When I do an APPS reset do I leave the positive cables on the batteries or take them off? The instructions only mention the negative cables.

mike

 

Negative only when I did mine.

 

Thanks! I figured as much, but wanted to make sure.

Mike

 

it's more a matter of allowing enough time for the electronic components to discharge completely, therefore not retaining any 'memory'.
I reset my APPS several times, but noticed a difference when I left it disconnected overnight.

 

When I have reset any computers in cars (to re-learn trans shift points or any other things) I always remove the positive battery cable from the battery and touched it to the negative post on the battery. This discharges all the capacitors. It has always worked good for me but not everyone feels safe doing this. Just my .02

 

i have a mechanic buddy that does the same thing. i wasn't in a hurry, so i played it safe and left it alone overnight. Leaving the key on while the batteries are disco'd is the slow boat way to achive the same results anyways, right?

 

batteries off, flip on the headlights.

if concerned about it sure, touch the negative and positive cables together. thats nothing different than turning on the lights though. completing a circuit.

 

Not trying to hijack the thread but, what if you had the truck reprogramed and then later reset the APPS. I had the flash done last year for the high idle. If I reset the APPS, would I have to do it again? Would it go back to all factory settings? Maybe I'm comfused.

 

Guys! Please, read this article written by Bill K. from DTT! It will shed some new light on how to properly reset your APPS!

http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=614

 

Good link and great detail but totally different from everything else on this board. I'll be the first to admit I'm a newb so which way is correct or what are the differences in disconnecting the batts and pushing the peddle vs this method. When I did my apps reset I could feel the peddle was different for about 20 min (easy to get it to the floor) after it had the normal stop point you could push through.

 

Take the article for what is worth. IMHO Bill K. seems to know what he's talking about with regards to our trucks. Not being an expert myself, I sometimes have to use logic to cut through the haze of information floating around on the net and do what make since to me.

 

No disrespect ment, I'll try this method and see if there is any difference.

Last question, is it bad to reset the APPS too many times?

 

Just the other day I installed the DTT noise filter box and did the APPS recalibration as instructed in the DTT instructions. My APPS tag spec called for a .537 volt at rest. My 23 pin was only conducting .43 volts into the PCM. So, I rotated the APPS clockwise untill I had the noted .53 v at pin #23. Buttened every thing back up and fired it up to a engine missing and smokeing and a pyro showing 1200 degs with a very short WOT! Mind you, the truck ran fine before the recalibration with no unusual codes. The next day my new IAT sensor came in and after I installed it the truck was running just fine once again...Somehow the low voltage reading at pin #23 was masking a bad IAT sensor. This summer I put 2800 miles on the truck at steady freeway speeds of 75 to 85 and had a solid 20.2 mpg. Now I wonder what it would have been with a good IAT and APPS recalibration?

 

I checked mine today tag called for .534 volts and I was showing .412 when inspecting the apps I could see where the low idle throttle stop was worn to maybe .050" and caused the low voltage, simply moved the apps sensor and reinstalled truck runs better than ever smooth and even found an extra 4 psi at top end.Good article!

I ended up being .001 of a volt out..... I think I can live with that

One thought I had is if you backed out the high throttle screw stop would you get more voltage quicker would that inturn create a faster and more fuel senairo? My truck a WOT is 3.73 volts but there is room to get near or over four volts, does anybody know what the high voltage limit as far as the trouble code light goes, it would be easy to find out mind you. Not really sure if it would help though I don't quite grasp what the pcm does with the voltage reading and how it effects fueling.

Jason

 

I guess it's time to repost the APPS reset proceedure....

I got to get a 9 volt battery for my DVM... Then I'm going to give it a shot...