I need to reinstall the getrag back ON but since I've never done it I don't' know what is best. Do I install the tranny with the bell housing bolted to it or first install the bell on the engine and then put the tranny behind it? Keep in mind this is a ford cummins swap and I only know how to take it apart so any tips on how to put it back ON will help.


Thank You.

 

Don't know about on a Ford but on my 2wd D250, the clutch and pressure plate go on to the flywheel, then the bell housing, clutch arm, and throwout bearing go on, then the transmission goes in.

 

Thank You, I got everything installed but the tranny I was just wondering since this one is a bit heavier than the zf it is easier to handle if I don't have the bell attached to the front of the tranny when I'm trying to fit it IN.

 

Yep, it's heavy but not as bad as a NV5600 I hear. Without the bell will be easiest. Not sure if you can even do it with the bell because of the clutch arm and throwout bearing but then again, anything may be possible.

 

I second that one

I installed the getrag for the first time after the auto came out, flywheel, clutch/pp bellhousing / fork throwout bearing / pp alignment tool then finally, with a trans jack, rolled the getrag in and pushed it in, I ended up getting it to slide in , then started the bolts, and just evenly tightened the trans up into the bellhousing.

don't forget to get the flywheel machined out to install the ball bearing input shaft bearing and get rid of the bushing.

 

like most have said, without the bellhousing is much easier. the hardest part is the last 3/4" where the input shaft is going into the pilot bushing (or unpgraded bearing as mentioned.) Dont pull it in with the bolts until you are sure the input shaft is in the bushing. It takes a little grunt, but its doable.

 

Yep it sure is hard. I have trouble pushing and moving it side to side at the same time I'm at the last 3/4 inch but can't get it to slide IN I think it gets stuck on the input shaft retainer.I can start the bolts but I didn't feel it was right to pull it IN with that way.
I didn't machine the flywheel since the clutch and pressure plate is still good and I didn't know about the bearing until after I got the new bushing but it lasted many years with the first one I think it should be fine with a new one so maybe next time I order one. The zf-5 comes with the bearing from factory so it seemed odd this one would not have one at first. I did put some bearing grease at the end of the input shaft I read somewhere it was necessary.

 

try to have someone push the clutch in and let it out slowly while you push the trans in, help for me.

 

Careful not to put too much grease in that pilot bushing or it will hydrolock and push the bushing back out as you push the shaft in. Depending on how much grease you used, that may be the resistance that you are feeling.

 

If I remember right during your rebuild your input shaft bearing race was pretty worn. If you had replaced it, use the old input shaft as your alignment tool to make sure the clutch plate is in line, then torque down the pressure plate. After that it should slide in, you may need to push it in with your foot if you are working on the ground.

 

You are right and I did replace it. I will try and pull it back then remove the bell and re align the clutch but I did use an alignment tool before still the input shaft is as accurate as it could ever be so I'll try that too. I tried pushing it with y legs but for the kind of pressure I'm putting in it then it should be IN by now so something must be out of alignment. It rained fr the last 3 days here and I'm doing it outside on the driveway so I'll have to wait and give it a try later.

Thank You.

 

Just a reminder of the obvious, measure the distance between each bolt hole and the bell housing to make sure that you are square/even as you go in. Alignment is the biggest issue with these for me.