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I just tightened up the turnbuckle on the WG so it won't open at all. I have defuled the engine to where I make around 30 PSI and called it good to go. The turbo spools fast and is very good at keeping the EGTs lower than my H1C with I/C 54 and 14 hot side housing.
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I'm not sure how I'm going to run the waste gate. lots of good info though thanks to all. What about that 20$ boost controller.
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Can anyone tell me the difference between an HE351CW, HE351VE and an HE351VGT? I know i guy selling a HE351VGT off of his '08. Can i mod it to work on my '93?
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The cw is the he351cw is pre vgt
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/2692/1003026w.jpg HE351VE (VGT) http://vgturbos.50megs.com/images/picture_010.jpg HE351VGT http://vgturbos.50megs.com/images/picture_014.jpg Pictures are worth 1000 words? The VE and VGT look to be the same |
The he351cw is the way to go IMO. The vgt & ve take way more fabrication to work. You have to control the variable section of turbo. Check other posting on this and other forums- even utube
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When swapping to a he351cw should I get an exhaust elbow for that turbo also?
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Originally Posted by dkimmel
(Post 2715002)
When swapping to a he351cw should I get an exhaust elbow for that turbo also?
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just plug the solenoid and use a hose clamp on the WG hose to regulate boost.Done[guitar]
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i like the hose clamp idea, I'm in the middle of this swap my self. Trying to find a flange for the turbo. I have a 4" 6"90* elbow and 4" 12"90* Going to weld a flange onto the short 90(if i can find it), then add as needed... Maybe just turn it up...where the hood would be...I need to find my local laws on exhaust and engine compartment. If a hood is "required"... because i've seen a few corvettes and hot rods driving around without them.
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Here is a $20 boost controller. Just search on Ebay. I found one for $7 that looked slightly different for my old Mercedes 300D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADD-M...item3c9b4f0af6 All it is, is a spring pushing against a ball bearing that is sealing a small hole that the boost is pushing against. There is an adjustable screw behind the spring to add more or less force. When the boost pushing against the ball bearing overcomes the force of the spring, it starts to let some of the air through and push on the wastegate. However, there is a small orifice (hole) that bleeds a very small about out. I mean REAL small. This releases air pressure on the wastegate when you let off the throttle and the ball bearing reseats, so it's not trapped in there. Works great, and REAL easy to adjust and fine tune. |
Originally Posted by dzl_damon
(Post 2715259)
Here is a $20 boost controller. Just search on Ebay. I found one for $7 that looked slightly different for my old Mercedes 300D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADD-M...item3c9b4f0af6 All it is, is a spring pushing against a ball bearing that is sealing a small hole that the boost is pushing against. There is an adjustable screw behind the spring to add more or less force. When the boost pushing against the ball bearing overcomes the force of the spring, it starts to let some of the air through and push on the wastegate. However, there is a small orifice (hole) that bleeds a very small about out. I mean REAL small. This releases air pressure on the wastegate when you let off the throttle and the ball bearing reseats, so it's not trapped in there. Works great, and REAL easy to adjust and fine tune. |
Originally Posted by PapeCAT
(Post 2715016)
nope, better to just put the downpipe right onto the turbo without the 45 degree elbow.
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nope you'll need to weld the adapter on there or use two Vband clamps like I did:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...14&postcount=9 |
:cool:I got my turbo today in the mail. Now it's time to start the install.
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Can I use my oil lines or need to get new ones?
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