Edit: 1998 24v.
Engine died in the driveway 5 sec after starting.
Not hearing the lift pump when the key is cycled. Went to check for power at the lift pump…and there isn’t one where I was expecting it. I guess this means I’m one of the “lucky ones” with the in-tank pump

Dumb question- if it turns out the lift pump is bad can I just install a block-mounted lift pump and assume it’ll pull through the dead one in the tank? No funds for a FASS upgrade at the moment, although I get it that it can save your VP44 down the road.


Who stole my lift pump?

 

No, you will have to put a sump and sending unit in the thank.

You probably do not have the 3 hole lift pump bracket at the engine that’s stock on ‘01 up.

It’s a lot of searching but I have found and bought just the pump motor instead of replacing your whole tank unit. You need it out to get all identifiable numbers off of it. It might already be offered like that somewhere already.

Keeping what you have now is your cheapest way out.

 

Thanks for the reply! Lucky me. I just barely topped off the tank.

So, did mine come stock with the in-tank filter? I read somewhere it was a dealer “upgrade” when the block-mounted pump failed.

Sounds like if I plan on keeping the truck I should save for a VP44 soon (if it isn’t already toast), a FASS and a fuel pressure gauge?

(New to the 24v world. Have only had 3rd and 4th gens previously)

 

I’m not sure when they did in tank to out back to back in. My ‘01 came with the lift pump at the engine when new. I mean in tank an upgrade is in the eye of the beholder I guess. I for one don’t like dropping the tank. I’m happy right where it is. I would say that, there is no doubt that yours is pushing the fuel vs mine pulling the fuel, yours is more beneficial to push.

yes protect that VP44, that is a cost you only want to do once. I have a gauge right before the VP44. It’s good to have the most reliable pump, but the visual protection of loss of pressure is your savior. $100 pump vs $600 pump, when they go out they both do the same damage. It’s about the pressure. I run a FASS on a Powerstroke I have, only because that injector pump is very sensitive to moisture, on my Cummins, there is a pump that Summit has for $100 maybe, I have had it for 13 years.

I would not stress on it for a while though if you stay which the in tank for now. You have a while. And that Fleece sump/sending unit you will need also, is I think another $400.

Hey good luck. Gotta laugh about filling your tank up, what you gonna do, RIGHT!

 

Just a follow up on my post. I finally got around to pumping out all the fuel and replaced my lift pump. Just did a stock-type one from Rock Auto since I'm not planning on keeping the truck very long. Found this YT video which was really helpful to identify the relay and wiring for the dealer-installed lift pump so I could diagnose it.

Also installed a Fuel Pressure gauge (from Glow Shift, good deal) to protect the VP44.

Now I have another, related problem: Leaking fuel around the heater grommet at the top of the filter housing. Must be sucking in air as well, causing long cranks. Anyone have the final solution on replacing the o-ring on the wiring grommet? I found this kit from Genos, but it eliminates the heater altogether. I think I need the heater. It gets cold here.

 

O-ring matching can be a pain. I bought a kit with about 12 different sizes and thicknesses rather than driving back and forth to the auto parts stores.....

What's a 1988 24v look like??

 

Good call on the o-ring kit. I spec them at work, got to get the right material AND size. Not all of them can handle exposure to diesel fuel.

So it sounds like you can’t stretch the o-ring over the connector or the heater? You have to either de-pin the connector or cut the wires?

Yeah, I fat-fingered the year and it won’t let me edit it. 🙄 1988 is even pre-12v!