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One wire alternators

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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 07:37 PM
  #16  
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Edwin, is there a write up on this somewhere?

Thanks
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Old Oct 24, 2022 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
When the signal voltage is low at the regulator the system will overcharge.
Thanks for this.

I have probably culled several over-charging regulators that this simple fix would have cured.

I still have a couple engines that have the firewall regulator; I will employ this simple fix some day when I have time and then dig out my box of over-charging regulators and see if they still overcharge.
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Old Oct 25, 2022 | 03:54 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 91.5CTDBanks
Edwin, is there a write up on this somewhere?

Thanks
There is a write up for this in the Stickies.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...solved-317745/

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Old Oct 26, 2022 | 10:54 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cougar
I replaced the isolator with a 30-amp contactor on a toggle switch. Being any of my additional batteries are only on trailers now, I have no need to power that feed unless in use.
Generally that is not adequate. REALLY consider using a continuous duty solenoid.

WHY regulators suck: The really big thing with regulators is, they MUST "see" BATTERY voltage, period. Voltage drop "in the path" will cause overcharging at the very least. Someone mentioned voltage drop "at the ignition switch." This can be gotten around by using a relay to feed loads, and follow up with a multimeter looking for drop, AND DO NOT forget the ground path!! Any connections, terminals, relays, or switches "in the path" can be an issue. If the sense circuit is on some stupidly designed shared conductor, then the load on the circuit will affect sense voltage.

One wire: I am generally NOT in favor on "one wire" systems. One big issue is that the charge wire--which is also the "sense" wire--MUST be substantially oversized so that voltage drop TO the regulator is not an issue. The more amperage drawn, the more of an issue that is

ISOLATORS. I detest and hate, and in fact dislike diode isolators. Just use a good continuous solenoid. "Solid state" isolators in the conventional sense are simply diodes and they ---have--- voltage drop. ONE BIG scenario in which they can be a serious problem is if the "main" leg fails. The main battery will not be charging, yet the regulator will be telling the alternator to charge "full ahead" and--the secondary battery will be or there ---boiling and red hot
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 02:33 PM
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 06:48 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GreyWhale
Generally that is not adequate. REALLY consider using a continuous duty solenoid.

WHY regulators suck: The really big thing with regulators is, they MUST "see" BATTERY voltage, period. Voltage drop "in the path" will cause overcharging at the very least. Someone mentioned voltage drop "at the ignition switch." This can be gotten around by using a relay to feed loads, and follow up with a multimeter looking for drop, AND DO NOT forget the ground path!! Any connections, terminals, relays, or switches "in the path" can be an issue. If the sense circuit is on some stupidly designed shared conductor, then the load on the circuit will affect sense voltage.

One wire: I am generally NOT in favor on "one wire" systems. One big issue is that the charge wire--which is also the "sense" wire--MUST be substantially oversized so that voltage drop TO the regulator is not an issue. The more amperage drawn, the more of an issue that is

ISOLATORS. I detest and hate, and in fact dislike diode isolators. Just use a good continuous solenoid. "Solid state" isolators in the conventional sense are simply diodes and they ---have--- voltage drop. ONE BIG scenario in which they can be a serious problem is if the "main" leg fails. The main battery will not be charging, yet the regulator will be telling the alternator to charge "full ahead" and--the secondary battery will be or there ---boiling and red hot
GreyWhale, what size charge wire would be appropriate for the charge wire on a single wire 100 amp alternator on out first gens?
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 06:58 AM
  #22  
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Talking

Originally Posted by hfletcher
GreyWhale, what size charge wire would be appropriate for the charge wire on a single wire 100 amp alternator on out first gens?
I had an Autozone alternator under warranty. Bearing was going out. Swapped the unit. Before installing, in went the $20 one wire conversion, it uses the factory harness minus one of the factory harness wires on the back of the alternator. Easy peasy.

Ebay has them, here is the one I bought

Amazon Amazon
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 07:38 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rug_Trucker
I had an Autozone alternator under warranty. Bearing was going out. Swapped the unit. Before installing, in went the $20 one wire conversion, it uses the factory harness minus one of the factory harness wires on the back of the alternator. Easy peasy.

Ebay has them, here is the one I bought

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F276B4YS...fed_asin_title
Please excuse my ignorance. I think you are saying this adapter will convert a factory alternator on our first gens into a one-wire alternator, and we don't need the oversized charge/sense wire that greywhale mentioned? (and we don't need to purchase the $300 one wire alternator I've seen discussed in these forums) If that is correct, it's a surprisingly inexpensive upgrade, and I'll definitely follow your lead. My alternator is fine, but I'd like to eliminate dependence on our computer (pcm?), when possible. How long have you been running this successfully?
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 05:17 AM
  #24  
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Smile

Originally Posted by hfletcher
Please excuse my ignorance. I think you are saying this adapter will convert a factory alternator on our first gens into a one-wire alternator, and we don't need the oversized charge/sense wire that greywhale mentioned? (and we don't need to purchase the $300 one wire alternator I've seen discussed in these forums) If that is correct, it's a surprisingly inexpensive upgrade, and I'll definitely follow your lead. My alternator is fine, but I'd like to eliminate dependence on our computer (pcm?), when possible. How long have you been running this successfully?
Yes sir. I got my truck running back in late October, or early November. I have 1800mi on it. It's one page of instructions. I didn't take pictures of it as it was night and was freezing my butt off. What year is your truck?
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 08:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Rug_Trucker
Yes sir. I got my truck running back in late October, or early November. I have 1800mi on it. It's one page of instructions. I didn't take pictures of it as it was night and was freezing my butt off. What year is your truck?
Thanks rug, I'm definitely gonna install that. I tried to add my 1993 D250 vehicle description. I added my vehicle description to my public profile, but that info isn't displaying on my posts. Maybe it takes a while. Also it seems the public profile will only accept so many words, and it won't allow me to list everything.. I've done a number of mods..

Last edited by hfletcher; Mar 18, 2026 at 08:55 AM. Reason: keep remembering mods I've made
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 06:52 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Rug_Trucker
Yes sir. I got my truck running back in late October, or early November. I have 1800mi on it. It's one page of instructions. I didn't take pictures of it as it was night and was freezing my butt off. What year is your truck?
Most of you guys have your vehicle descriptions show on your posts. I can't figure out how to do that. I did add some vehicle info to my public profile but apparently that's different because it doesn't show in my posts. Please advise.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 09:58 AM
  #27  
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hfletcher, after you sign in click on your name at the upper right corner of the screen and go to edit signature, fill it out hit save signature and you should be good to go. You are right it really doesn't allow a lot of space.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 10:19 AM
  #28  
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I have used that Transpo type unit in a few different trucks with mixed results, some it worked like a charm other not so much and it is way cheaper than a 1 wire for sure. Is it only the charging that is giving you problems or are there other electrical problems that cropped up at the same time? Have you tested the crank sensor to see if it is doing its job, as it not working causes many problems.
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 11:27 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by nonrev
hfletcher, after you sign in click on your name at the upper right corner of the screen and go to edit signature, fill it out hit save signature and you should be good to go. You are right it really doesn't allow a lot of space.
Thanks nonrev, I did that. I guess this post will show if it worked. Also, thanks rug trucker, I ordered the alternator wiring adapter you recommended
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 11:54 AM
  #30  
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hfletcher, looks like it worked I see your sig.
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