P-pump Motor Swap!!! How-to
#1
P-pump Motor Swap!!! How-to
Ok first, this is not for someone with a set of Walmart tools, and a Chilton's manual. You need to be fairly well mechanically inclined, and have to have a good set of metric and SAE sockets, both short and deep well. As well as a multitude of other "specialty" tools, and a good understanding of how your truck is built, works, and comes apart.
Step #1, obtain a Cummins 5.9 12 valve with the p-7100 injection pump. I got mine from ACE pickup parts in Tucson, AZ for $2000 plus tax.
Step #2, Pull your old motor. You will either have to take the wheels off and set the front end down as far as you can get it on some jackstands, or take the hood and core support out, like I did. Before you go cranking on your engine hoist, make ABSOLUTELY SURE everything is disconnected. This means fuel lines, intercooler lines, tranny cooler lines (Auto only), radiator and heater hoses, and all wiring and other lines such as vacuum booster and heater vacuum lines. BE CAREFUL! These motors weigh 745 lbs without tranny and transfer case attached. A harbor freight 1/4 ton lift will not hack it. I removed the engine, transmission, and transfer case as one unit, and separated them on the ground. It helps to have a friend help so you don't mangle anything when you pull it. When you separate the assembly, be careful not to break the clutch disk if it is a manual, or tweak the input shaft if it is an auto, by letting the tranny hang by the input shaft.
more to come....
Step #1, obtain a Cummins 5.9 12 valve with the p-7100 injection pump. I got mine from ACE pickup parts in Tucson, AZ for $2000 plus tax.
Step #2, Pull your old motor. You will either have to take the wheels off and set the front end down as far as you can get it on some jackstands, or take the hood and core support out, like I did. Before you go cranking on your engine hoist, make ABSOLUTELY SURE everything is disconnected. This means fuel lines, intercooler lines, tranny cooler lines (Auto only), radiator and heater hoses, and all wiring and other lines such as vacuum booster and heater vacuum lines. BE CAREFUL! These motors weigh 745 lbs without tranny and transfer case attached. A harbor freight 1/4 ton lift will not hack it. I removed the engine, transmission, and transfer case as one unit, and separated them on the ground. It helps to have a friend help so you don't mangle anything when you pull it. When you separate the assembly, be careful not to break the clutch disk if it is a manual, or tweak the input shaft if it is an auto, by letting the tranny hang by the input shaft.
more to come....
#2
OK, This is what you should be left with. A huge gaping hole where your engine used to be. This is the time to get in here and scrub everything you can, as you can now easily get to everything.
Alright......Step#3, Now that you have both motors sitting next to each other, you can see the subtle differences. You need to swap over all the accessoies from your old motor, to the new motor. AC compressor, alternator, and Fan pulley all need to be swapped.
The power steering pump and vacuum pump are the same, with the exception of the trucks with hydroboost. These trucks had two return lines on the pump. Mine is one of these and I just capped it off for now.
92 PS pump
97 PS pump
The harmonic ballancer needs to be swapped if you plan on running your tach etc. as the 89-93? motors had a smaller balancer, along with the crank sensor, and the spacers. The later motor has a different spacer.
The motor mounts will need to be changed out to the earlier style.
2nd gen
1st gen
Also, the adapter plate between the block and the bellhousing needs to be swapped over along with your starter. There's eight bolts that hold it to the block.
I then bolted the flywheel and clutch assembly to the motor with the bellhousing. I will install the tranny after I get the motor in.
More to come...
Alright......Step#3, Now that you have both motors sitting next to each other, you can see the subtle differences. You need to swap over all the accessoies from your old motor, to the new motor. AC compressor, alternator, and Fan pulley all need to be swapped.
The power steering pump and vacuum pump are the same, with the exception of the trucks with hydroboost. These trucks had two return lines on the pump. Mine is one of these and I just capped it off for now.
92 PS pump
97 PS pump
The harmonic ballancer needs to be swapped if you plan on running your tach etc. as the 89-93? motors had a smaller balancer, along with the crank sensor, and the spacers. The later motor has a different spacer.
The motor mounts will need to be changed out to the earlier style.
2nd gen
1st gen
Also, the adapter plate between the block and the bellhousing needs to be swapped over along with your starter. There's eight bolts that hold it to the block.
I then bolted the flywheel and clutch assembly to the motor with the bellhousing. I will install the tranny after I get the motor in.
More to come...
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