How reliable is your 12V 1sr Gen...really
Its happened to me on
54 ford f100 2WD
55 chevy 3/4 2WD
2 or 3 of my scouts (63-68) Dana 27
Gen 1 bronco Dana 30
I'm sure it happens to 44s also.
I thought it was a kingpin thing till saw a 2nd gen dodge wobbling down the road.
It would happen in a 93"If I remember right" chevy box van that the disaster cleanup company I used to work for had. A few times we would be cruising along and it would loose steering and start to wobble. They replaced the struts and it seemed to go away. Would get kinda spooky when it happened.
I think the guy kept driving it so long so it could be recorded, there are lots more where the trucks shake violently but there is a lot bad language going on in the background.
Here is another one where the manufacture denies there is a problem
Looks like some people seem to accept it as the way the truck runs and keep on driving.
Jim
Here is another one where the manufacture denies there is a problem
Looks like some people seem to accept it as the way the truck runs and keep on driving.
Jim
I bought my 92 about 9 months ago. It seemed to be in decent shape and well taken of. The A/C did not work when I bought it, everything else has failed since I bought it. Truck has 185K miles.
Fuel shutoff solenoid
TPS
Complete A/C rebuild
Fan/clutch assembly
New weatherstrip in both doors
Serpentine belt
Battery
Battery tray
Valve cover gaskets
Tranny pan gasket
Tranny mounts
Carrier bearing
Radiator repair
Upper/lower radiator hoses
Cruize control servo
All vacuum lines
Ignition switch
Rear pinion seal
So my question is, is this the way it is with these old trucks...or am I just lucky.
Bill
Fuel shutoff solenoid
TPS
Complete A/C rebuild
Fan/clutch assembly
New weatherstrip in both doors
Serpentine belt
Battery
Battery tray
Valve cover gaskets
Tranny pan gasket
Tranny mounts
Carrier bearing
Radiator repair
Upper/lower radiator hoses
Cruize control servo
All vacuum lines
Ignition switch
Rear pinion seal
So my question is, is this the way it is with these old trucks...or am I just lucky.
Bill
Blew the rear end (I had been playing, but internals were busted up when I bought it), leaks fuel out of the fuel pin no matter how many times I replace the o rings, and polish the pin.
And 3 days ago it died on me while driving to get firewood before snow.... then went wide open throttle towards a gravel/snow covered road.
And it only puts out 270hp
The other one popped a head gasket when I started it up at the store after idling down the hill to get milk. it only puts out 208hp.
Unless YOU maintained the truck since new, there is no absolutely reliable 20 year old truck. With all the money I've put into 1st gens, I could have bought a brand new truck and only have 40k miles on it now. Granted I have a few more 1st gens than most, and I did have some fun playing on them. Currently, I'm getting a little fed up.
I think after all that, I would be more than just "a little" fed up. Like I mentioned earlier in this thread, I've driven mostly old 4X4 trucks. Some gassers, some diesel. I've never had one that after owning it a few months and maybe repairing some little things, that I wouldn't hesitate to get in and drive anywhere. Not this one though. I've owned trucks for 5-6 years that I haven't as much repair work as this one in 9 months. The 12V is a decent engine I guess, but it's wrapped in a never ending failure of a truck.
Bill
Bill
I have ahd my truck about 3.5 years i think now. I love the truck however
resealed injection pump
new lift pump
rebuil injectors
new water pump
all new rear brakes drums shoes springs wheel cylinders
I am currently in the process of rebuilding the tranny with a new shift kit and goerends 300 lower than stall converter
Resealing entire motor
New hydroboost conversion new front springs struts upper and lower control arm bushings new wheel bearings andnew front pads
1989 d350 flatbed stock motor 727 3.07
resealed injection pump
new lift pump
rebuil injectors
new water pump
all new rear brakes drums shoes springs wheel cylinders
I am currently in the process of rebuilding the tranny with a new shift kit and goerends 300 lower than stall converter
Resealing entire motor
New hydroboost conversion new front springs struts upper and lower control arm bushings new wheel bearings andnew front pads
1989 d350 flatbed stock motor 727 3.07
So what do you guys carry in your Death Wobble Survival Kit besides a trash bag for your seat and a change of underwear?
Can you feel it coming on like a twitch or vibration from the road in the steering wheel, or does it just suddenly hit you with no warning?
Here is what Death Wobble looks like. No this is not my truck.
Jim
Can you feel it coming on like a twitch or vibration from the road in the steering wheel, or does it just suddenly hit you with no warning?
Here is what Death Wobble looks like. No this is not my truck.
Jim
Having some buyer's remorse after just purchasing this low-mile 1st Gen. Thought the slow cranking was due to dated, undersized battery. Replaced it and now its NO crank. Time to test the remainder of the starting circuit, to include cables, fuses and relays. Arrgghh.....
I think the guy kept driving it so long so it could be recorded, there are lots more where the trucks shake violently but there is a lot bad language going on in the background.
Here is another one where the manufacture denies there is a problem
Looks like some people seem to accept it as the way the truck runs and keep on driving.
Jim
Here is another one where the manufacture denies there is a problem
Looks like some people seem to accept it as the way the truck runs and keep on driving.
Jim




I love that the news story reports that it's a tie-rod end failure and that Chrysler should fix the frame! WRONG!
Every3rd gen owner with a 2500 and 3500 4x4 on THIS site knows that it's nothing to do with the tie-rod ends. The problems are ball-joints, track bars and steering stabilizers. The factory track bar actually flexes when steering. The trick to eliminating death wobble in a 3rd gen is better, greaseable ball-joints, an aftermarket track bar (Carli is the best, IMHO), PSC or DSS steering box stabilizer and a steering stabilizer (the shock on the tie-rids). In this case, anything but OEM is better.
Here's an update to my rolling wreck, or as I like to call it, the fugitive from the salvage yard, or as my wife calls it, our daughter's college fund, or as my friends call it, cash for clunkers. Took the truck to a guy that knows old trucks very well, especially Dodge. He confirmed what I was told by the other shop, needs complete front end rebuild. Pretty much everything. The guy has a shop (nice shop including lift) behind his house. He's done a bunch of these over the years and I know him to be very meticulous in his work. He says he'll do it for $400.00 labor plus parts. He still gets parts at a discount and won't mark them up to pad the bill. Says he'll use only top notch, quality parts. I said "have at it". So, he's in the middle of it now. Total on should be under $1000.00 for complete front end rebuild. Could be worse, I guess.
Bill
Bill
i've owned mine for about a year. flew out to cali from austin tx, truck sight unseen other than good pix, picked it up from the seller and drove it back to austin tx in a day and a half. only thing i have done to it is a new radiator and full coolant flush. bonus time will bring full brake job top to bottom, new springs, and a full front end rebuild. should be good for another 200k.
mine has been reliable except for lousy work Ive paid for.
new head gasket(supposed to have been fixed, shop put in a felpro failed about 40k later, bone stock)
timing case(said shop put on pig putty on cracked case)
the head gasket and dowel pin happened to my dad in like 02, one of the reasons i wanted the truck, thought it was good.
1 new 70 hub to hub(few months before it exploded a power lock was installed, incorrectly)
new 70 started clunking, warrantied.
rebuilt 205
rebuilt getrag, then warrantied for a bad syncro, now great
new oem valair clutch, new slave and master, pivot ball, clutch fork, crossmember bushings
water pump and alternator preemptively
battery, cables,
new to me turbo from greed93.
steering box
all front end parts. new front driveline. rebuilt pump. The only time ive been on the side of the road was a few years ago, it was my fuel tank pick up, likes to suck dry with like 6 gallons left. ofc mark helped me out. and when the 70 let go on the drive up here, but that s why you have a 60 and high range. there is always something wrong with my truck needs a bunch of electrical. sorry for the long post.
new head gasket(supposed to have been fixed, shop put in a felpro failed about 40k later, bone stock)
timing case(said shop put on pig putty on cracked case)
the head gasket and dowel pin happened to my dad in like 02, one of the reasons i wanted the truck, thought it was good.
1 new 70 hub to hub(few months before it exploded a power lock was installed, incorrectly)
new 70 started clunking, warrantied.
rebuilt 205
rebuilt getrag, then warrantied for a bad syncro, now great
new oem valair clutch, new slave and master, pivot ball, clutch fork, crossmember bushings
water pump and alternator preemptively
battery, cables,
new to me turbo from greed93.
steering box
all front end parts. new front driveline. rebuilt pump. The only time ive been on the side of the road was a few years ago, it was my fuel tank pick up, likes to suck dry with like 6 gallons left. ofc mark helped me out. and when the 70 let go on the drive up here, but that s why you have a 60 and high range. there is always something wrong with my truck needs a bunch of electrical. sorry for the long post.




