Getrag hard to shift into reverse, 1 and 5th...
 

Clutch not releasing fully.

I'd flush the hydraulics for the clutch, and see if it makes a difference.

When I had this problem, it was a bad pilot bushing. I thought the shifter was going to break a few times trying to get it into reverse...Mark

Exactly like that. when I pulled the tranny the pilot bushing literally fell out of the flywheel. if you haven't had the tranny out in a while, maybe a clutch, pressure plate, tob, rear main crank seal and a new bushing. There are also some threads about machining the flywheel and installing a ball or roller type bearing...Mark

Also check the area where the clutch pushrod attaches to the pedal. The hole in the pushrod wears and the pivot does too. Loss of throw in the master cylinder would not allow the slave cylinder to push the throwout bearing far enough. Couple of repair options in sticky.

This was exactly what I mentioned to Jaysen, when he called me yesterday afternoon.
Check that the nylon bushing at the end on the rod on the slave cylinder as if it breaks away or wears off it limits your maximum throw.
A worn "pocket" in the clutch fork will do the same.

I would also recommend to check the fluid level in the trans like Mark said and make sure it is NOT full of gear oil. I have seen a lot of Getrags ruined due to using gear oil in cold temps.
They are spec'ed out for 5W-30, I have also heard of people in hot areas use 10W-30 for a little better protection when things get hot.
I use Mobil-1 5W-30 myself in my Getrags with PTO cooler plates and a full QT. over full.

I had this problem which caused the starter interlock to not engage. I solved it with a new MC with an unworn eye and by the application of JB-Weld to the shaft on the pedal that engages the MC. I put the new plastic bushing over the JB-Weld and let it set before assembling the rest. SO far it's holding but if the JB-Weld breaks loose I'll have to look at a more permanent fix like welding and filing. I also replaced the slave cylinder and the plastic line between the cylinders.

About the only thing I haven't replaced in my driveline is the rubber on the pedal. [laugh]

Edwin

I hear your truck has a loose nut behind the wheel[laugh]

Three actually! But who's counting. :D

I was wondering if somebody had put gear oil in your tranny. You might want to drain it and replace it with 5 quarts of 5W40 synthetic motor oil or ATF at the least. ATF is what Mopar specifies actually. If you have a 4X4 you may have a bad seal between the tranny and the transfer case.

Edwin

I think 5W-30 was what was spec'ed from Dodge. but that is from word of mouth, not textbook.
The mouth the words came from was pretty reliable though...

If it sticks in 5th all the time I would think you have a problem with the top cover and / or shift forks.
I could see a clutch problem that lead to jamming or getting it stuck it in gear that lead to a bend shift fork.

Here is a screen shot of page OH-2 of the 89 Dodge Diesel Supplement which I got from Geno's. NOTE: It says that if ATF not available use 5W30 engine oil. I think the 5 in 5W30 is the crucial part so that the bearings get lubed when the trans is cold. I plan to use 5W40 for my next change.

Edwin

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...c3663cb1c0.png