 for proper alignment procedures.
Link/Coil Suspension
NOTE :IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH A DANA 44 FRONT AXLE (ALL 1500 SERIES 4X4), CASTER AND TOE ARE THE ONLY FRONT ALIGNMENT ANGLES THAT CAN BE ALTERED. VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A DANA 60 FRONT AXLE (8800 LB. GVW 2500 SERIES 4X4 AND 3500 SERIES 4X4) OR VEHICLES THAT HAVE A SOLID FRONT AXLE (3500 4X2 CAB CHASSIS) ARE CAPABLE OF HAVING CASTER, CAMBER, AND TOE ALTERED. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE DODGE RAM SERVICE MANUAL, GROUP 02 FOR PROPER ALIGNMENT PROCEDURES.
Caster Adjustments
i) To adjust caster, loosen both right and left cam adjusters, located on the front section of the lower suspension arm (Figure 5).
NOTE :BOTH CAM ADJUSTERS SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO MOVE FREELY.
ii) Rock the cam adjuster bolt back and forth until the cam adjuster finds its neutral or unloaded position. This will allow both right and left lower suspension arm bushings to be equally loaded.
iii) Adjust both cams evenly until the correct caster angle has been achieved. Refer to the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual, Group 02 for proper alignment procedures.
iv) The tires must support the vehicle weight before the cam bolts are tightened. Tighten the nuts of the cam bolts to 129 N.m (95 ft. lbs.) of torque.
Camber And Cross Caster Adjustments (Dana 60 Front Axle And Solid Front Axle Only)
i) Loosen both right and left cam adjusters, located on the front section of the lower suspension arm (Figure 5).
NOTE :BOTH CAM ADJUSTERS SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO MOVE FREELY.
ii) Rock the cam adjuster bolt back and forth until the cam adjuster finds its neutral or unloaded position. This will allow both right and left lower suspension arm bushings to be equally loaded.
iii) Tighten the nuts to the cam bolt only tight enough so that the cam bolts do not move.
iv) Lower the vehicle so that the tires support the weight of the vehicle. Tighten the nuts of the cam bolts to 129 N.m (95 ft. lbs.) of torque.
v) Now, front camber and/or cross caster/cross camber can be altered by installing offset upper ball joint sleeves. The tollowing sleeves are available from Mopar.
04886060AA 0.25°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886061AA 0.50°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886062AA 0.75°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886063AA 1.00°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
The sleeve can be rotated a total of eight different positions to be able to increase or decrease caster and/or camber.
NOTE :THE OFFSET BALL JOINT SLEEVES SHOULD ONLY BE USED TO CORRECT FOR A CAMBER OR CROSS CASTER ADJUSTMENT. ONCE CAMBER AND CROSS CASTER ARE CORRECT, CONTINUE BY USING THE LOWER SUSPENSION ARM CAM ADJUSTERS TO ACHIEVE THE PREFERRED CASTER SETTINGS.
vi) Before the sleeve can be installed, an alignment check must be performed with the caster cam adjusters in the equally loaded position.
Record your readings.
Left Caster ___________ Right Caster ___________
Left Camber_________ Right Camber__________
vii) To remove the original upper ball joint sleeve, raise the vehicle on an appropriate lift that will allow the suspension to be unloaded.
viii) Remove the tire/wheel assembly.
ix) Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin.
x) Remove the upper ball joint nut.
xi) Use a hammer and chisel to drive the original ball joint sleeve from the axle tube yoke.
CAUTION :TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE AXLE TUBE YOKE OR BALL JOINT, PLACE THE CHISEL ON THE UPPER LIP OF THE SLEEVE ONLY DURING REMOVAL.
WARNING :ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE EYE PROTECTION WHEN PERFORMING THE BALL JOINT SLEEVE REMOVAL PROCEDURE.
xii) Choose the appropriate offset upper ball joint sleeve based upon the camber and caster values recorded in step vi.
xiii) After positioning the sleeve into the axle tube yoke, install the ball joint nut and tighten the upper ball joint nut to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) of torque. Then, advance the nut to the next slot to line up with the hole in the ball joint stud. Install the cotter pin.
xiv) Verify that the ball joint does not bind during a turn. Remove the steering linkage from the steering knuckle arms. Using a spring scale at the steering knuckle arm tie rod attachment hole, check the amount of force required to turn the steering knuckle. Ball joints are considered binding if the force required to turn the steering knuckle exceeds 25 pounds. If the force is below 25 pounds, proceed to step xxviii. If ball joint binding is noticed, the upper and lower ball joints will have to be aligned properly. Remove the caliper assembly and the ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) (if equipped).
xv) Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
xvi) Remove the axle shaft.
CAUTION :CAREFULLY REMOVE THE AXLE SHAFT. DAMAGE TO THE AXLE SHAFT SEAL COULD RESULT IF THE SPLINES ARE ALLOWED TO TOUCH THE SEAL.
xvii) Remove the upper ball joint nut.
xviii) Remove the lower ball joint nut.
xix) Remove the knuckle assembly from the axle yoke and move the ball joint stud to ensure that the ball joint is free in the socket. If the ball is not free, work the stud around in the socket to lubricate and free the ball.
xx) Install the knuckle assembly into the axle yoke.
xxi) Lubricate the threads with a penetrating oil such as Mopar General Purpose Lube, p/n 04544926, and install the lower ball joint nut finger tight.
xxii) Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxiii) Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) of torque, then advance the nut to the next slot to line up with the hole in the ball joint stud. Install the cotter pin.
xxiv) Re-tighten the lower ball joint nut to 190-217 N.m (140-160 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxv) Install the axle shaft and verify that the lubricant in the front differential is at the proper level.
xxvi) Install the hub and rotor assembly. Tighten the bolts to 170 N.m (125 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxvii) Install the brake caliper and the WSS.
xxviii) Connect the steering linkage at the steering knuckle arms. Tighten the tie rod nut to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxix) Install the tire/wheel assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to the sequence and torque specified in the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual, Group 22.
xxx) Verify that camber and caster is now within specifications, it not within specification, repeat steps vi through xxx until camber and caster are within specifications.
5. CORRECTING FOR TOE
To set toe, use the procedures outlined in the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual Group 02.
CAUTION :ON 4X4 VEHICLES, IT IS CRITICAL TO POSITION TIE ROD ADJUSTING SLEEVE SO THAT THE TIE ROD CLAMP DOES NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE STEERING DAMPENER DURING JOUNCE AND REBOUND. POSITION THE CLAMP BOLTS IN LINE WITH THE CLAMP LOCKING ARM.
6. Record the alignment angles after all adjustments have been corrected.
7. Road Test the vehicle tor the condition described by the customer. The initial test should be performed on a smooth highway, free of road crown, ruts, speed bumps, or pot holes.
^ Drive the vehicle at highway speeds, preferably without cross wind conditions.
^ If cross wind conditions are prevalent, drive the vehicle in both directions to the cross wind.
Decel the vehicle from highway speeds without applying the brakes.
Record any drift condition noticed.
^ Identify whether the vehicle drifts while holding the steering wheel or does it drift only after the steering wheel is allowed to move freely.
B. If the vehicle drifts with the steering wheel remaining stationary, re-perform the Alignment Evaluation, record your readings, and proceed to the next step. If the vehicle did not drift, proceed to step 11.
9. If the alignment angles were changed (after performing road test) from the previously recorded readings (after correcting alignment angles), re-inspect suspension and steering components for wear or damage. Also, verify that all suspension and steering components are secured and their fasteners are tightened properly.
10, If alignment values have not changed, verify that the tires are not causing the drift condition. This can be accomplished by cross switching the front tires and performing the road test again. If the drift changes direction, rotate the tires front to rear then, continue to step 11.
11. (Road Test Evaluation cont.) Next, perform several brake applications from speeds greater then 50 mph to a complete stop. This portion of the road test should be performed on several different types of road surfaces.
^ First series of brake applications should be a normal type of brake application (similar to the way you would come to a stop at a stop sign).
^ Second series of brake applications should be a hard braking application but, try not to activate ABS.
Record what happens to the vehicle during each series of brake applications.
12. If the vehicle did drift but the steering wheel DID NOT remain stationary, re-perform the Brake Evaluation. It the vehicle did drift with the steering wheel remaining stationary, and the vehicle is a 4X4, perform the following Repair Procedure. If the drift condition has been resolved, return the vehicle to the customer.
Perform an alignment on the vehicle. If necessary, refer to the manufacture of your dealerships equipment for proper operation ot your alignment equipment. For information regarding alignment procedures and specifications, refer to the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual, Group 2. Please document all alignment angles before changing any angle, after adjustments have been made, and after performing a road test.
NOTE :ANY NON-FACTORY INSTALLED EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE REMOVED IF AT ALL POSSIBLE (E.G SNOW PLOW, TOOL BOXES THAT CAN BE EASILY REMOVED, ETC.), COSMETIC ACCESSORIES CAN REMAIN ON VEHICLE (E.G. BUG DEFLECTORS, RUNNING BOARDS, ETC.). AFTERMARKET WHEEL AND TIRE ASSEMBLIES, LIFT KITS, AND OTHER NON-AUTHORIZED SUSPENSION ALTERING COMPONENTS MUST BE REMOVED. FACTORY AUTHORIZED SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, WHEELS, AND TIRES SHOULD BE INSTALLED PRIOR TO PREFORMING ANY ALIGNMENT CHECKS.
1. If the alignment angles are within specifications, continue to step 7, if not, continue to the next step (step 2).
2. CORRECTING THRUST ANGLE
a) If thrust angle is incorrect, raise the vehicle on an appropriate frame support style lift (rear axle must be allowed to extend fully).
b) Support the axle to remove all weight from springs and yet not support any weight of the vehicle.
c) Inspect the part number of both leaf springs. If both springs have the same part number, proceed to the next step. If the part numbers are different from side to side, then having springs of different lengths could cause incorrect thrust angle. Verify that the springs are of the same length by measuring the springs from the front spring eye to the rear spring eye (service part numbers may have different part numbers then production part numbers). If springs are of different lengths, install the correct springs and recheck thrust angle. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for information regarding rear spring service.
d) Loosen the nuts from the spring clamp bolts that attach the spring to the axle (Figure 3).
e) Using a prybar, reposition the rear axle to obtain a 0.0°+/- 0.2°of thrust angle.
NOTE :MAKE SURE THE LEAF SPRING CENTERBOLT IS BEING LOCATED EN THE ALIGNMENT HOLE IN THE SPRING SPACER SEAT, NOT EN THE VOID OF THE SPRING SEAT.
f) Tighten the spring clamp nuts until they force the plate flush against the axle tube.
g) Remove axle supports and lower the vehicle so that the tires support the weight of the vehicle.
h) Tighten the spring clamp retaining nuts.
CAUTION
O NOT OVER TORQUE THE SPRING CLAMP RETAINING NUTS. EXCEEDING THE TORQUE SPECIFICATION WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SPRING CLAMP BOLTSi) Verify rear thrust angle. Repeat steps a through i until rear thrust angle is within specifications.
3. CORRECTING FOR REAR CAMBER OR TOE
a) If rear toe and/or camber are out of specifications, but thrust angle is within specifications, replace the rear axle assembly. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for information regarding rear differential service.
4. CORRECTING FOR FRONT CASTER/CAMBER
Independent Front Suspension
a) If caster or camber require adjustment, move the pivot bar located on the top of the upper suspension arm (Figure 4). Refer to the appropriate Dodge Ram Truck Service Manual, Group 02 for proper alignment procedures.
Link/Coil Suspension
NOTE :IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH A DANA 44 FRONT AXLE (ALL 1500 SERIES 4X4), CASTER AND TOE ARE THE ONLY FRONT ALIGNMENT ANGLES THAT CAN BE ALTERED. VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A DANA 60 FRONT AXLE (8800 LB. GVW 2500 SERIES 4X4 AND 3500 SERIES 4X4) OR VEHICLES THAT HAVE A SOLID FRONT AXLE (3500 4X2 CAB CHASSIS) ARE CAPABLE OF HAVING CASTER, CAMBER, AND TOE ALTERED. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE DODGE RAM SERVICE MANUAL, GROUP 02 FOR PROPER ALIGNMENT PROCEDURES.
Caster Adjustments
i) To adjust caster, loosen both right and left cam adjusters, located on the front section of the lower suspension arm (Figure 5).
NOTE :BOTH CAM ADJUSTERS SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO MOVE FREELY.
ii) Rock the cam adjuster bolt back and forth until the cam adjuster finds its neutral or unloaded position. This will allow both right and left lower suspension arm bushings to be equally loaded.
iii) Adjust both cams evenly until the correct caster angle has been achieved. Refer to the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual, Group 02 for proper alignment procedures.
iv) The tires must support the vehicle weight before the cam bolts are tightened. Tighten the nuts of the cam bolts to 129 N.m (95 ft. lbs.) of torque.
Camber And Cross Caster Adjustments (Dana 60 Front Axle And Solid Front Axle Only)
i) Loosen both right and left cam adjusters, located on the front section of the lower suspension arm (Figure 5).
NOTE :BOTH CAM ADJUSTERS SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO MOVE FREELY.
ii) Rock the cam adjuster bolt back and forth until the cam adjuster finds its neutral or unloaded position. This will allow both right and left lower suspension arm bushings to be equally loaded.
iii) Tighten the nuts to the cam bolt only tight enough so that the cam bolts do not move.
iv) Lower the vehicle so that the tires support the weight of the vehicle. Tighten the nuts of the cam bolts to 129 N.m (95 ft. lbs.) of torque.
v) Now, front camber and/or cross caster/cross camber can be altered by installing offset upper ball joint sleeves. The tollowing sleeves are available from Mopar.
04886060AA 0.25°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886061AA 0.50°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886062AA 0.75°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
04886063AA 1.00°Offset Ball joint Sleeve
The sleeve can be rotated a total of eight different positions to be able to increase or decrease caster and/or camber.
NOTE :THE OFFSET BALL JOINT SLEEVES SHOULD ONLY BE USED TO CORRECT FOR A CAMBER OR CROSS CASTER ADJUSTMENT. ONCE CAMBER AND CROSS CASTER ARE CORRECT, CONTINUE BY USING THE LOWER SUSPENSION ARM CAM ADJUSTERS TO ACHIEVE THE PREFERRED CASTER SETTINGS.
vi) Before the sleeve can be installed, an alignment check must be performed with the caster cam adjusters in the equally loaded position.
Record your readings.
Left Caster ___________ Right Caster ___________
Left Camber_________ Right Camber__________
vii) To remove the original upper ball joint sleeve, raise the vehicle on an appropriate lift that will allow the suspension to be unloaded.
viii) Remove the tire/wheel assembly.
ix) Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin.
x) Remove the upper ball joint nut.
xi) Use a hammer and chisel to drive the original ball joint sleeve from the axle tube yoke.
CAUTION :TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE AXLE TUBE YOKE OR BALL JOINT, PLACE THE CHISEL ON THE UPPER LIP OF THE SLEEVE ONLY DURING REMOVAL.
WARNING :ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE EYE PROTECTION WHEN PERFORMING THE BALL JOINT SLEEVE REMOVAL PROCEDURE.
xii) Choose the appropriate offset upper ball joint sleeve based upon the camber and caster values recorded in step vi.
xiii) After positioning the sleeve into the axle tube yoke, install the ball joint nut and tighten the upper ball joint nut to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) of torque. Then, advance the nut to the next slot to line up with the hole in the ball joint stud. Install the cotter pin.
xiv) Verify that the ball joint does not bind during a turn. Remove the steering linkage from the steering knuckle arms. Using a spring scale at the steering knuckle arm tie rod attachment hole, check the amount of force required to turn the steering knuckle. Ball joints are considered binding if the force required to turn the steering knuckle exceeds 25 pounds. If the force is below 25 pounds, proceed to step xxviii. If ball joint binding is noticed, the upper and lower ball joints will have to be aligned properly. Remove the caliper assembly and the ABS Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) (if equipped).
xv) Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
xvi) Remove the axle shaft.
CAUTION :CAREFULLY REMOVE THE AXLE SHAFT. DAMAGE TO THE AXLE SHAFT SEAL COULD RESULT IF THE SPLINES ARE ALLOWED TO TOUCH THE SEAL.
xvii) Remove the upper ball joint nut.
xviii) Remove the lower ball joint nut.
xix) Remove the knuckle assembly from the axle yoke and move the ball joint stud to ensure that the ball joint is free in the socket. If the ball is not free, work the stud around in the socket to lubricate and free the ball.
xx) Install the knuckle assembly into the axle yoke.
xxi) Lubricate the threads with a penetrating oil such as Mopar General Purpose Lube, p/n 04544926, and install the lower ball joint nut finger tight.
xxii) Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 47.5 N.m (35 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxiii) Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) of torque, then advance the nut to the next slot to line up with the hole in the ball joint stud. Install the cotter pin.
xxiv) Re-tighten the lower ball joint nut to 190-217 N.m (140-160 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxv) Install the axle shaft and verify that the lubricant in the front differential is at the proper level.
xxvi) Install the hub and rotor assembly. Tighten the bolts to 170 N.m (125 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxvii) Install the brake caliper and the WSS.
xxviii) Connect the steering linkage at the steering knuckle arms. Tighten the tie rod nut to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.) of torque.
xxix) Install the tire/wheel assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to the sequence and torque specified in the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual, Group 22.
xxx) Verify that camber and caster is now within specifications, it not within specification, repeat steps vi through xxx until camber and caster are within specifications.
5. CORRECTING FOR TOE
To set toe, use the procedures outlined in the appropriate Dodge Ram Service Manual Group 02.
CAUTION :ON 4X4 VEHICLES, IT IS CRITICAL TO POSITION TIE ROD ADJUSTING SLEEVE SO THAT THE TIE ROD CLAMP DOES NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE STEERING DAMPENER DURING JOUNCE AND REBOUND. POSITION THE CLAMP BOLTS IN LINE WITH THE CLAMP LOCKING ARM.
6. Record the alignment angles after all adjustments have been corrected.
7. Road Test the vehicle tor the condition described by the customer. The initial test should be performed on a smooth highway, free of road crown, ruts, speed bumps, or pot holes.
^ Drive the vehicle at highway speeds, preferably without cross wind conditions.
^ If cross wind conditions are prevalent, drive the vehicle in both directions to the cross wind.
Decel the vehicle from highway speeds without applying the brakes.
Record any drift condition noticed.
^ Identify whether the vehicle drifts while holding the steering wheel or does it drift only after the steering wheel is allowed to move freely.
B. If the vehicle drifts with the steering wheel remaining stationary, re-perform the Alignment Evaluation, record your readings, and proceed to the next step. If the vehicle did not drift, proceed to step 11.
9. If the alignment angles were changed (after performing road test) from the previously recorded readings (after correcting alignment angles), re-inspect suspension and steering components for wear or damage. Also, verify that all suspension and steering components are secured and their fasteners are tightened properly.
10, If alignment values have not changed, verify that the tires are not causing the drift condition. This can be accomplished by cross switching the front tires and performing the road test again. If the drift changes direction, rotate the tires front to rear then, continue to step 11.
11. (Road Test Evaluation cont.) Next, perform several brake applications from speeds greater then 50 mph to a complete stop. This portion of the road test should be performed on several different types of road surfaces.
^ First series of brake applications should be a normal type of brake application (similar to the way you would come to a stop at a stop sign).
^ Second series of brake applications should be a hard braking application but, try not to activate ABS.
Record what happens to the vehicle during each series of brake applications.
12. If the vehicle did drift but the steering wheel DID NOT remain stationary, re-perform the Brake Evaluation. It the vehicle did drift with the steering wheel remaining stationary, and the vehicle is a 4X4, perform the following Repair Procedure. If the drift condition has been resolved, return the vehicle to the customer.
Trending Topics
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Blowing Rock,NC
well...the problem is that i've already had an alignment done on it 2 times.....this truck has very low miles on it and none of the front end is anywhere near being worn out....
last time i had an alignment done on it they were able to get everything into spec & they mentioned that the camber was slightly off on the drivers side....i know how the camber got out of whack because i hit a curb....
i'm just wondering how do i get the camber back into spec now that it's out.....i don't know if it's a damaged ball joint when i hit the curb or if i have bent something?
last time i had an alignment done on it they were able to get everything into spec & they mentioned that the camber was slightly off on the drivers side....i know how the camber got out of whack because i hit a curb....
i'm just wondering how do i get the camber back into spec now that it's out.....i don't know if it's a damaged ball joint when i hit the curb or if i have bent something?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
The highlighted area is what confuses me? How have you verified that there is no worn parts in the front end? Low mileage has little to do with ball joints in these trucks, Tire size, Lifts, Aggressive or off road driving all contribute to the wear of the ball joint, but the ball joint was a weak spot in the first place, It didnt take high mileage to require a replacement. Maybe I should take this a step further there is no mileage spec on replacement it's a spec test, if it's out it gets a customer recommendation to be replaced. More Miles the more worn it will be of course. I would really consider looking at my wheel hubs. And I honestly doubt your situation has anything to do with hitting the curb, Unless you NAILED the curb and failed to climb up on it. If you did nail the curb hard or hit it at a funny angle you would see primarily steering part's bent or damaged, possibly a ball joint. But in general damage caused by a impact or collision of some sort looks for the weakest link. Breaking a knuckle (I've seen it) would be a very rare type of failure and most likely you would know if the knuckle or axle tube was damaged.
truck has a good 3rd gen track bar & i don't have any problems with wandering steering or anything....it's just that it wants to constantly drift to the right slightly....it drifts worse when there is a crown....
the whole drifting to the right problem started after the curb incident.....it was hit at an angle....
i will check on the wheel hubs like you mentioned....
The printout I got from my last alignment says that my left camber is 0.4 & right camber was 0.2....that is really the only thing that seems to be off....
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
i haven't checked for any brake problems yet....i will definitely check though....what's the best way to do this....i'm not too familiar with the brakes on these trucks, but I plan to soon when I replace the front ones.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 599
Likes: 0
Another thing that can cause this is a bad seal in the steering box. A simple check for this is to start the truck and see if the steering wheel turns slightly when you start it. Sometimes a bad seal will make it turn slightly when you step on the brakes because the brake assist is driven by the same pump.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
From: Roseburg Oregon
40k miles on your truck only I would think your front pads were still good. I dont think you do any heavy towing. at 175k miles I have replaced mine 2 times and so far the last set EBC pads I have a year on them and they dont even look like they have been used.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
I took a few photos of my drivers side front axle & the hub & i was hoping you guys might be able to take a look at it and see if you notice what the problem might be that's causing the camber to be off slightly........when i look at it i can tell that the steering knuckle is at an angle, but I can't tell that it's bent or if the problem is with the lower ball joint? Nothing is in a bind at all or loose. I can't tell what is causing it to be out of adjustment....
Thanks,
Mike
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...5&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&ppuser=74154
Thanks,
Mike
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...5&ppuser=74154
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&ppuser=74154
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
firebill1720
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
20
Mar 5, 2010 09:23 AM
Wulzcat
HELP!
7
Dec 22, 2009 02:28 PM
Wulzcat
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
1
Dec 19, 2009 05:15 PM
getblown5.9
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
9
May 2, 2006 10:01 PM