Installing New Crank Sensor HELP!
Installing New Crank Sensor HELP!
I am going to install a new crank sensor because the wire leading to the Crank Sensor was ripped off by PO. I hope this will help solve my charging, A/c and OD problems. Are there any tricks I need to know to get this thing out or re-install it?? I keep hearing people say that the gap has to be .050 but how do I set this gap and where is the gap supposed to be? As you can tell I am new to all this so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Chad
Chad
I figured I would just go out to my local parts store and just ask for this crank position sensor and he would slap it on the counter and I would be on my way. FALSE. the parts guy has never heard of this part. can someone get me a parts number or tell me where they got theirs and for how much. i couldnt even find it online anywhere. i am totally stumped. i want to get this fixed so bad but i keep hitting walls.
Have you tried your local Cummins shop? If you don't have one close I'm pretty sure you can order parts online. Sorry I don't have any links, but someone will!
As for the installation, it's Simple. The CPS reads (magnetically) the crank position of the engine via two deep grooves in the harmonic balancer. If you have or will remove the balancer it does NOT matter in which way you reinstall it. So, no screwing that one up! And you are correct, the gap needs to be .050" Be sure to use a NON MAGNETIC gapping instrument when setting the gap.
Sorry I couldn't be more help
ETA: You could also go to your friendly Dodge dealer to get the part, but since I'm pretty sure this is a Cummins specific part and NOT a Dodge part per say, they would just order it from Cummins and charge you a huge markup for their troubles!
As for the installation, it's Simple. The CPS reads (magnetically) the crank position of the engine via two deep grooves in the harmonic balancer. If you have or will remove the balancer it does NOT matter in which way you reinstall it. So, no screwing that one up! And you are correct, the gap needs to be .050" Be sure to use a NON MAGNETIC gapping instrument when setting the gap.
Sorry I couldn't be more help
ETA: You could also go to your friendly Dodge dealer to get the part, but since I'm pretty sure this is a Cummins specific part and NOT a Dodge part per say, they would just order it from Cummins and charge you a huge markup for their troubles!
roadbike21- There are 2 bolts holding the crank sensor to the front gear housing. One of the bolt holes in the bracket is stationary, while the other has about 3/4-1" adjustment. Loosen both of them, adjust it to where you need it, tighten the adjustable bolt, then tighten the stationary bolt.
You will find that the parts store guys dont know much beyond brakes and A/C on these old Dodges. That is why sites like this, TDR, and 1stGen are so popular.
Daniel
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CUmmins Gateway in StLouis has shipped me many parts. They are easier to deal with than the Sikeston Mo store, so I pay a little extra for shipping to get better service and attitude.
Guys at Sikeston look at the B-series like the illegitimate black sheep of the Cummins family of engines.
DP
Guys at Sikeston look at the B-series like the illegitimate black sheep of the Cummins family of engines.
DP
Hey guys sorry for the delay in posting. I have found that part it is extremely cheaper to go through Cummins for this part. At the Dodge House $146 and at Cummins just $46. So if you are looking for this part then call Cummins. I do have one more question for you guys that have done this install before. When you installed this item did you take the radiator fan off?? I had a terrible time getting this sensor off and there is NO WAY I can get it back on unless you guys have a very wise trick to doing this. I didnt want to go to the trouble of taking the fan off if I didnt have to. Anyway post back if you have done this before with your suggestions. thanks again in advance
When you installed this item did you take the radiator fan off?? I had a terrible time getting this sensor off and there is NO WAY I can get it back on unless you guys have a very wise trick to doing this. I didnt want to go to the trouble of taking the fan off if I didnt have to. Anyway post back if you have done this before with your suggestions.
Oh, and is your KDP tabbed, pinned, peened, or otherwise been made immobile? If not now would be the perfect time to add some cheap insurance and piece of mind to your truck.
Good luck!
i went to cummins today to get my part and they ordered the wrong part, they gave me the engine speed sensor for the new gen. 3 cummins anyway the part number for our '92 truck for this engine speed sensor as cummins calls it or simply the crank sensor is part #3924432 just in case anyone else ever experiences this same problem

Anyway, roadbike. The KDP is an alignment dowel pin on the front of the block that was used to align the injector case to the block during engine building all those years ago. The thing is one of the alignment dowels has proven itself to have a tendency to back COMPLETELY out of it's original hole! (hence the name, Killer Dowel Pin = KDP) If/when it falls out it cause ALL kinds of damage such as broken teeth on gears, to huge holes in the injector pump case, to total engine lockup!

Do a 1st gen search on KDP and you can read for DAYS! It is fairly rare, but if it does happen your truck is down for a long while and you're out a good amount of money vs. the fix. The fix is CHEAP compared to rolling the dice. Which is why I originally said "added insurance" Not that you'll spend less on your Allstate auto insurance, just that you'll have the peace of mind knowing it's been fixed. And the pinned, tabbed, peened comment was reffering to the many ways to fix the KDP.
As an example, my truck '92 with 230k miles and apparently poorly maintained. The KDP hadn't moved the tiniest bit. But conversely I remember hearing of folks with 75k on theirs and their pin was about to fall out. Too much to leave to chance if you ask me!
Let ME/us know if I can help out more!

Good luck!
Next time the anti-freeze is due for a change I'm gonna go ahead and pull the grill and IC/condensor/radiator for room to work and do the KDP/cover bolts, and replace that fr. seal, belt tensioner and belt. Make it an all day project as 'twere, and hopefully not have to go back in there again for quite awhile.


