no start after pump installed and timing jumped
no start after pump installed and timing jumped
to START I HAD A BUDDY FROM BOSCH go though the pump jumped the 1 tooth pt a 3800gsk
this as posted on 1stgen the key did fall out reinstalled it (made sure it was there) re bleed the injectors and im still getting just white smoke more though im not quite sure whats going on, the power to the pump is there its definelty getting fuel bleed it two more times since the key was verified went though and adjusted the valve lash have tried various throttle positions
the injectors have bleen bleed 5 times twice since the key was reinstalled more smok2 at full throttle than idel
this as posted on 1stgen the key did fall out reinstalled it (made sure it was there) re bleed the injectors and im still getting just white smoke more though im not quite sure whats going on, the power to the pump is there its definelty getting fuel bleed it two more times since the key was verified went though and adjusted the valve lash have tried various throttle positions
the injectors have bleen bleed 5 times twice since the key was reinstalled more smok2 at full throttle than idel
I had the same problem getting mine started after IP replacement. Best recommendation I can make is use some ether in the turbo while someone starts it. It took me about 30 seconds feathering the ether but it got things moving for me. Prior to ether I killed the battery about 5 times trying to get it to start itself. Good luck.
My best guess is that the pump is bad out of time.
These engines will bleed and fire almost effortlessly after a pump installation, PROVIDED the pump is oriented correctly with the timing mark.
Did you pour the pump FULL of fuel before trying ??
These engines will bleed and fire almost effortlessly after a pump installation, PROVIDED the pump is oriented correctly with the timing mark.
Did you pour the pump FULL of fuel before trying ??
Field engineering 101, item 1.
a. You walk up to a running machine.
b. You do something to it.
c. It now doesn't run.
Solution: It's what you did.
Trouble's in the gears, or in the pump, or whatever else you might have changed, whether you know it or not.
a. You walk up to a running machine.
b. You do something to it.
c. It now doesn't run.
Solution: It's what you did.
Trouble's in the gears, or in the pump, or whatever else you might have changed, whether you know it or not.
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You have cracked open all the injector lines, and primed the fuel system until fuel is running out of at least 3 of the injector lines? Then tighten the nuts down to one turn short of hand tight....you want the fuel to be able to spray past.
Try cranking it. Watch to make sure your getting a good strong injection pulse...fuel should be squirting every where. If not then you have a fuel delivery problem within the pump. Most common is the throttle control ball has come loose from the fuel control collar...(think that is what they are called???) You need to remove the top of the pump and look down into the pump to see if the collar is still hooked up.
If your getting a good injection pulse then it's probably a matter of throttle indexing, or timing. The pump does not need any special timing...just as long as it's lined up with the keyway in the timing gear.
These motors can sometimes be a bear to clear all the air out of the lines, and prime the fuel system. I know I've always had to hold my foot to the floor, and wait a good 30 seconds or more for the motor to level out and start running smooth.
Try cranking it. Watch to make sure your getting a good strong injection pulse...fuel should be squirting every where. If not then you have a fuel delivery problem within the pump. Most common is the throttle control ball has come loose from the fuel control collar...(think that is what they are called???) You need to remove the top of the pump and look down into the pump to see if the collar is still hooked up.
If your getting a good injection pulse then it's probably a matter of throttle indexing, or timing. The pump does not need any special timing...just as long as it's lined up with the keyway in the timing gear.
These motors can sometimes be a bear to clear all the air out of the lines, and prime the fuel system. I know I've always had to hold my foot to the floor, and wait a good 30 seconds or more for the motor to level out and start running smooth.
Some may disagree...but I say no.
I have had at least a half dozen pump apart...then back together, and I have never been careful with where all the internals were lined up. As long as the main key way is lined up with the timing gear you should be good to go...IMO
I have had at least a half dozen pump apart...then back together, and I have never been careful with where all the internals were lined up. As long as the main key way is lined up with the timing gear you should be good to go...IMO
A few things need to be checked before a definative answer may be found. If you overworked the starter or the battery after you changed your pump attempting to start the engine. Condition of the connections on the bat. and starter. Did you have a catastrofic problem that caused you to change the pump, you may have internal engine resistance. What ever you do DO Not use starting fluid on these engines broken rings and dry crank will cause you alot of greif in the long run, not to mention the heating element if operational will blow the intake plate off. Good luck






