Originally Posted by ClassA4x4
(Post 3180408)
I thought the oem radiator was sufficient for a 12k# rig. At this late stage, it's gonna be difficult to retrofit a bigger or odd sized radiator.
It always ran on the hot side after the conversion when doing a long hard climb. The only stuff blocking the radiator are the intercooler, ac condenser, and aux trans cooler with fan., the grille is pretty wide open. If the rad is undersized, i wanna look for a way to compensate or supplement it. I think airflow might be the problem - the doghouse design - but I can't do much about it, other than use external devices to aid the airflow and/or lower the temps. How about installing down-facing exhaust fans underneath both rear corners of the doghouse? The fans would blow trapped hot air down to the sides of the trans bell housing. |
Radiator should be big enough. Tape (or use an aluminum filled epoxy )a thermocouple to the in and out fittings on the radiator, with a little insulation taped over them, then check the temps under running conditions. I'm willing to bet the outlet side is hotter than it should be. It takes a lot of airflow through the radiator stack to keep things cool.
Theoretically, it should take less radiator to cool a diesel than a gasser. I would..... 1. Ditch the clutch fan and install electric fans. 2. If not enough, install a frame mounted fan assisted transmission cooler. |
Originally Posted by j_martin
(Post 3180524)
?..
2. If not enough, install a frame mounted fan assisted transmission cooler. |
The picture of the cooler stack reminded me of some testing I did in Death Valley a few years ago. We were running Ford transit vans up and down the hill out of Stovepipe Wells and the vans would over heat halfway up the hill. We tried putting ice on the top of the radiators, running the heaters (lots of fun when it's 128 degrees) and everything else we could think of and nothing worked until we took the hoods off (the hood was only about 12 inches deep). After that they would run right up the hill at full tilt and not go above the normal operating temp. Those vans had a closed back dog house similar to what your MH has. Something about the areodynamics on those things caused the air to stack up under the van and make it over heat.
As a test perhaps you could do something like we did (I don't know what the options are on your MH) or make a run with the doghouse off and the windows open and see if it changes anything. You might try removing the partition as well for test purposes. If it fixes it you could relocate the air filter to a cooler location. |
Originally Posted by ClassA4x4
(Post 3180527)
Do you mean relocate the front-mounted aux trans cooler to frame-mounted?
Like brainfade said, I think airflow is probably the key, and close fitting electric fans would probably overcome some of the aerodynamics issues. |
Is there any room to install a remote fan cooled radiator in side compartment?
Everything in front of your radiator produces more heat as the load increases, move as much as possible out of the air stream or provide excessive ram air for them, Ford Taurus fans move more air than aftermarket. Is there an airfoil/ spoiler under the chin to direct air into the radiator, and how about directing the air out of the engine compartment? Just a few inches can really screw up the aerodynamics of a vehicle. |
Originally Posted by ClassA4x4
(Post 3180440)
The fan blows into the cooler. I don't see why a front mounted fan would blow otherwise. Maybe it's blowing all the trans heat into the radiator :-) it'll probably help if i relocate the tranny cooler somewhere.
If you can relocate that cooler then its going to be better, as you say, the heat that is being pulled out of the trans is going back into the intercooler and radiator. |
Originally Posted by Jim Lane
(Post 3180559)
Is there any room to install a remote fan cooled radiator in side compartment?
Everything in front of your radiator produces more heat as the load increases, move as much as possible out of the air stream or provide excessive ram air for them, Ford Taurus fans move more air than aftermarket. Is there an airfoil/ spoiler under the chin to direct air into the radiator, and how about directing the air out of the engine compartment? Just a few inches can really screw up the aerodynamics of a vehicle. I think I can find room to relocate the trans cooler underbelly. I think this should be the first mod to make. The see if I can do the same with the A/C condenser. Then only the intercooler will be blocking the radiator. And no, there is no air dam under the grille. It's taken by the 17.5k# winch. Brainfade, I'll experiment driving it without the partition. I wonder how the intake will react to a warmer air. I can create a tunnel for the air intake later f the experiment proves the partition is keeping the heat. |
It sounds like your on the right track now. Also have you been running A/C while it's getting hot?
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I have a old ford tractor that does a lot of work chipping wood. It's job is to run a hydraulic chipper, it's a diesel engine. The radiator is a big boy but there are hot days were I have to check the gauge as it will get way to hot and I'll idle her to cool it down. I ended up tossing the thermostat to see how that would help the old beast. She hasn't ran hot ever since.
Maybe something to try? I know you have a tranny and other moving parts so maybe it won't help. |
Originally Posted by bannerd
(Post 3180642)
I have a old ford tractor that does a lot of work chipping wood. It's job is to run a hydraulic chipper, it's a diesel engine. The radiator is a big boy but there are hot days were I have to check the gauge as it will get way to hot and I'll idle her to cool it down. I ended up tossing the thermostat to see how that would help the old beast. She hasn't ran hot ever since.
Maybe something to try? I know you have a tranny and other moving parts so maybe it won't help. If there's a large temperature drop across the radiator, you have a water circulation problem. If the temperature drop is small, you have radiator or cooling air problem. |
See if you can make a spoiler / air dam under the radiator area. Even if you have to fit it around the winch. This would force more air through the rad and or out the sides of the MH, at the same time maybe creating lower pressure under the MH thus drawing air out of the radiator and doghouse. It could be very simple at first, to see if it helps. Then build a nice one later if it works. Sometimes they even help fuel mileage.
I'd try another temp gage too. Just to be sure. Ray |
Try a product called "Water Wetter" made by Red Line.
Add a bottle to the coolant, it works good. It helps the coolant transfer heat faster. I used to have a small block chevy hot rod, would always overheat with the AC on. After the treatment my coolant stayed at 190 |
Is there an air dam under the front bumper? This can work well ,as it directs air entry and exit.
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Originally Posted by greendodge
(Post 3180666)
See if you can make a spoiler / air dam under the radiator area. Even if you have to fit it around the winch. This would force more air through the rad and or out the sides of the MH, at the same time maybe creating lower pressure under the MH thus drawing air out of the radiator and doghouse. It could be very simple at first, to see if it helps. Then build a nice one later if it works. Sometimes they even help fuel mileage.
I'd try another temp gage too. Just to be sure. Ray |
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