Alright, I think I have found out my white smoke problem when it is warming up in the cold. I think it is my KSB solienoid.
How do I test it to see if it is getting power to it?
Does the motor have to be running in order to test it to see how many volts is on the wire?
How many volts should it be getting to it?
What controls it(tells it to turn off and on)?

Thanks for any help/Advice,
Wheelo

 

Use a 12 volt test light. Hook the ground to the battery negative, and poke the terminal on the KSB solenoid with the tip. The light should light if the engine is cold and the rey is in the "run" position. The engine does not need to be running, but the air temp in the intake manifold needs to be below 90 degrees. There ought to be at least 8 volts, some trucks have a ballast resistor in the line. The switch is in the manifold, it's the one closer to the firewall. Should be closed below 90 degrees. Power for the KSB comes off the shutdown solenoid.

 

Is there any way of "rigging" something up such as making it manually controlled at the flip of a switch? Just throwing some ideas in the wind!

 

Yes, you could "hot wire" it to test it. It's not a good idea to run around with it turned on all the time, as it raises internal pump pressure.

 

You can hook it to a standard switch if you like. This is only applicable to I/C models, as non I/C models work kind of in reverse. 59ford (I think) tried the switch and said it lowered egts while towing, but adding timing when working the engine hard is not necessarily an accepted way to cool things off...but neither is his practice of running 1000 degrees POST turbo all the way across PA! These old mills are pretty tolerant of abuse.

 

So thats how they work, regulates fuel pressure. Thanks for all your help today and yesterday!!
Wheelo

 

OK so say the switch is bad but you hot wire the system through a switch in the cab but it still dosen't make much difference on or off. What next?

 

Just a little bit, at idle my pressure goes from 80psi to 120psi when the KSB is on.

Yup, it blocks off the fuel pressure regulator.

 

I guess what I really want to know is if you have bypassed the switch and it still dosent seem to work right how does the solinoid in the IP work. Is there something in there to check. There is almost no change in the way my engine runs with or without the KSB turned on or off. I wouldn't worry about it much but she was a little harder to start this last winter than I liked.

 

I have the same prob. I can hot wire it and nothing happens. It should change right away right? It looks like just a solenoid, and should be either on or off.

 

I think depending on your pump settings you may notice very little when it is on. I can just tell that it gets a little more rattly at idle, But if I drive it its a lot more rattly when its on and quieter when its off. Also when its on the truck goes better at full throttle. I would check for power when cold and then take it for a good drive plugged in and then drive it unplugged. You should hear and feel the difference then. Good luck

 

Where can you get a new switch? Any part numbers? Think mine is bad. Diagnose tomorrow. Does it really kick in at 90 Degrees? Seems really high. lol

 

By 90 deg they mean if the temp in the intake drops below 90 it supplies power to ksb

 

Dodge or Cummins can get you a new switch.

If there is power to the KSB solenoid when the engine is cold, the switch is good.

 

The KSB advances timing until the engine temp gets up to about 100 degrees. It does this to aid cold engine operation. As wannadiesel said it raises internal pump pressure. Timing advance will create white smoke while the engine is warming up. If the white smoke goes away once the engine reaches 100 degrees I would not worry about it. One of the problems that can occur if you have already advanced the timing on the pump itself is a leak on the engine side of the pump ("O" ring) This can occur when you put your foot into the go pedal while the KSB is advancing the timing.

Bob