Fuel shut off plunger questions
Fuel shut off plunger questions
I read the sticky and it helped allot. I am working on a 92 auto that I just bought recently. The owner had a problem where it would not shut off, indicating a stuck or bad plunger. He had to kill it with the lever and then he went to a repair shop and they said it was a bad ignition switch. The truck will not crank with the key and the gauges don't work right. It could be both things broke near the same time....
I unplugged the starter lead by the battery and jumped it and it fired up and idled for 20 min. with no hot wire to the plunger or anything. It died on the way home and would not start even with a jumper wire to the plunger. At home, I bled the injectors and I eventually got it running and have started it with the jumper wire to start it to move the truck 3 times and all was fine.
Tonight I was moving the truck and then it died again when I was revving it to get up an incline as the tranny or T/Q is shot. It will not start even jumping the plunger with a hot wire.
Questions, finally....
If the plunger is bad and torn and stuck shut, would it start and run but starve of fuel and die when revved higher and need the injectors bled?
If I understand it correctly, the plunger is normally closed with no juice to pull it open, but can break and get stuck open and not shut off or be stuck shut and not start or run. It can also be shut but be torn and not kill the engine. Correct?
I tried to remove it to inspect it but it is super tight. I read that my options are to cut off the plate on the back of the pump for more room or use a punch or chisel on the nut area. It got too dark and I quit!
Any advice is welcome.
I unplugged the starter lead by the battery and jumped it and it fired up and idled for 20 min. with no hot wire to the plunger or anything. It died on the way home and would not start even with a jumper wire to the plunger. At home, I bled the injectors and I eventually got it running and have started it with the jumper wire to start it to move the truck 3 times and all was fine.
Tonight I was moving the truck and then it died again when I was revving it to get up an incline as the tranny or T/Q is shot. It will not start even jumping the plunger with a hot wire.
Questions, finally....
If the plunger is bad and torn and stuck shut, would it start and run but starve of fuel and die when revved higher and need the injectors bled?
If I understand it correctly, the plunger is normally closed with no juice to pull it open, but can break and get stuck open and not shut off or be stuck shut and not start or run. It can also be shut but be torn and not kill the engine. Correct?
I tried to remove it to inspect it but it is super tight. I read that my options are to cut off the plate on the back of the pump for more room or use a punch or chisel on the nut area. It got too dark and I quit!
Any advice is welcome.
For your electrical power problem, check the fusible links in the wiring harness under the drivers hood hinge. Do this before you condemn the ignition switch.
I took the throttle bracket loose and put a cutoff wheel in my 4" grinder and was able to easily cut the top of that bracket off.
I think I would put a new fuel filter on it. A clogged filter would allow it to idle but not be able to rev and then need injectors purged.
I took the throttle bracket loose and put a cutoff wheel in my 4" grinder and was able to easily cut the top of that bracket off.
I think I would put a new fuel filter on it. A clogged filter would allow it to idle but not be able to rev and then need injectors purged.
I took your good advice and took off the bracket and cut the plate. The plunger and spring look perfect! I gutted it, put it back together, jumped the starter and it fired right up. I drove around the yard a little and the motor revs high as the tranny is slipping badly.
If the rubber part of the plunger looks fine, then my problem must be in the electrical part of it. Correct?
If sometimes it would start and run with no 12V to it and then later it would not start or run WITH 12V to it with a jumper wire, it has to be either sticking or a bad electrical coil. Correct?
If the rubber part of the plunger looks fine, then my problem must be in the electrical part of it. Correct?
If sometimes it would start and run with no 12V to it and then later it would not start or run WITH 12V to it with a jumper wire, it has to be either sticking or a bad electrical coil. Correct?
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