I just got the WH1C finished up with the intake parts the nice UPS man brought me today. Here are some pics of the finished job. My question is about the wastegate rod length adjustment.

While I was pressure testing the system I couldn't get the WG to open until I had 35-40 psi going in the intake of the turbo. Can the rod be tightened up that much? I think that stock it's supposed to open around 17 psi.

Am I correct in assuming that the length of the rod puts a preload from the spring in the WG actuator so changing the length of the rod changes the preload and that changes the boost level that the WG opens at.

I haven't got a pyro or a boost gauge yet so I'm only going on what I see with static pressure applied from my compressor. Also the gauge on my Sears compressor may not be correct at that low a reading since it starts at 20 psi.

Is this an accurate to set the WG? When I get a boost gauge I can crank the pressure from my compressor up until the WG opens then see what boost gauge says.

Here's the pics:

 

Hook your compressor up directly to the WG actuator line, and see when it starts to open -- that is the measurement that matters. Your description of adjusting the actuator sounds correct to me. It looks as though you are almost done with the project! Don't forget, by the way, that without the aftercooler you will see much higher manifold pressure -- you will be getting close to the same molecular volume of air, but at a higher temperature, and pressure times molecular volume equals a constant times temperature (PV=nrT).

Take it easy,

Alec

 

I think I'll just take it easy till next month when I can afford a pyro and boost gauge. Then I can see the actual numbers I get. You lost me with the algebraic stuff though. I guess you mean that w/o the aftercooler I will have hotter air going into the cylinders but still have the high boost which is probably a bad idea.

What kind of maximum boost would be safe with stock injectors? Also I understand that extra boost can rob power if there is no extra fuel to go with it. How do you figure out where to set the maximum boost for your fuel rate?

I think I'll make the pics smaller so it will fit browsers better. Sorry everyone.

Edwin

 

The WH1C becomes inefficient over 30 psi. Above that you are making the extra pressure more by heating the air rather than by compressing it. The pressure is higher, but you lose density because of the excess heat.

Once you get gauges let the EGT be your guide to where the wastegate should be set. For right now set it up to open at 30 psi and you'll be safe.

What Alec was talking about is that, all things being equal, a non-intercooled truck will show higher boost than an intercooled truck. This is because cooling the boost lowers the pressure. There's still the same mass of air coming in the intake, it's just the intercooled truck gets a denser charge. Same "amount" of air, just lower pressure.

BTW, your setup looks really good.

 

My sotp meter says that anything over 20 or so psi and my little 52mm compressor wheel is worthless. It pulls great till that point, which is about half throttle in any gear...more throttle yields more boost and more smoke, but no real increase in power that I can feel. I took my first honest to god full throttle runs in 4th a couple days ago and once boost swept past 20psi, the pyro took off like mad...maybe that's where the water/meth should kick in

 

What have you done to the pump so far? . What RPM is it starting to feel like it's laying over? With that spring it should pull strong all the way to 3200 without laying over or defueling.


Den

 

Thanks. I had to take the compressor housing off again and do more grinding. I don't know why I didn't do it right the first time. I didn't want to get to thin on the casting but there was plenty of meat there anyway. I had to shorten it some so it would fit and be lined up.

The mods for the intake was easier and turned out better than I had hoped. I like the flexible part to allow for motor torque although I may need to go to a BHAF eventually. Is the BHAF pipe the same size? 4.5" I think.

The exhaust pipe was the hardest part to do with only me. I finally took the hanger at the bell housing completely loose then I got a crowbar and pushed the pipe back until I got the turbo bolted in then I put the clamp and hanger back. I got about 1/2 inch space between the pipe and the rubber cover on the HVAC.

Next I need to come up with an extra $200 for a boost and pyro so I can see what's up with things there. AFAIK my WG doesn't open until 35-40 psi according to the gauge on my Sears compressor which I don't trust at all. I still can't keep the test cap on the intake. 30 psi on a 4" cap is a lot pushing the cap off and the metal is just to slick. It wasn't meant to hold that kind of pressure anyway. Somebody said it was valid to just pressurize the WG line to set the opening point. I got the sender for the tach hooked up today before I had to quit. I'll mount the tach on the dash tomorrow. Not sure if I want to do it on top or put it between the speedo and the Amp/Temp gauges like somebody else did. If fits there pretty well but still obstructs a little. Since I'm getting a boost/pyro eventually I think they'll look pretty good all together on top of the dash to the right of the wheel. Thoughts?

I just got my rear hitch fixed up and I have a gooseneck also so I am advertizing for short hauling jobs. Might as well do something to pay for bombs.

Edwin

 

Den,

Pump mods: 3200 spring, full boogie screw cranked a bit, starwheel pretty high up for smoke control, afc cone deep, smoke screw disabled and timing advance a wee bit---see pic in gallery.

'layover' rpm: it's not that it stops pulling so much as the fuel it needs to turn past, say, 2500, pushes the turbo out of any reasonable efficiancy map it has. This may not be what's physically happening, but it's how I think of it in my head. She runs awesome when I'm at 20 psi, but to hold 20psi at WOT would mean turning out the full boogie screw and that's just unacceptable I bought Wannadiesel's 12cm housing and drilled the divider, but since I'm pushing 35psi with an 18cm, I think I'll be doing the same with the 12cm w/g....but, the 12cm will solve two other problems for me--around town spooling and slight grade boost---I should be able to set the Turbo-Master right at my 20 psi sweet spot for pulling long grades and keep my temps down...now I only have 8-12psi at 70mph 5% grade. It'll be restrictive up top, but two outta three 'aint bad for a little$$ Even in the upper revs, I think the manual tranny loads the engine a lot harder than the auto...I simply need a better turbo to ask the engine to make power above 25-2700. And hey, the truck just flat out runs awesome as it is--and I should turn 400,000 miles this summer My ksb wire is hanging in the breeze and it was 25 degrees here this AM---fired and idled perfectly on less than half a crank not plugged in. 23 mpg last tank. I have ZERO complaints--I love my truck! There is, of course, always room to tweek

 

Yeah! I forgot to mention that I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in my divider through the WG hole. I didn't have any larger bits in my index. I think the 1/2 inch is probably OK since the WG hole now has to bypass both sides. I'm also thinking there is some good reason why they separated the streams but I don't know what it is.

Last time I checked my truck got 18.6 mpg with mostly around town driving with a lead foot to boot. I just can't resist flooring it in 3rd gear up to 40 mph then I have to slide it in 4th and try to look innocent. I can't wait till I get to haul a big load to see what the mileage is. I hear that 12 mpg isn't unreasonable with 4-5 tons. I'm hopeing also that the extra air with in-town driving will improve my mileage.

Stay tuned for when I get my gauges. I'll be asking for lots of advise tweaking the pump.

Thanks everyone again. This is the best forum I have ever been on. Even the flames are not so bad.

Edwin

 

When you are testing the wastegate with compressed air be carefut not to put too much pressure on it. I'm not sure what press the diaphragm will take but most were designed to open under 20psi so I wouldn't go over 30 max. I think they are pretty expensive. Use a guage you know is accurate.

 

Edwin- My tach is mounted on top of the column as far to the right as I could put it. The only things it obstructs are the high beam indicator and the speedo over 80.

I'd just leave the wastegate alone until you get gauges. It ought to start opening around 20 - 25 psi if it hasn't been messed with, that'll be fine with stock injectors. With reasonable amounts of fuel it does not take much wastegate opening to lower boost, just cracking it open will do it.

I think Holset didn't bother drilling the hole through because it was cheaper not to. Drilling the center divider isn't really needed to control boost until you have a lot of fuel. I like it on any wastegated housing just because it helps equalize backpressure when the wastegate is open. I feel like that makes for less stress on the head gasket, less heat on the pistons, and more evenly balanced power output from all cylinders. Good things all around.

Greg- My experience with the 52 mm wheel was similar. 25 or 35 psi, it didn't matter, it was hot. The dyno sheet I have from that turbo was dead flat at 250 HP from 2000 to 2500 RPM. HTT can set you up with a better compressor. Several guys have bolted 'em on and are running them with no problems. I'd go Stage III.

 

Wannadiesel:

Yeah I'll leave it alone for now. Right now the Low Fuel light is on so I can't drive it until I can afford more fuel or business picks up. For now I have to get by on staring lovingly at my engine for hours at a time.

I haven't mounted the tach yet because I had other business to attend to today but hopefully I can mount it tomorrow. I guess I'll need to find somebody with an optical tach to calibrate it with.

Edwin

 

My "baby H1C" used to pull pretty good up to and a little beyond 30 psi...that's with a 16 cm ex housing.
I now have a "standard" H1C with a WH1C compressor housing and the 16 ex housing (aka frankenturbo) ...I get a little lag, but it still pulls up thru 30 pretty good. I think it's the full 3 inch crossover pipe and intake horn I now have that's letting it take all the air the compressor can put out.
Next step for me is something from HTT I think
Then that's it for mods....I promise

Jay

 

Did you change to the WH1C wheel as well? I worry about the 2" restriction especially since it's about 1-3/4" I.D. The 12 cm WG housing seems to really spool up quick now. I removed the silencer ring also and I can really hear the whine. Make me grin. I still get some smoke and it's hard to tell if it changed much. I do get more power sooner it seems in 4th and 5th. Hard to tell without a load on though. How much does a dyno run cost?

Edwin

 

Edwin, No I did not use the WH1C wheel...it looked the same to me but I didn't do any measuring.... I still have it and will do that to see if it makes any diff.
Yes removing the ring does make a difference...it freaked out my dog the first time he rode in the truck and I got on it
Jay