Hey guys I have a bad wheel bearing in the front axel on my truck. Once you take the manual locking hub off can you pull the wheel bearing out or do i need to take the rotor all off and stuff? I'm hoping its the outside one. Is there a seal or anything I need to replace by it to our what. Also I need a cargo light lense and dome light assebly.

 

I'm doing all that stuff now on my truck. the outside one should come right out when the nut is off. the inside one comes out the back. you may want to just change them both. I just got all timkens at 57 and change a side. Pricey but cheap in the long run.

 

hey, welcome to DTR! you can get the outer wheel bearing off without taking off the rotor/hub assembly. you need the "4 Slot 1/2in. Drive Bearing Lock Nut Tool" take off the outer nut, slide out the "washer" that has holes in it. then be VERY careful traking out the inner nut. there is a little "pin" that sticks out and goes into one of the holes on the washer. it's very easy to bust that little pin off. after that the outer bearing is right there. to get to the inner one you have to take the whole assembly off.

 

Did we forget the bearing's outer race?

The old bearing (proper) has seated to the original race, and vice-versa. To ensure the longevity of the repair/effort, you should strongly consider replacing both as a set. If I recall correctly, the new bearing will come with it.

You will need to pull the entire hub assembly off so as to drift out the old race. It'll be a good means of repacking the grease.

When I've had to go that deep into the front, the "Mother Of Invention" ~ Necessity had me come up with a way around the big nut tool.

I simply pulled out the nuts locking pin thing and took a large flat-blade screw driver and placed the blade in between the forward edge of the nut and the surrounding hub housing. Spinning the hub in the appropriate direction, I twist the screw driver blade so as to have it wedge (jam) between the hub and nut. The momentum of the spinning hub takes the nut right along with it.

It actually works good.

After cleaning all the old grease out of the hub guts, you can drift the old race out with a long punch of some sort. At that point, clean the race's home in the hub very well. Then take a large socket, a piece of pipe, or what ever just fits the bulk of the side of the race, and tap it in. Be sure that when you start, the race is square to its bore. Then drive it home. Be sure to seat it well.

Now put it all back together. Be sure to flush the inner bearing with the new grease as best you can

I've never had any problem with simply wiping the inner seal surface clean, and then re-lubricating it with some of the new grease prior to reassembly.

I hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the help guys hopefully my new lock-outs will arive tommorow and i can do it all saturday afternoon. Wish me luck.

 

4wdfactory has wheel bearing kits $39 per side. I got all my knig pin kit, wheel bearings, inner spindle bearings from them all quality timken suff seals included for all. All the parts came 3 days after ordering. texas to pa.

 

Hey guys I got it down to the outer wheel bearings but how do I pull them out? Please help fast

 

Us a brass punch or a pees of wood and nock the bearing and seal out the back of the hub.

 

Hey guys it's all done now. I bet next time I can do it much faster now. It's a little harder than all my old chevys and boy is that hub heavy. I guess it's good to know my dually is built pretty stout rather than being weak. Thanks for the advise everybody but how about those lights now?