So after the new springs and alignment when I turn the wheel left or right while moveing I feel some play. The steering wheel is off about 10 or so degrees one way or another depending on which way I turn. The alignment shop wanted to shim the spindles because the tires do bow out some at the bottom. But this still dosen't explane the steering slop. It did not do this before the new springs. I am thinking the shims and kin pins possibly were wore and now they are showing up I dont know i am at a loss. what do you guys think.

 

Think about the geometry of your setup. The springs lifted the axle farther away from the box, increasing the draglink angle that in turn makes the pitman arm want to rotate back to compensate. The final result is a cocked stearing wheel???? Hope its not the pins though!

 

Like I said on the other post, check to see if your steering shaft on the box (the splined on the pitman arm slides onto) is moving up and down while turning the steering shaft by hand(idling of course).
This will give slop in the wheel while turning, especially in a lifted truck. This happens because the drag link is at a angle, and pulls up/down on the steering box, which kills the bearings. Thats why you run the dropped pitman arm. Also corrects the geometry so the bumpsteer gets minimized.

As far as your tires being postive cambered, jack up your front end and if the tire slides in, and the wheel straightens itself up, put a tape on your toe. You want about 1/16" toe. Use anything straight pressed against the tires extending past the front and rear about 1 foot. Then bungy it to the tire and pull out the tape. A lot of alignment shops align by spec, and not by tire size, so if your running a 35 say and have it aligned to a stock spec, your toe will be way too much, which will cause excessive tire wear.

Also pry on your tire with a big prybar/2x4/whatever to see if it moves side to side. If so, you need a kingpin rebuild.

 

Just ordered a new pitman arm if it is not it, it will be a step in the right direction.