I looked in the "Sticky" and found this

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=143024

Although it's a great write up, I don't see the actual FSM torque sequencing that I would need to put my truck back together again correctly. I'm used to doing toyota axles where you torque to a ft or inch pound, the first nut, spin the rotor, back off the nut and retorque, install the locking ring, then the outer nut ... torqued to spec.

EDIT:

I'm ordering this: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....mber=DFSM93_CD

In the mean time, could someone direct me to the correct procedure, either somewhere on this site or elsewhere ?

Most of what I found was from 1994 onwards, other than this bit below:

per the service manual
50ft/lbs to seat the bearings... loosen.
re-tighten to 31-39ft/lbs while rotating.
back off 135-150 degrees to set the freeplay.
install tabbed lock washer
install and tighten the outer lock nut to 160-205ft/lbs

Is this the correct procedure for a 93 4500lb front axle wheel bearing install ?


Thank you.

 

Wow!

With all of the intelligent people (not being facetious) here, on the boards, there's no one who can help me out ?

 

Myself, I just crank down the adjustment nut while rotating the rotor until the bearings are nice and tight. I then back the adjustment nut off a half turn or so then I take up the slack just enough that there isn't any preload on the bearings. Then set the lock plate in and the outer lock nut gets cranked down nice and tight. Never had a problem doing it that way.

 

Thanks Marc

That's what I did, for today. I used to do it the same way, years back, but when I discovered.... learned about the factory service procedures that most manufacturers can provide, I started following their protocol.

Since the truck is all back together, and the way you noted above worked fine, I'll just let it ride until a later date when I have to change out the other side axle joint. By then, I'll have the FSM CD from Bishko and I can adjust it in a manner of minutes, if I notice any play developed.


BTW,

After re-reading the brake service link in the sticky, I realized that the specifications were there, but I guess I stopped reading after I read that he didn't have the correct tool for doing the job.

My apologies to David.

The specs are there, just had to look harder. My bad.


"The FSM wants you to (using the correct tool) tighten the axle nut to 240 to 300 in/lbs.
Now reverse the twist of the screw driver and loosen the axle nut 1/4 turn.
Place the greased lock-washer on the axle so one of the holes fits down around the axle nut pin.
Now place the jamb-nut on the axle and run it on up against the lock-washer.
* The Dodge FSM wants you to tighten the jamb-nut to 160 to 205 ft/lbs"

 

Been doing it that way for years. When I was in college and learning the trade We got to watch a factory service video for some kind of OTR truck manufacturer regarding wheel bearing setup procedures. In the video they showed some load carrying capability specs of tapered bearings and noted that the best capacity was actually achieved under a slight PRELOAD. However, measuring preload on a tapered wheel bearing wasn't feasible in the situation and similar capacities could be achieved with .001" endplay which could easily be measured.

There were other reasons behind going with endplay measurements vs preload but the jist was that best results were achieved right in the middle at .000" endplay/0#preload. I now strive for that setup and find that I can do this easiest by feeling the setup by hand.

 

For anyone who's interested in the FSM procedure