Hello everyone I didn't see this when I searched, so here goes. I replaced the switch and still have the same problem.....I have headlights but no dash, or taillights! What gives?

I can wiggle the on/off **** and dash and taillights will come on as long as I'm holding the ****, as soon as I let go they go off again. This was the case with the old switch as well.

Can someone help me with this?


Thanks, Tony

 

I would be willing to bet it is in the connector then. Look closely for signs of it getting hot.

 

did you replace the connector? Because I would bet it is the connector...Should replace both at the same time because you never know what it melted on the connector if the switch gets too hot.

 

connector......hmmmm.....no I didn't replace it! I still have all apart I'll check it out.

Thanks, Tony

 

I had the exact same problem and replaced both...Now working great

 

Okay thanks everyone. The switch connector I'll have to cut and rewire correct?

 

When I worked for Dodge there was an updated switch plug with a relay for the marker lights

 

Now that would be a part number to go into the sticky parts list.

 

Ill try to track it down

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2

 

I just fininshed wiring in the NEW headlight switch connector....(BWD brand)
and still have the same problem! I can wiggle the on/off **** and the dash and taillights come on......aggravating to say the least.

Another thing are the headlights wired into the grid heaters?

If anyone has anything else to offer please do.

Thanks, Tony

 

You may simply have gotten a bad switch. There is a paper-backed rheostat that governs the "dim" function of the headlight switch. My experience with the replacement switches from NAPA and O'Reilly's both is that they are often faulty. I had issues with the dash/running lights like that and it turned out to be the rheostat was bad. Took three switches to get a good one.
Also you may want to try removing the headlight switch lever and re-inserting it, to ensure it is centered and fully inserted.
No they arent, the dimming of lights while the heater grids are cycling is simply the power draw on the electrical system and is normal.

 

Chrisreyn, thanks for the input I'll check it out.

Tony

 

Well I got it back to where I started. The new switch is trash! When I put the stem in it, the stem is way loose....plum sloppy, so I'm taking it back. I'll keep the new connector as it has bigger gauge wires than the original.
I'll keep you all posted.
Thanks, Tony

 

my experiance with the BWD brand from oriellys has been terrible. was replacing a inner fender mounted selinoid on my 73 ford one time, and when I was just about finished my pickup started and took off all by itself. pulled an old rusty one off a parts truck and it still works fine. They don't make the floor mounted dimmers worth a darn either.

 

Haultruck u got a brand u recommend?