Thanks all for the input on the Skyjacker 2" front leaf springs! Look's as if I will give them a try on my 93 W250. I was going to get some add-a-leafs, to raise the sagging front of my truck. However, my front leaf's are so rusted - I think they need to go.
I already bought some Monroe/Gabriel front and rear shocks, so I will have to pass on the ProComp's. They sound like nice shocks! I have Timbrens for the front and rear of my rig, and will install those after I get the new front leaf's and shocks in.

 

Did summit tell you if the springs were in stock? I've read that some people on this board have had to wait months for their springs.


Cheers,
JOE

 

I have had mine installed for about two years (2" Skyjacker) and I have noticed some sag. The 2" never leveled the truck. The ride is substantially better from stock though.

If I did it again I would definately go with the 4". I use my truck for a daily driver and only haul on the weekends so there is rarely a load in the rear large enough to level the ole girl out.

Just my 2¢...

 

so to put either new 2" or 4" springs in the front is it just as simple as takin the old ones off n puttin the new ones in or no.

 

The 2" are a simple change no mods needed to anything. 4" you have to get a longer front drive shaft and should probably get a adjustable drag link. Anyone else know any different?

 

with 4" I would not mess with the adjustable drag link. I would scrap the current steering and switch to a crossover setup.

At 4" you might also have to pull the front shaft and grind the yokes for more clearance.

4" would also probably need longer brake lines and shocks.

That D60 front is a heavy pig. Have a good jack and some ratchet straps handy to get everything lined up. When I put move the D60 for my rock crawler around the transmission jack works the best.

 

4in will require longer drive shaft, and also grinding the CV joint, so it will flex more. I did this on mine with only the 2 in springs as I believe that is what wore my output yolk and shaft from the TC.

You will also need longer shocks, and at a minimum a drop pitman arm, along with an adjustable drag link. But as was mentioned, I would also switch to a cross over type steering system.

So for 4inch lift springs you need a lot more to make them work properly than the 2inch springs. 2inch springs won't require anything else.

 

Ditto on that Dana being a heavy pig. I had mine lowered too far when I adjusted the front springs last week and the drive shaft came out when it rolled forward a few inches. Major PITA getting that back together. Don't do that.

 

I ordered the front & rear kit from skyjacker through our local 4wd shop. The front is not level with the rear but it is much improved. The new springs are still smiling, the factory orginals were frowning. Tomorrow at the shop I can get some measurements front to rear now that the springs and box are on. I was not able to use the front steel spring eye sleeves with the 5/8" bolts. So I am sleeve less in the front eyes. I had read the springs moved more under loads and installed timbrens to act as dampened bump stops.
From the skyjacker site:
Lift Kit-Suspension for a 1993 DODGE W350 PICKUP 5.9L L6
Part Number D292CDKS
Description:
Suspension Lift Kit; 2.5 in. Front/0.5-2 in. Rear Lift; Incl. Front/Rear Leaf Springs; Front/Rear UBolt Kits; Front/Rear Bushing Kit;
Contents
Part # Description Amount
D200CS "SOFTRIDE SPRG,FRT 2""CUMMINS" 2 EA
D240CDS "SYS BOX,2-4"" 87-91 DODGE C" 1 BX
DR60S "SOFTRIDE SPRG 6"" REAR DGE " 2 EA

 

Kiszka,
Thanks much for the Skyjacker 2" front leaf part #. I will be ordering a pair this week.

 

When I spoke to skyjacker today, I was told that the D200CS, has a weight rating of 500 lbs, does this seem low to anyone else?
They also weren't able to clarify the 5/8 sleeve problem,
Has someone found anyone at skyjacker that knows what they are talking about,
I need some heavy springs in the front, by the time the plow is hung off the front of the truc,
I would like to fix the sag, but I am not sure that these springs are up to the task

Thanks,

 

If I were to do it again, nothing against the springs, I would buy a set of airbags and build brackets for them up front. Use them to set your ride height, and when you have the plow on put more air in them for the extra weight.

 

500 is a spring rate, not load rate. Ive only had my 2" lift for two months but I love them! The front sits a bit higher in the front, but Im going to do something about that in the rear. Funny, my 2" springs are still sitting 2.5" over stock.

 

I have a set of 4" springs on my 90. You dont have to mess with the front drive shaft. I have 180K on mine with the 4" leaves from skyjacker, with no problems with my drive shaft. As for the steering as said before a drop pitman arm is a must. An adjustable draglink helps even out the steering. As for a cross over, its a nice option to have, but for the extra money to make it happen its not a must have. Plus there isnt a lot of room with the 4" lift, and the front cross member.
Right now I am overseas with the military, and when I get home I am upgrading to a 6" skyjacker lift, and putting 37" toyos on. At this point it will be a must to double cv joint the front drive shaft and lengthin it. Ant with running the bigger tires I will go to a cross over steering. But with a 4" its not needed.

Bob

 

I went with the 2" diesel springs (see p/n's) above which did not level the truck. The ride is much better and the suspension actually moves.

I am currently building a hybrid RCC (RamChargerCentral) lift that will get me two more inches of lift. The I can switch the 35x12.5x17 and also switch to crossover steering.