he351cw swap
 

After reclocking both sides of the turbo, what should do with the electronic sensor, leave it or what.

Leave it if you have no clearance issues with it. You can plug it, ATS $ell$ a plug for 55 bucks.... But even then you will loose the inlet to the wastegate boost hose and you'll have to tap the compressor housing for a manual 1/4 npt boost elbow to re enable wastegate.

I saw another guy with a better idea for sale for 40 bucks, it is a plug for the sensor port with a 1/4" npt port on the end....

wire the sensor to a ignition hot circuit. this will give you 32 psi boost. you only get 20 psi if you do not. it is not a sensor but a solenoid that is in a boost elbow configuration. i modified mine to make it mechanical and adjustable

I never knew it would do that if you left it connected. Good to know.

How did you modify iy to make it adjustable?

i cot it into with a chop saw 5/8 of an inch above the square nut. next i cut the outer portion down about even with the top of the square nut with a dremel. the stainless steel center sleeve will take a 1/8 npt. i threaded the sleeve and got a fitting used to connect a oil pressure gage up. it is 1/8 npt male by i/16 or 1/8 copper pipe. i threaded the hole in the fitting to accept a 4-40 screw i tapered a screw and placed a lock nut on it and screwed it into the fitting. with the screw closing the center hole you have 20 psi boost open it up and you have about 36. with the 40 tpi screw you can set it at any setting in between

change cot to cut and change pipe to tubing. should read before sending

Your signature says you have a 2006. This is for a 1st gen set up? I thought adjusting the wastegate spring or a boost controller will change our boost settings.

dkimmel is installing a he351cw turbo from a 04.5 to a 07.4 on his first gen truck. this is a very good turbo swap. i run a fleet of dodge trucks but for my personal use i have a 12valve 98 with a camper on it and a 06 with a 5th wheel hooked to a travel trailer and drive a 06 company truck with a goos neck setup. i have several 1st gen trucks some with over 1,000,000 miles on them and our own shop for repairs. that is why i surf all generations. i wanted to do the turbo swap for about a year and when i changed the turbo on the 06 to a 62 65 13 ss it gave me the 351 to play with. the 351 uses the solenoid as a fixed boost controler in there scheme of smog controll. by keeping the solenoid energized he can get a max of 32 psi boost, that is about where the turbo approaches 1 to 1 on drive to boost ratio. this turbo on a 1st gen in my opinion is the best. it spools very fast and will support a reasonable increase in hp with a very high efficiency rating

Which wire gets powered up from ignition. Or is ir better to go the mechanical way?

I was thinking about this too... the solenoid seems to be closed when on and open when off. I can't confirm this, but i figured it was a momentary switch to keep boost in check, allowing it to open the waste gate when the computer deems necessary(for fuel mileage or emissions).

As for how to hook it up, being DC It should work either way, i just used a gator clip and test light to a battery and it clicked for me, i was unsure if it was 100% duty rated and didn't leave it connected for long because i was afraid of burning up a part that looks expensive and very hard to remove in one piece(mines rusted real bad).

I believe any solid blue wire is 12v with ignition.

Can i wire it up uninstalled and watch the plunger. Will I want it out?

If your wastegate is disconnected, then the wire won't even do anything right?

I'd just put a manual boost controller for $20 and then you can dial it in to anywhere you want. But I guess this is a freebie... I don't know how it knows to open with a constant 12v voltage. I guess the pressure must just overcome the force of the solenoid...