Question for the 24V owners here. Seems like the VP44s are less than desirable pumps but some have no issues. I own a 1st gen 12V but am curious about the manual trans and transfer cases in these 24 valve trucks. What are they NP205 Tcases or ??
I take it the manual trans are all 6 speeds but are they New Venture units? Also, the front hub lock out type...can someone tell me about them. Are the lockouts electric, vacuum actuated, and are they reliable and can they be manually locked in and out? Thanks in advance for the info!

 

This may help you with your questions. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/Ramspecs.htm

 

Thanks

 

I know and I'm sure I'd be whining on the GM forum if I had a Duramax. Right now I'm frustrated because I have a new problem that might be a deal breaker. It's this problem that lead me to replace the axle seal: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...45#post3014845


Sorry, the VP story is a little long:

I'm still on my 4th VP. The first one was done before I bought the truck at 40K, the second was also replaced under warranty at 77K. After the dealer put the second VP (czech reman btw) on, I scrapped the whole stock fuel system. Replaced everything with 3/8's hard lines, pulled the in tank pump and replaced it with a Walbro 392 and added big fuel cooler. The Walbro has been rock solid and holds a steady 10-15 psi with tons of flow. The czech reman only lasted about 20K. I replaced it with an Industrial Injection pump. This is when I got the edge comp and tapped the fuel wire. This pump lasted longer than any of the others and when it died it didn't throw any codes. It wasn't a computer failure, so I have no idea what happened to the last pump. I'm not tapping the fuel wire on the current pump and with any luck it will go 100K (yeah right )

 

Well as much as I appreciate your honesty, you just reassured what I said..... There is ALWAYS a story behind a disgruntled person which leads back to everything we've all established over the years as bad for the VP and or bogus re-manufactured VP's. Hopefully when you install your new one you purchase one with a new computer from a reputable vendor, keep your fuel pressure in the preferred 15-20 psi, run a high volume fuel pump with JIC fittings, dont ever run out of fuel, keep your fuel tank no less than 1/4 full during hot weather, and it should last for many many years.

 

I'm gonna add, use a product to add lubricity/lubrication to the fuel, be it an additive like Power Service, Stanadyne or 2% biodiesel.

 

well I have around 207,000 on mine and bought it at 160,000 since i owned it i had the lp die
and vp44 die
fuel sendor die
apps die
engine computer die
abs computer die
and replaced all the front end
trac bar
leaking steering box
replaced pinion seals and t case output seals
replaced broken dash with the lmc one
had to knock the til pin back in the column 2 times now
all ujoints and carrier bearing(tried to solve the highway shake)
slams into od so we did a shift solonoid and **** kit
came with a power puck that didn't do much on mine i gave it to a friend with an all stock 01 3/4 ton and made his run like a rocket ship (go figure)
had to take apart the pass side seat switch to fix it ( would not go back)
sunglass holder latch is broke
a/c runs no matter what setting it is on
poor flow from heater + a/c
replaced frosted headlights
a pillar tweeters fell apart ( both)
cd player does not work
drivers seat heater does not work
a/c died last year and the mech i use refilled it and used some stop leak stuff cause the compressor is leaking been fine ever since
have an oil leak on engine and tc seal on trans
trans uses synthetic as does all grease fittings


while all these were apart we upgraded the injectors
lp moved down on frame
vulcan straw and big line kit
ez edge on power selection
had valves adjusted
changed the intake plenum
went to 4" exhaust
relocated the engine breather
just installed a new class v rear hitch and a front hitch
upgraded to the flip up tow mirrors
I also run cheap walmart outboard oil in the fuel and use the fuel additive in the silver bottle every couple tanks

I know there is more just cannot remember it all and only had it since 2006-07? I think

 

Is Industrial Injection out of Salt Lake City not a reputable vendor?

I know the basics, but it appears the fuel pressure debate is still in full swing. IMO 10-15 with no higher than 7 psi while cranking is ideal and don't tap the wire. My last pump didn't fail because of fuel pressure, it was caused by the fuel wire. But only time will tell for me:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...-psi-vp44.html

And the last poster reminded me, I also had to replace the ECM. Anyway, I wish everyone the best of luck!

 

I cant say for sure if Industrial Injection is reputable but I can say that I dont recall any ever talking negative about them. Maybe you need to ask that specific question in another thread to get a proper answer to your question.

As for fuel pressure..... The "debate" will never be over because there is no way for anyone to prove anything to everyone without the support of Bosch or Cummins or Dodge, and you can guarantee that NOT ONE of those three entities will have ANYTHING to say regarding the VP or fuel pressure's this late in the game, other than what they wrote in the manuals. And you have to ask yourself, why would they? Not only is all their R&D in the CR and other future fuel systems but also because any change of their position now would be an admission of guilt and could incriminate themselves. Not to mention that most of the time VP failure is because of the owner gambling reliability by adding a box, far more than just failing because of design flaws.

But as for the general consensus of running pressure, well those figures will change over time as things are discovered by consumer testing and feedback and that thread you linked was from '08, if I remember right. 10 psi minimum "was" the general thought but that has been re-thought where as long as the minimum FP is equal to or more than the overflow valves 14-16 psi then you cant be doing anything but good for the VP by always assuring that the VP is getting a constant flow of excess fuel to transfer heat away and keep it cool. That being said, more than 20 psi isn't necessary and the VP doesn't want ANY fuel pressure while the engine is cranking. So today in 2011 the general consensus for optimal fuel pressure in the ISB is 20(ish) psi at idle and 15(ish) psi at WOT, with ZERO psi during engine cranking.

 

yeah mine used to fire right off like 1 engine revolution, then the ecm went and the dealer flashed in the "software update" and ever since i have almost 0 psi when i first turn the key then it builds when i crank, and i have to crank the hell out of it to get it to fire cold( yes the preheat works) and this was before all the mods I did, so in the end the "upgrade" from dodge screwd my truck

 

I see I am not the only one who has changed their cracked dash, (my 1992 & 2001) I called Chrysler when my 01's dash cracked to see if they would assist, even a discount on parts. I was told since I wasn't the original owner, they wouldn't even consider the repair.

..............I think they are still laughing