I finally got my pyro today and I couldn't wait to get it installed. As soon as I got it all back together and also got my tach accurately calibrated I took it out on the road.

At about 60 mph in 5th I floored it. The pyro shot up to 1500 degrees with 25# of boost and I let off about 80 mph. My truck will bury the needle of the speedo and keep on going probably tops out at 95-100 mph. Yeah I know - NOT SAFE.

So I figure I need either less fuel or more boost. A BHAF is imperative now. I wonder what kind of numbers I would have got before I upgraded to the WH1C?

Edwin

 

Is your Pyro pre-turbo or post turbo. That's about a 300 degree diff right off the bat.

 

It's pre-turbo in the 4-5-6 hole.

 

Thats why everyone stresses so much about gauges before playing. Hopefully you were smart before and have stayed out of it!

 

I haven't towed anything yet and driving at 100 MPH is frowned on around here so I don't do it much at all. This truck gets up there so quickly and I let off so it doesn't stay hot that long, Maybe 5 seconds.

The PO did some towing because there's a gooseneck ball in the bed but it was very rusty so not recently. When I had the turbo apart the turbine wheel was fine but the person I sold the 18 cm housing to said there were a couple of minor cracks.

I think it was some poor Texas boy who just turned up the pump to much and I know for a fact the smoke screw was screwed down. I haven't looked at the other screws yet.

I may tweak the WG rod some to see what happens but I'm sure the fuel screw will need to be backed off. I'm hesitant to tear into the pump because it runs so well even though it's overfueled.

Check my other tachometer thread and comment on what govenor spring you think I have.

Edwin

 

You definitely need more boost. One of those adjustable boost controllers like Wannadiesel has would be the key. We cold-air-challenged Cummins owners will see about 10psi more for the same cooling 'effect', if you will. We'd have to run 35psi to match the cooling properties of 25psi in an I/C truck. Of course, this isn't linear in any way, and by 35psi we're really adding a lot of heat, but it does help. I've got the 'TurboMaster' wastegate controller and I've played around with it gating anywhere from 15 to 40+psi and it's the most effective at 38psi. With the WH1C, I'd guess you'll be even better off than me if you can adjust it up to about 32psi. The other concern that I've been pondering since I ordered my HTT stage III a couple days ago (whoopie!!!) is the size of the crossover tube. Now, not only are we super-heating the air, we're stepping down from a 2.5'' outlet to a 2'' crossover, forcing the air to go faster yet, heating it even more! I'm planning a 3'' crossover tube using the Freightliner 3'' intake horn I bought from Bill. Now I'll be stepping UP from the 2.5'' comp housing to the 3'' crossover tube---maybe that'll even lose me some boost, which is fine since I hit 37psi with the little compressor housing and the 18.5 yesterday!

 

Hey Greg, you won't lose any boost, you'll just have a little more lag with the big pipe . . .

 

I'm thinking innercooler...

 

Thanks for the comments. I'll need to let my let my finger heal up some more after I whacked it with the hammer before I go tweaking on the WG control rod. How hard is it to adjust and which way should I screw it to get more boost?

Edwin

 

I'd love to have an intercooler but the bucks aren't there. I'm not going to do any serious towing with it for a while and when I do it will be a 30' 5th wheel RV. If I can get some more boost by adj the WG rod and turn the fuel down to a safe EGT and still get adequate performance I'll be happy with it.

Has anyone ever seen an IC that mounts on top of the engine to simplify the plumboing?

Thanks

Edwin

 

what your thinking of mounted on top of the engine isn't a intercooler. Its a aftercooler and the air is cooled by water from a seperate water tank that mus tbe plumbed in.

 

That doesn't sound simpler.

I understand that on the 89 the intercooler won't fit behind the stock grille and an aftermarket grille must be used.

I was considering a Banks setup but I hear that it's to many bucks for what you get. Besides I like to keep things simple if I can.

Edwin

 

No you CAN fit an intercooler behind the stock grill! It just requires some modification to the it, which is basically just trimming it. I've seen a truck with the stock 87 grill and a a/c condensor!! But mind you it is ALOT more work to get the a/c to work with an intercooler on a stock grill. Also in most cases the hood latch must be cut/modified as well.

 

Yes and I have factory air which I'd rather not mess with although right now it needs a new compressor which I lack the bucks for also. Being on the disabled list sure limits the bombing possibilities.

Edwin

 

Water/meth.

Don't sweat the 1500 degrees. For playing around you're not likely to hurt anything. Just don't hang around up there for a long time, and keep a close eye on it when towing.

I'm with Greg on adding some boost, that will help. The controller I have is off Ebay from Lower Shores Performance. Boost goes to 40 psi and stays there until I get off the pedal or the pump defuels. Most of the wastegate actuator pushrods are crimped in place and a RPITA to adjust. The other problem you can run into adjusting them is not getting full opening once you've shortened the rod to raise the boost high enough. The manual boost controller is way simpler to deal with.