Well I've had this problem where my turn signals stop working and all my gauges shut off (except the lights and the boost gauge since its mechanical) and the Brake light and ABS light come on in the message center. I had this issue about a year or so ago and I would just wiggle the fuse panel and then it would be normal again. It has been fine for quite a while but the past few days it has started doing it again and its driving me nuts. I have all of my gauge's power and lights tied into the Tach which gets it's power and light from the tach plug. The lights will stay on in my gauges so thats what makes me think that it is a ground or power problem that is shorting out or not getting good contact somewhere. I leave the fuse panel plate off and just wiggle the wires when it acts up but now its getting to the point where you have to hold your mouth just right to get it to work again til I hit another bump

I just installed an Airdog II and I know its sucking more power now. When I go out to start my truck when its colder, my truck barely turns over and gets started since I have the electric pump coming on when I turn on the key, and then the grid heaters kick on and suck a lot of power down. I think its time for a new battery or alternator or both, but if its cold and my grid heaters kick on, my gauges go haywire and bounce around or sit at the bottom and then come back up to normal once the grid heaters turn off. I know the grids suck a lot of power but it seems like it does this more now that I have this electric lift pump. So I'm wondering if I just don't have enough juice to run them? or if my gauge/turn signal issue is from a short or bad connection. It seems like something isn't getting a good connection in the fuse box but i've looked at both sides of it and pulled a few fuses and swapped them and pulled my blinkers out of the box and put them back in and hasn't seemed to change. The weird thing is that my signals won't work and the ABS and brake light comes on when this happens?

I know that sometimes my tach and pyro used to bounce when I turned on the signals to the same pulse of the signal til I turned them off? Wondering if I ought to just get a whole new fuse box? but doesn't look fun to swap and reconnect all the wires over
Any Ideas? thanks.

 

No, I wouldn't want to change over the whole fusebox. There will be a concrete problem in there that is fixable. You just have to find it. I suspect there is a fuse terminal that doesn't grip the blade of a fuse tightly enough. What you need to do is cut apart a fuse and make a terminal gauge out of one of the blades. Remove every fuse, one by one, and slide your single fuse blade in and out of each terminal, holding it with a pair of needle nose pliers. If there is a terminal that doesn't have a lot of tension, you can bend the terminal's tangs slightly tighter with a jeweller's screwdriver.

 

I would put on a new ground cable at the battery. Ground the body to the frame with something heavy too. Grounds ..grounds...grounds are where I found my most trouble over the years.

 

if it is a fuse terminal, you can flip it over to visibly see a melted or loose connection, if the windshield leaks, it could compromise the connection with moisture, again visible, the fuse links feed multiple circuits, you really need to look at a schematic to see the circuit grouping, to find relative circuit trouble, like the posters said,check grounds, make sure the battery is strong, then isolate the gremlins, before the isolate you.