Issue with grid heater/93 Dodge
Issue with grid heater/93 Dodge
I recently purchased a '93 dodge on Ebay that was equipped with a Greasecar system. I have not utilized the system (which appears to have had no prior use). I intend to remove this system when warmer weather rolls around. I state this as I do not know what mods the prior owner may have made during install.
My immediate issue is that the "wait to start" light stays on for a considerable period of time after starting - even after you hear the typical click in the engine compartment when it should go off. After driving 50 miles in 30 degree weather, The "check engine" light will come on, start to flicker (with increasing frequency) and then both lights go off. I know the grid is energized when this behavior occurs as the voltage indicated on the dash is low and when the WTS and CE lights go out, the needle returns to the "normal" position. The heater does not "cycle" in the manner it should.The problem is obvious - if I don't drive the vehicle a sufficient distance after the lights go out, the battery has insufficient voltage to start the truck. Further - I've actually had instances where the temperature outside dropped into the teens and the grid heater came back on. I blocked the radiator on cold days to insure the engine temperature is in the proper range. Is there a way of disabling the grid heater until I can figure out what is happening? My gut feeling is that the thermostat is stuck open as the truck does not have an issue when temps are above 40.
My immediate issue is that the "wait to start" light stays on for a considerable period of time after starting - even after you hear the typical click in the engine compartment when it should go off. After driving 50 miles in 30 degree weather, The "check engine" light will come on, start to flicker (with increasing frequency) and then both lights go off. I know the grid is energized when this behavior occurs as the voltage indicated on the dash is low and when the WTS and CE lights go out, the needle returns to the "normal" position. The heater does not "cycle" in the manner it should.The problem is obvious - if I don't drive the vehicle a sufficient distance after the lights go out, the battery has insufficient voltage to start the truck. Further - I've actually had instances where the temperature outside dropped into the teens and the grid heater came back on. I blocked the radiator on cold days to insure the engine temperature is in the proper range. Is there a way of disabling the grid heater until I can figure out what is happening? My gut feeling is that the thermostat is stuck open as the truck does not have an issue when temps are above 40.
My immediate issue is that the "wait to start" light stays on for a considerable period of time after starting - even after you hear the typical click in the engine compartment when it should go off. After driving 50 miles in 30 degree weather, The "check engine" light will come on, start to flicker (with increasing frequency) and then both lights go off
.
Have you tested your alternator? is it charging sufficiently?
A low charge status can cause the check engine light to come on, and if the grids are pulling power and the battery is pulling, I could see this happening.
How are you determining this?
.
You can disable the heaters by disconecting the grid heater relays if your sure thats the best fix for you..'
Fill out your signature with all the info on your truck, it will make it easier for folks to offer the best help if you have a question.
I haven't checked the alternator as function appears to be OK - the "recovery time" of the battery is rapid after the grid is no longer energized.
"Cycling" of the grid is not evident on the volt meter. In my other 93 the needle swings and dimming of the lights occurs as it cycles. The needle just stays "buried" until the grid becomes de-energized.
I currently own 2 Gen 1 and an Gen 2 and I familiar with "Normal" behavior when cold starting these trucks. The persistence of the WTS light is observed to be strongly temperature dependent - typically, once the light goes out, the truck will start and the WTS light will behave normally (i.e. go out after a few seconds) without the grid coming on. This behavior only occurs after the truck has been subjected to cold temperatures over night.
I will fill out info on trucks - Thanx
"Cycling" of the grid is not evident on the volt meter. In my other 93 the needle swings and dimming of the lights occurs as it cycles. The needle just stays "buried" until the grid becomes de-energized.
I currently own 2 Gen 1 and an Gen 2 and I familiar with "Normal" behavior when cold starting these trucks. The persistence of the WTS light is observed to be strongly temperature dependent - typically, once the light goes out, the truck will start and the WTS light will behave normally (i.e. go out after a few seconds) without the grid coming on. This behavior only occurs after the truck has been subjected to cold temperatures over night.
I will fill out info on trucks - Thanx
I haven't checked the alternator as function appears to be OK - the "recovery time" of the battery is rapid after the grid is no longer energized.
OK, I'd suggest doing an actual test anyways, see how teh alt and voltage reg are functioning
"Cycling" of the grid is not evident on the volt meter. In my other 93 the needle swings and dimming of the lights occurs as it cycles. The needle just stays "buried" until the grid becomes de-energized.
OK, yes it should swing and lights dim..
I currently own 2 Gen 1 and an Gen 2 and I familiar with "Normal" behavior when cold starting these trucks.
Without that info in your signature, I couldnt know if you're an old hand at these or its your first truck and new to you.. sorry..
The persistence of the WTS light is observed to be strongly temperature dependent - typically, once the light goes out, the truck will start and the WTS light will behave normally (i.e. go out after a few seconds) without the grid coming on. This behavior only occurs after the truck has been subjected to cold temperatures over night.
OK, the grids aren't supposed to engage above 40* so that sounds normal..
I will fill out info on trucks - Thanx
OK, I'd suggest doing an actual test anyways, see how teh alt and voltage reg are functioning
"Cycling" of the grid is not evident on the volt meter. In my other 93 the needle swings and dimming of the lights occurs as it cycles. The needle just stays "buried" until the grid becomes de-energized.
OK, yes it should swing and lights dim..
I currently own 2 Gen 1 and an Gen 2 and I familiar with "Normal" behavior when cold starting these trucks.
Without that info in your signature, I couldnt know if you're an old hand at these or its your first truck and new to you.. sorry..
The persistence of the WTS light is observed to be strongly temperature dependent - typically, once the light goes out, the truck will start and the WTS light will behave normally (i.e. go out after a few seconds) without the grid coming on. This behavior only occurs after the truck has been subjected to cold temperatures over night.
OK, the grids aren't supposed to engage above 40* so that sounds normal..
I will fill out info on trucks - Thanx
sounds like you've already thought of everything I had.. I'd still look at the charging system tho, even if its just to eliminate it..then at your grid relays..
No need to apologize! I'm a tad frustrated as I don't know what mods were made to this truck. It was an auction vehicle prior to Ebay. There are several toggle switches on the dash that I have to decipher when time permits. What is the easiest way to temporarily disable the grid heaters?
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