Hello my a/c has been doing not so well so I have researched the forums on the symtoms and found the compressor clutch was not cycling. So I tried to change the compressor cycle switch and when I took it off all the R12 sprayed out! I thought it had a schraeder valve so it would not come out but who knows, maybe I took off the wrong part. Anyhow I was wondering if I should go ahead and convert to 134A or just get it refilled with R12? I have heard some say that 134 is not near as good at cooling. Should I convert?

The a/c would blow cold at first but then progessively get a little warmer but not hot. It would not stay comfortable at all in the 100 degree heat in Houston. I tried to get it recharged at a service station and they qouted me about $1000 for new compressor and etc. He told me he thought the compressor was getting weak.

THanks

 

What are we working on ???

In my humble opinion the guy is going to skrew you!

If done correctly a 134 system will blow ICE CUBES out the vents.

I have been doing 134's for years and have never had anyone crying about it NOT
being cold enough.

The new compressor will set you back about $500 give or take.
Before I went ape and dropped the cash for a new compressor I would just recharge
what you have and see what really happens. These compressors will last almost
forever.

 

it is a 93 D250 single cab. Plan to have it converted Thursday. Guess I will see what happens......... Thanks for the input

 

Hum the cycling swith has a shrader valve, unless yours was removed and i see no reason for that, second 134a has jumped in price, its going to be discontinued before long. there is a replacement called freeze 12 which works just fine. i dont have a pic online but perhaps i can describe it. where two lines go into your firewall is a square block , this is an exspansion valve, before it in the suction line"big one" is a tee in line, a switch similar looking to a oil pressure swith screws on it has two wires to it. if its stock the base is plastic, thats a cycling switch, if it has no shrader valve put one in.

 

I think you mean R12 has been discontinued, 134a is the replacement that all new cars come with.

I agree with 59 ford, just charge it with 134a, much much cheaper, and see if it works if not get a new compressor. just checked partsamerica and a reman compressor w/clutch is around $300.

 

This is the same symptom mine has. Cold at first but gets progressively warmer after about 20 minutes.

 

I switched out the cycling switch and had someone evacuate the R12 and recharge with 134. Blows nice and cold now! Only cost $130.

 

$130.00

I gotta relocate to one of them high prices towns.
I would have done it for $65.00 ..... and made a good profit at that.


Have juice, will travel

wire 59

 

That was actually the cost for a new schrader valve, cycle switch, 134, and labor of $65. Autozone gave sold me the wrong switch and the mechanic had to order one. I guess the schrader valve was not there or screwed up because I took off the proper part, but all the freon came out.

I am sure I could have had it done cheaper but I trust only this guy to work on my cars when I can't do it. He is an older fellow and friends with my grandpa. Has worked on my families cars for many years. He is average priced around this area of Houston and I can trust that he will not do anything above what is needed to get it done right. In one of my earlier posts, I mentioned that a mechanic I took it to to recharge with r 12, said my compressor was getting weak and that it would cost $1000 to repair. I didn't listen and looked further into it myself. Thanks to the info on this board, that got knocked down quite a bit!

I have also heard stories on this board and others of mechanics over filling and doing improper repairs and then telling you that you need many things you don't cause they screwed up.

I will pay a little extra for honest and excellent work.

 

there is not a sch valve on that model truck. if you look in the manual it will tell you that. you have to evac the system and then pull it out and then recharge the system. i have the same truck and did it two weeks ago. makes a hell of a diff. and if you didnt want to use 134 you could use freeze 12.

 

YUK, freeze12 uooooooooooooo

I have some industrial R12/R135 replacement that is KILLER!!

You just have to be very careful not to overcharge the system.
I had mine blowing 30* out of the vents. I froze the evaporator
so I drained a bit out till I got a cool 35* on a 90* afternoon.

It's ICE COLD, if I could only get the Bud Lite cans to stay on
the dash.

 

Ok just for your education 134a will soon follow r12 in the way of the dinosaur, the state of ca found out it causes cancer in rats. So the ones considering the change may want to wait a while. There is an option I will post as i cant remember right off hand. But believe it or not one of the best drop ins is simple propane, it was produced for a while but Dupont threw a fit and it was discontinued. The consumer labs in co tested it and found no problems running it, no fire threat.