Strive, welcome to the world of Monster Tires. The wondering might let up after the tires break in or the driver gets use to it.

If you got bump steer you need to level the steering linkage or hold the steering wheel with a light hand so it can move on bumps.

We have 4x4 F-350's at work with 3 1/2" blocks in the rear. Lots of axle wrap up and never a problem. Good O spring steel... after being wrapped up goes right back to were it was. It has an excellent memory. Make sure your rear latter bars are long and run semi parallel with the front leaf hanger to axle.

The 3 things you described are common in raised vehicles. Sit back and enjoy the ride.

 

Sorry to say, but I gotta disagree with just about everything you said:
Or it'll let up after you get killed or kill somebody else in an accident.

I'll take option #1. Option #2 leads to my response #1, above. Fix it.

Yes, excellent and fast memory when it does it five time a second - otherwise known as wheel hop. Always a problem, IMHO.

But please make sure to do this only after you fix the problem. Your time and money will be better spent repairing the suspension/steering than installing more junk on the truck.

Yes, common on improperly built and/or worn out vehicles. I only hope I don't have to witness you enjoying the ride anywhere near me out on the highway.

 

Ace, he didn't comment on the truck wondering before he changed the tires and suspension. I'm not doubting the truck might be worn and might need some new items especially now that he's putting more load on possibly worn linkage. But after doing all this you speak of he still might have the same problem with the big tires. Big 4x4 tires are know for poor road manners, thats why I put tall street tires on the Mc Mobile because I didn't want all that wondering and front end shake.

Bump steer, my mom's super duty with a 2 1/2 leveling kit bump steers. My KW bump steers if I get 12.5 up front. 10-11K on the steer axle isn't bad but once the steering arm is not level it bump steers... no big deal. (C pic)

If in sandy soil our 2008 GMC 2500 has axle wrap. Just the way it is....no big deal.

I personally thing latter bars are a waist because it hammers on your drive train by not allowing the rear axle to twist/move. But I put them bars on my GMC dually when I was young. Sure magnified the shift kit

Ace, all said and done I appreciate your knowledge and number of posts. Keep up the good work.

 

No doubt bigger tires will amplify or exaggerate any other weakness in the steering and suspension. But (big but), if it's set up right it will drive and steer right (or at least to the point of not being dangerous on the road), with just about any sane sized tires that will fit. JMHO.

Again sorry, but it seemed to me more like you were telling the OP to just basically ignore it, and I can't go along with that. He isn't happy with it or he wouldn't be asking for help. Let's help him get it figured out.

 

I THINK it's called a track bar. It runs parallel to the axle and attaches to the frame; it eliminates the axle wandering from side to side under the truck. Some solid axle trucks have them, some don't. They do limit articulation a little bit, but not an issue for normal use. I'm planning on doing this to my truck when I get time, cuz I know it'll help!

 

There's no application for a track bar in a leaf-sprung front suspension. The axle is laterally located by the springs themselves. Any wandering due to a lack of lateral axle control would be due to the spring and shackle mounts.

I can't remember who, but just recently there was a member here who turned up with some seriously trashed front spring mounts. That's what prompted me to mention it in my first post on this thread.

 

maybe someone has already brought up crossover, im to lazy to read every post. my truck used to go all over the place,albeit with 235's. I replaced every front end component and then found a loose steering box bracket and loose front spring shackle. now its 2 finger steering, with a huge load on crappy roads. tires could be bad also, can happen brand new.

 

Strive21,
I have the same lift and had the same problems on my 93. After fixing the cracked frame by the steering box, welding the loose front spring mounts, rebuilt steering box, Borgensen shaft and replaced the king pins the steering was about 40% better. My caster was also out of spec and I could either remove the skyjacker shims or add 2" longer shackles. I chose the shackles and it brought my caster back just in spec. This made the steering about another 20% better. Then I did the best thing I have done to my truck and added crossover steering. Now it drives very nice with one hand on the wheel and it was worth every penny for that mod alone. Here is where I got the kit.

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=164

 

IS, looks nice, would like to C a pic of the truck. I also put cross over steering on my 68 W300, but I put a block on the right side to help prevent bump steer. If you leveled your steering linkage it would drive even nicer.

 

Thanks for the info Mike, I just happen to have a block laying around and now it has a purpose... and heres a pic.

 

My old 400,000-mile 1978 K-20 Chevy with six-inch suspension, worn-out shocks, steering-stabilizer with a hole knocked in it, raised steering-arm but no crossover, stabilizer still where GM put it, and 15-38.5x15 Ground Hawgs drives better than any other truck I ever drove.

That being said, I think most of the fault lies in TALL FAT RADIAL TIRES.

I once accidentally traded for four 38-inch Mudders, the guy swearing all along that they were BIAS, until I got them home and washed the snow, ice, and mud off, finding that they were radials.

They had decent tread, and my money was already gone, so I gave them a try; it drove worse than it would have with one flat BIAS on the front and too much air in the others.

I got a chance to unload the radials to some big-eyed kid with a pocket-full of money, put a set of BIAS back on, and it once again drives like a truck should.


This is just my own observation and may not be your problem at all, but I almost bet it is.

 

Just a thought. Had a few trucks that had a hard spot in a ball joint. They were all over the road until replaced.

 

IS, thats a nice looking truck you got there You steering linkage looks to have enough thread sticking out so you can shorten it when you put the block on.

BK, I've ran Ground Hogs and Mudders in the past and thats why I went with tall 38 x 11 R22.5 on the MC Mobile. With my truck weighing 10K empty the 4x4 tires would be so noisy.

 

You need to correct your caster.
Moog makes an adjustable lower king pin (can't remember the part number off hand). Specialty makes an eccentric bushing part number 88940 for the upper king pin. And/or you may be able to find some angle shims to go between the springs and the axle. I was surprised how much difference only a small correction made.

 

Just sayin!