I'm going to roll with Bearkiller on this one. Also voltage drop tests can be deceiving. When I worked for Ferd I had an expedition come in with the same symptoms, did a voltage drop test, battery load test, etc. all that came in fine. Even had voltage at the starter after the solenoid with they key in the start position. Replaced the starter only to have the same problem. What had happened was that the inside of one of the battery cables had corroded down to a few strands of wire. It wasn't readily visible on the outside I only found it by chance when prodding a small bulge in the cable with a small screwdriver and it slipped right through dropping a whole crapload of corroded junk out the bottom. Anyhew its most likely not your problem but this issue brought back some good ole memories of frustration =p

 

NV4500 With A bypassed switch. I've sourced some 00 cable today, I'm going to stop by a store and get some brass eyelets and crimp and solder them. I'm really hoping/thinking this is the problem (neg cable). Thats about the only think I really didn't check much. We shal see?

 

So you did bypass the relay on the fender, and the solenoid just clicked? Did it click and drop back out, or did it click and stay in? If you bypassed the realy, it is only the solenoid on the starter & its relay contacts, the two battery cables, and the starter windings.

Did you check your brushes when you had the starter out? You could have good continuity through the field, and nothing through the armature . . .

 

Yes I did check the brushes on both starters and both look "OK". I'm going to replace the neg cable tonight and see what happens. Also forgot to mention that the solenoid wire has no short to ground. Even with it unhooked from the starter and jumping across it still just "clicks". I'm about ready to leave work so we'll see what happens. Either a new truck or this will fix it, reall sucks too I've go a heavy load I need to move this weekend!

 

Fixxed for now. It's patched up til I get it done right. Took your advice(once again) BEARKILLER and added a ground leg or two with way oversized cables, it's ugly but running. And thank you to every one hopping in on this post. The ideas were helping me from doing the unthinkable of going off and buying one of those "truck" with electronic everything. I'm going to add another battery and Isolate it and going to find one of those huge generators that Jim Lane has on his truck and do it up....maybe I've also got an Idea with a corvett generator that is about the same amperage. I'll post back with what I do. Once again THANKS!

 

What were the readings on your fluke doing the loaded volt drop? For main b+ feed, ground, and solenoid while under load of attempting to crank. Anything more than 400mV thats where your problem lies.

 

Just to reinforce......... Imagine your frustration level if even your stupid tail lights had to receive a command from the computer to turn on and off..........

Makes me hug my 12 valve every time I thing about it.

 

Dont start....


The TIPM was designed by Satan himself!

 

I think we should talk about the value of electronic accelerators, has anyone ever put a Prius one on a fist gen? Mark

 

humm....wonder what would happen...

 

it would make the ride a lot smoother, comfortable and enjoyable

 

I get the feeling that we would see a lot of first gens sticking out of buildings, especially when you consider the fine brakes...Mark

 

i like the bipolar answers

 

Lets face it, it's the rig you love to hate, anyone have any Thorazine?

 

well considering... that the other uses for it besides being an antipsychotic are
a part of tetanus treatment.
short term management of severe anxiety and aggressive episodes
occasionally used off-label for treatment of severe migraine.
It has a unique action in cholera, reducing the loss of water by approximately 30 percent.
so Chlorpromazine(Throazine) is basically the perfect drug for 1st genners