Downpipe support bracket... anyone have a picture?
#1
Chapter President
Thread Starter
Downpipe support bracket... anyone have a picture?
I am about to install my Diamond Eye exhaust system and was wondering if anyone had a picture of the support bracket that goes from the downpipe to the bellhousing.
My stock exhaust never had one (previous owner must of hacked it off) and i can't think of a easy way connect the downpipe to bellhousing.
Anyone with a 4" downpipe have a picture of this handy? Also does anyone have any pictures of the system installed on a 4x4 truck? Mine is very tight around the cross member and the transfer case. I think it is going to need some modifications with a big hammer to get it to fit without touching anything.
My stock exhaust never had one (previous owner must of hacked it off) and i can't think of a easy way connect the downpipe to bellhousing.
Anyone with a 4" downpipe have a picture of this handy? Also does anyone have any pictures of the system installed on a 4x4 truck? Mine is very tight around the cross member and the transfer case. I think it is going to need some modifications with a big hammer to get it to fit without touching anything.
#4
Registered User
I found a support for mine in a pile of scrap parts.after reading the flange on the downpipe can bust the welds from the support. It is a little triangle piece with a curved lip big enough for an exhaust clamp to hold it against the pipe. Then you just clamp it to the pipe with an exhaust clamp. Sorry I don't have a camera for pics.
#5
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You don't need the bracket. It's arch doesn't match the new DE pipe anyway. You need to buy a universal heavy duty muffler hanger, modify the end so it's bent towards the front of the truck about 1 " from the end of the strap away from the clamp end, drill a hole in your floor board, install a thick piece of metal inside the cab, under the floor mat or rug, and bolt it all together with a guillotine clamp.
IMO, that skimpy little trans bolt is just destined to snap off again..... although I guess you could try a GR 8 bolt.
Anyone with a 4" downpipe have a picture of this handy? Also does anyone have any pictures of the system installed on a 4x4 truck? Mine is very tight around the cross member and the transfer case. I think it is going to need some modifications with a big hammer to get it to fit without touching anything.
Temporarily install the pipe, mark the pipe with a magic marker, and remove the pipe. Get your torch out, heat up the area where you marked in a circular motion, and slowly re shape the pipe with a flattened area in both sections of the pipe you previously marked. Make the pipe move inwards about 1/2 inch, contouring the pipe so it doesn't have any sharp indents. This will take you about 15 or 20 minutes, but at least you won't have to deal with this problem ever again.
The crossmember pipe works fine, although you need to be precise where it gets placed. I suggest that you do not use the guillotine clamps the system came with, but go out and buy some diesel exhaust flat band clamps that encompass the joints. I regret not doing so.
#6
Chapter President
Thread Starter
My downpipe seems fine, I moved my trans line over a little so they don't rub. I think the reason why I am having trouble around the transfer case is because of the thicker bellhousing adapter for my 47rh. I am going to use the pre-formed band clamps so that should lengthen the pipe going around the cross member which should help.
Thanks for the help with the hanger at the bellhousing. That's what I was thinking if doing.
Thanks for the help with the hanger at the bellhousing. That's what I was thinking if doing.
#7
Registered User
I would definitely NOT hook the exhaust to the cab floor. It needs to be secured to the engine/trans. This is done to support the weight/vibration of the exhaust by something besides your manifold/ex. housing/ DP flange. I welded a simple tab to my 4" DP that catches the same bolt the factory mount did. There is no rubber isolation, and it cracks after about a year of bouncing down the road. I would recommend some form of isolation for a permanent fix.
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