Anybody tried this on their rig?
 

www.dodgeramsteeringstabilizer.com

Pros and cons? Results good or bad? Thanks for the input.

Hmmm - has anyone tried this? Just about everyone on here has gone to the Dodge Steering Stabilizer. Search on it and you will have hours of reading. I can only speak to my results. When I bought my truck I had between 1/4 and a 1/3 of a steering wheel turn of play. It took two hands on the wheel and constant concentration to keept it 'between the navigational beacons'. I expected that I was going to have to buy an entire new front end for the truck - steering box, track bar, tie rods etc. On the advice of the folks here I bought a DSS just like that one. WOW!!!! An hour or so to install and now I can drive down the road with my left arm on the armrest and two fingers on the wheel. Best money I have ever spent on my truck.

it is a must have item if you own a 2nd gen

Huge improvement on my truck also, arguably the best 200 bucks I've spent on it. Easy install too.

Is it possible that this was adressed in the 2001.5 2nd Gen models? Mine has ~200K on the clock now and the steering has been nice and tight from the day I picked it up with 17 miles on her. Maybe I've just gotten lucky so far???

I have been watching for any signs of wobble or play in the steering wheel or any tracking issues....so far so good with the stock steering.

I think the steering was addressed/redesigned for the 2003 and up models. That's where the change in part #'s occurs for front end components between the 2nd/3rd gen trucks.

If you drive a third gen., you won't be raving about how well your truck steers. It's night and day.

$2500 dollars later and a complete rebuild of everything involving steering and my truck steers as well as a straight axle 3/4 ton can be expected to steer.

The only thing I haven't done is the sway bar ends with maxx links.

As for the DSS, if you run larger than stock tires you have greatly increased the frame stiffness by boxing it in, and taken any torsional twist off the steering box mount, so yes, it is an improvement over the stock design.

You THINK you have tight steering until you put one on GET IT!!! You WILL NOT be disappointed. This device addresses frame flex where the steering box bolts up. There are many manufacturers making them and they all will work great.

I found that a good idea is to put a shotgun lead pellet under the setscrews that lock the bearing to the little nut nipple. Otherwise the setscrews ding up the nipple and make it hard to get apart. But not terribly hard just kind of a pain.

That is my next purchase along with replacing oem front shocks, tie rod ends, sway bar ends and bushings.

I've heard that you can't use the steering stabilizer on trucks that have drop blocks installed for the sway bar.....is this true? just looking at the design of it, it seems like it could be used but i've never tried it.....are there certain steering stabilizers that will work & others that don't work if you have drop blocks installed?

Assuming you steering box is in the same location, you could just slip it under the lift blocks, no?

Boy I would sure think it'd still fit if it's under the blocks.

Course something to consider a the same time is that if you have a lift big enough to justify swaybar blocks, a drop pitman might be in order. Besides, the steering box brace REALLY will compliment a drop pitman because it takes all the load off the sector shaft bearing.

the only i can think of that possibly could cause a problem would be that the sway bar could be in the way of the DSS being able to connect up to the pitman arm when you use drop blocks....right now i only have about a 3 1/2" lift....i do have a drop pitman arm installed....seemed like the drag link was getting in a bind when turning sharply so i had to get one.....

Drop pitman puts even more stress on the flexy frame, so the bracket should help you even more than most. The only thing I can think of that would make it not work is if the drop blocks are too wide to fit over the brace. The brace HAS to go on before the blocks do or the nipple on the pitman nut will not sit properly in the bearing.

If they won't fit, I'd think a date with a grinder would sort it out.

Link above says "$120" is that right?

Looks like a deal, I bot mine 3 years ago from the original company in Saskatchewan, price may have dropped.