Electrical problems need lots of help.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Oh and i forgot to mention before the big "Pop" i got shocked when i was touching the ignition switch...and it hurt.
Most likely the main fusible link.
Most likely the main fusible link.
Yea I'm thinking that pop sound was the main fusible link that popped....all fuses in the cab are good. Right now i'm trying to use the 91.5 Wiring diagram in the sticky to Re-wire the fuel heater , only 4 wires are damaged, There are 2 big weatherpac plugs right there that i unhooked and have the wires easy accessible
I'm talking to Nick about getting him to get rid of all the fusible links and wire in a little fuse box right there.
I'm talking to Nick about getting him to get rid of all the fusible links and wire in a little fuse box right there.
That is going to be your best bet. I am about 1/2 of the way though rewiring mine. The fusible links do pop when they blow they also sometime melt the wires around them. The one that gives power to the ignition switch and FSS (and a few other things) blew on my truck. Get out a test light and test before and after each of them and wire a fuse in there place just to get by until you can rewire everything. Just make sure its rated for what ever your replacing.
This is also a good time to get yourself a FSM. the wiring diagrams come in handy.
You can buy a download of the wiring diagram on line for like 20 bucks
For the time being you can do away with the controller and relay everything. As said, 91.5 was a transition to a newer body computer.
I'm tellin you though, do it right the first time. You might be better looking for a under hood harness. Hard to say what other hidden damage there is
For the time being you can do away with the controller and relay everything. As said, 91.5 was a transition to a newer body computer.
I'm tellin you though, do it right the first time. You might be better looking for a under hood harness. Hard to say what other hidden damage there is
My 91.5 would not start, had onthing at the key. The a/c goes thru the pcm, shorted mine while bypassin the therm., blowed the ORANGE fuse link, "De-nada, zilch, nothin" i paniced, repaired fuse link "ZAP", good to go . Worth a look.
Brandon. Take the time to relax and calm down first before you start Looking on this. Excitement and joy for having your first First Gen will cloud your mind. AND letting the smoke out of the wires doesnt help.
You have the best source of information on the net right here on DTR.
Now all of us here to help you.
You have the best source of information on the net right here on DTR.
Now all of us here to help you.
There is no way anything 12-volt electrical in a diesel vehicle is going to have enough zap to even cause a mild shock, UNLESS something has gone haywire inside the alternator and causing high A-C current to feed through the system.

Of course, the engine would have to be running for this to occur.
I am not a big fan of the Nippon-Denso alternators.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,547
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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Maybe i'm just crazy then Bear but i swear i got shocked 

. I know what it feels like, it like numbed my hand.
And I have every wiring diagram i could need right here for 91.5 specifically straight from the FSM-
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/1991.5-Wiring_Diagrams/


. I know what it feels like, it like numbed my hand.And I have every wiring diagram i could need right here for 91.5 specifically straight from the FSM-
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/1991.5-Wiring_Diagrams/
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,547
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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)


Thanks guys.
1st and last time it will see our garage

My best guess on this, after reading the whole thread... You lost your main ground. If you lose the heavy cable connection on the ground side, the smaller wires start taking the load. Than, when you start unplugging wires that get hot, the remaining wires take even more load. Another indication of ground loss is the shock you got. A 12 volt system is fully capable of creating a strong shock. Any relay will discharge a good zap when powering down if there is no ground path.
My best guess on this, after reading the whole thread... You lost your main ground. If you lose the heavy cable connection on the ground side, the smaller wires start taking the load. Than, when you start unplugging wires that get hot, the remaining wires take even more load. Another indication of ground loss is the shock you got. A 12 volt system is fully capable of creating a strong shock. Any relay will discharge a good zap when powering down if there is no ground path.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,547
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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
OK so i dug into some things. The dark blue wire that goes to the fuel heater had a bare spot in it and the insulation was flattened out like it had been rubbing on something, it was a quite a few inches away from where the little fire happened.
What happened is the blue wire
turns out, the PO must have had the fuel heater off and clocked it in correctly which made the connector for the fuel heater actually TOUCH the throttle bracket assembly, it was jambed back there.
So the blue wire had pulled out of the fuel heater connector the other day when i was ripping things apart making sure everything was extinguished,
today i took that blue wire and lined it back up as if it was in the connector and BAM it was right there, about 1/2 inch out of the connector is where the bear spot landed, so this could be where ti originated, This bear spot is so far and so unassociated with the other damage that was done, I think it was there BEFORE all this happened and it finally ground out on the throttle bracket.
What happened is the blue wire
turns out, the PO must have had the fuel heater off and clocked it in correctly which made the connector for the fuel heater actually TOUCH the throttle bracket assembly, it was jambed back there.
So the blue wire had pulled out of the fuel heater connector the other day when i was ripping things apart making sure everything was extinguished,
today i took that blue wire and lined it back up as if it was in the connector and BAM it was right there, about 1/2 inch out of the connector is where the bear spot landed, so this could be where ti originated, This bear spot is so far and so unassociated with the other damage that was done, I think it was there BEFORE all this happened and it finally ground out on the throttle bracket.






