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After the test drive: My story. opinion needed.

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Old 06-05-2008, 12:17 AM
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After the test drive: My story. opinion needed.

My W key fell off. So if there is a place where it goes blah blah blah e blah blah blah, the e is supposed to be we.

so, ill give you an account of what happened.
Greg, i know your probably following this, so, ima be honest. This is what i told you, but with some other things thrown in...

We show up, and the truck looks okay. The paint is somewhat faded on the hood, and quite faded on the roof. Nothing where theres primer or bare metal, but still noticeable.

He opened the door an came out. Nice guy, firm handshake

We opened the hood, and everything looked relatively well done, nice and clean. He fired it up, and i noticed this, but didnt think anything of it, but my dad pointed out that the engine shakes in idle. about 5 degrees of rotation. Greg said it did it after the injectors so he thought it was that, but it did it before. He also added that the other owner had the bushings tested, and were fine.

After that, my dad pointed out the tailgate, which is protruding from the rear a bit. The trim panels were not connected either, so the DODGE plate was falling off a little.

Next item. When he went to turn it off, he pulled the key out, but it kept going... He had to pull a little tab, connected to some bike shifter cable to turn the pump off. Is this normal on modded trucks?

Then we looked at the interior. Relatively okay. The arm rest was worn through though, but it felt comfy. The windshield was cracked, but he said hed chip in for it. Also, the rear view mirror was missing, making me a little disoriented. But eventually i got used to that. I still didnt get used to how big it was, i kept driving in the middle of the road :P

Next, when i looked for the P-Brake, he told me there isnt one... It had been taken out when he did the disk brake conversion. So, that means i would have to invest in a parking chalk that couldnt be stolen.

So we pull out, and everythings fine, except for the brakes. you REALLY have to get on them to stop. Stopping with a trailer on the freeway WOULD NOT go well. But i figured a professional brake bleed and job would make it better.

Then, e got onto a straight road... MAN THAT THING RIPS! We only got it to about 20PSI (of 65 total :P) and it went good.

We went down to a bigger street, and i goosed it, and it SMOOOOOKED! Like 5 mexican chicks in a little commuter car pulled up to me, and was like. "Hey! Joo Pohlootin teee Aireee! Aye Cahnot Breeeeeeth!!!!!" So i smoked them again!

Then we were on our marry way. Then it was time to turn around, and make a... well, attempt a U-Turn. I had to back up, and go again, but that wasnt a problem.

Then we get to the major problem.

We pulled down the street to change drivers. But before we got out, i asked if i could try the 4-WD out. ALL YOU 1ST GEN OWNERS LISTEN UP!

So, i put it in neutral, and shift it into 4-LO. It works good. Then i stop to shift it back. Neutral, T-case into N, then into 2-HI.GRRRRAAAAGGGGTTTTT! Grinding, instantly, I put it back into T-Case N. Then i try again, same result. I then tell him, hey, i have no idea whats going on. You do it.

So my dad jumps out, and Greg takes the pass seat. We try park, then N then shifting. Nothing. He fiddles with it, throwing it left and right (isnt it supposed to stay in a track??). We turned it off, and put it in park. It rolled forward. Nope.. Throw the T-Case handle around more, Park again, roll forward, we get grinding now, but still not in gear. Throwing it around some more, he finally got it, and e changed drivers, and we were off.

From that point, i had a feeling in me that, perhaps this thing is actually quite fragile....

Then my dad took over, so he could feel it, and drove home. I told him to goose it, and spool it up to 20PSI, we did, and it was zippy for a 7k lb truck.

We pull into his street, and my dad yells to my mom and sister waiting in the burb, HEY, LOOK AT THIS! And he proceeded to smoke them. He found that quite enjoyable.

As were coming back to his house, we have to go into someones driveway to turn around. All was good, until we put it in reverse... The T-case rattled really badly. He said it was the 5" Down Pipe hitting it, but only in reverse it does that.

We get back, and park it in the driveway, and put it on the bricks (since it has no parking brake).

I left feeling it was somehat mechanically sound, but.. It had some body work that needed to be done.

So, whats yalls opinion on what you just heard?

P.S. Left Coast Diesel, I need to schedule a mechanics overview with you. I was thinking the Wednesday coming up, at 2:00pm?
Old 06-05-2008, 01:48 AM
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check all the engine and trans mounts.
Old 06-05-2008, 06:19 AM
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Sounds like a completely normal 1st gen to me. The pull cable shutdown is not abnormal as turned up pumps tend to tear the plunger on the electric solenoid that's controlled by the key. Pull cable is a cheap, legitimate fix. Is the truck an auto? It's not uncommon to have to shut the engine down when going from low to high range. Even the 5-speeds are prone to it. Believe me, there is NOTHING fragile about an NP-205 t-case Good luck with the purchase, and welcome to DTR!
greg
Old 06-05-2008, 06:20 AM
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He has a pull cable kill on it to shut it down. the shut down soleniod probably quit.
I have never heard of a 5" downpipe that didnt rattle against something underneath. They are a bit too big to fit comfortably.
My truck does the samething with grinding, all i do is put it into park first then shift from 4L to 2H
The brakes could probably need bleeding. People convert to disc for better stopping not worse.
IMO I think i needs new motor and trans mounts.
My tailgate is the same way. If you figure out a way to fix it let me know!!!
Junkyard would have a rear view mirror. Any year for 1981-93 will fit directly
Old 06-05-2008, 06:22 AM
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G1625S... You beat me to the post
Old 06-05-2008, 06:26 AM
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More than likley the linkage is a little twisted. Mine comes back from 4lo harder than it goes in and just have to take your time with it. This isn't some little pansy chain drive, man your shifting gears in there.

The lopy engine could be caused by a few things, custom DV's, possibly larger injector lines? I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

The trim, the truck is 15yrs old. Whatever.

The shut down cable, Is an absolute must on a VE that has been molested. There is no other way of doing it.

And for the rattle, BFH and adjust the 5" accordingly.

It sounds like a nice 15yr old truck to me. I know it sounds nicer than mine!

Is it an auto or manual?
Old 06-05-2008, 06:27 AM
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Your problems don't seem like the end of the world, you are new to this truck and have to learn like the rest of us did, that these trucks have certain ways about them. As far as 4wd shifting, the transfer case can be tricky to a newbie. If it grinds, it is advisable to shut the engine down, wait for everything to stop turning and then shift to the desired range. From the way you described, it sounds pretty normal to me. That is an example of the truck specific (or brand specific) quirks that you will have to learn the tricks for. Good luck, aside from the appearance issues it sounds ok. Don't get in over your head, If it's not for you move on, there's plenty of 'em out there, so get what feels right in your gut.
Old 06-05-2008, 06:31 AM
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wow, we are all posting at once with the same ideas, which means the truck is OK.
Old 06-05-2008, 09:10 AM
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well, you all have reassured me on what i originally thought. It just has to be done a certain way, and i havnt learned that way yet.

Ill have the guys at left coast diesel check it out. If they say its okay, then... Well see dont wanna give anything away here

How much would a replacement windshield run me?
Old 06-05-2008, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by C/PRD/
More than likley the linkage is a little twisted. Mine comes back from 4lo harder than it goes in and just have to take your time with it. This isn't some little pansy chain drive, man your shifting gears in there.

The lopy engine could be caused by a few things, custom DV's, possibly larger injector lines? I wouldn't be too concerned about it.

The trim, the truck is 15yrs old. Whatever.

The shut down cable, Is an absolute must on a VE that has been molested. There is no other way of doing it.

And for the rattle, BFH and adjust the 5" accordingly.

It sounds like a nice 15yr old truck to me. I know it sounds nicer than mine!

Is it an auto or manual?
BFH??

I know, 15 years. dont expect an 00 paintjob.

Auto, Built tranny and 2nd gen tq converter.
Old 06-05-2008, 10:16 AM
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Big Flippin' Hammer !
Old 06-05-2008, 11:28 AM
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Before you spend $ on an new windshield, check for cowl cracks. I have no proof but I suspect that cowl cracks can cause a good windshield to crack from the bottom up. Think that's what happened to mine since it had a new windshield in it when I bought it and then cracked with no chip involved.
Old 06-05-2008, 11:32 AM
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If it is a genuine 1st Gen. Cummins and it is for sale, BUY IT; if you get this one and find another one tomorrow, BUY IT TOO; they quit making them in 1993.


Sure, you will find thousands of dollars needing to be spent; but, that is gonna be with any second-hand vehicle.



As for a park-brake, these will do nicely :


http://www.awdirect.com/dual-lock-mi...ake-locks-pto/




I know on account of several of my trucks have them.
Old 06-05-2008, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLCOAL
How much would a replacement windshield run me?
Got one two years ago when I took mine to be painted. I had some nice stars in it that were - at least stable, but large. When I decided to paint, I got some quotes and then was talking with the paint shop manager - who stated that they could have the glass company come and remove the windshield before painting and then come back and install the windshield after the painting was done... Which is what I did - US $135.00 (with new grommet). worked for me..

Best bet on prices is to call all the glass houses and have them give you a quote.
Old 06-05-2008, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HappyCamper
remove the windshield before painting and then come back and install the windshield after the painting was done...


That is some REAL GOOD ADVICE.


The un-accessible area that the windshield and it's necessary gasketry covers is one of the most rust-prone areas of most vehicles, let alone being a trash-trap, where pine-needles, leaves, bugs, and other stuff gets blown into.



Actually, it would be a good idea to completely remove the windshield of any truck getting new paint, but it never actually happens = too lazy and too broke.


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