Hello all!!! So yesterday I made my first pump mod. As money is super tight right now I do not as of yet have gauges so Im not getting into any of the max power settings or anything like that. I did, however rotate my fuel pin 90 degrees and its like driving a different truck. I think the pin was sticky in the first place but now driving around town is effortless and even moderate passing of people on the highway is a whole lot easier. My question is with this mod am I in danger of big increase in egts? Also, I am ordering my 3200 spring tomorrow and the same question applies to that. Like I said no gauges (except oil psi) yet and I'd rather drive the truck bone stock then risk burning something up... Thanks guys you are all great. This forum has become my home page on my browser...If I could pay bills through here Id probably never go anywhere else on the net!!

 

i put an after market pin in and that didnt effect my egts so i wouldnt think that turning the stock one would.

 

Turning the stock fuel pin is pretty safe, and as long as you put the fuel screw back in the same place the 3200 RPM spring won't make things any hotter.

 

Is this truck an auto or 5 speed?

Yea the fuel pin and Star wheel adjustment and a little timing bump does wonders! Thats what wanna^ did to our truck for the first mod and it was awesome. Then came the 3200 spring, then it was so awesome we wanted more power!

 

bump the timing up you will be infor a treat!!!!!!

 

Thanks wanna, Thats what I was hoping and I'm going to try and do the spring with out moving the fuel screw using the wire trick in the sticky.


The truck is an automatic sorry I didnt think to put that in there, sig updated!!!

You guys are awesome I love this forum... If I dont read something new on here every night I feel like my day was missing something lol! Hopefully Ill have more to contribute as my mods start to increase!! And I will get pictures of my truck as soon as I get a blasted digital camera!

 

When you guys are talking about bumping the timing you mean moving the pump towards the head about an 1/8 inch right? At least thats the common number I seem to remember...

 

yes that what we do

 

Okay Im gonna ask one more question as I am planning on doing the 3200 spring tomorrow. I have been studying all the pictures I can find on here of the throttle shaft and the throttle lever. The way I see it, I can put myself out of driving the truck for a few days with one very simple error. First, I see the importance of marking the ticks on the lever in relation to the shaft. What I cant see is how the shaft indexes in the pump top. When you remove the break over spring and then the lever, from what I have been reading the shaft itself can be pushed into and out of the top and from what I can tell there is no such thing as a master spline on the shaft so to speak. If that so happens to me, I can see tomorrow being a long day. Any info would be much appreciated. I will, however, mark that shaft and lever to within an inch of its life... This truck is my daily driver, even though I have a spare I hate having a vehicle just sit there.

 

I rather be safe than sorry, if it was Me I'd install a pyro even a cheapo one but a gauge with #'s nonetheless.

 

When you start taking the throttle levers off the shaft you'll see how the bottom lever is geared to the shaft. Its not that big of a deal to mark it or not. When you put it back together, just turn the shaft until it starts to pull on the internals then put the lever back on, it will be close if it doesn't want to run then index it one more tooth, or if it runs but idles really high then index it the other way.

Also I like to remove the fuel screw completely, makes it easier, just turn it in all the way and count the turns it goes in, then on reassembly turn it all the way in and turn it out that many turns.

Also once you get the top loose, I like to push the throttle shaft out of the top, set the top aside then mess with taking the spring/tophat assembly apart. This way you can see what you're doing with less chance of loosing something. Then reassemble the opposite.

 

What he said.

On the throttle clocking: If the truck does not want to start or idles way too slow, or wants to run away - DO NOT make the classic mistake of messing around with the idle and power screws to try to make it run right. Pull the lever off again and move it a spline until it is right.

If you put the screws back where you found them, the truck should run normally after the 3200 RPM install. If it does not, the throttle lever is clocked wrong.

 

Thank you guys so much for the information!!!! It took me a little while but that thing is awesome!! Everything you guys said about that spring is true. The one two shift at full throttle is impressive!! I didnt get it up on the highway yet but it seems to work great. Oh and *^%*&%*&^&**%%_$_% that blasted low idle set screw... I am planning on making a few new tools to make that easier to get to and Im gonna bend up an allen wrench for that rear top most pump screw as well. When I do my friends itll be a lot easier. I did what you guys said and just marked the throttle pieces real well and got it spot on first try. Primed with the lift pump and she fired right up, was prepared for run away and all that. It idled just a tad fast and I backed the screw down a few turns and its almost where it was. I ran out of daylight to get it perfect. Im guessing Im right below 1000 rpm, but it doesnt hit the tranny to hard going into gear. So ill make up some tools and then fix that this weekend. Again, thanks for all your input and advice... Now its on to making some intake tubes, some exhaust and tranny work, then gauges... then MORE POWER!!!!

 

LOL Watch out. Next thing ya know, you will be pulling the engine out for other mods.........

 

and head studs, and ported head, and o-ringed head and then the oil cooler and then and then and then... believe me, I make fun of you only because I know the truth... it will be happening to me...