I've been running b99 in my new truck (1990 w350, 123000mi.) for about 2 weeks now, and I'm getting more smoke than I usually do. I heard biodiesel initially cleans out the fuel system... could a little extra smoke be caused by this?
question part two: I need to replace the rubber parts in the fuel system I learned from this forum that some of my lines are metal, some rubber. What size are the rubbers? I also heard I may need a new lift pump.
Mike

 

do watch that lift pump (and your oil level...) the membrane might break and fill your crankcase with Bio-D (as reported by U-of-Idaho from their gen1 issues)

Do a search on this forum as there was discussion of a Cummins lift pump upgrade, just last week.

The smoke should not be bio-D related, as it usually does some major cleaning on your tank and lines and particulate should get trapped in filter. (keep extra filter on hand, but I would change Before it starves your pump) It is possible there would be some cleaning action in the pump, but a couple tanks ought to freshen you up. (do avoid spilling Bio-d on your paint)

 

I filled my truck with Bio a couple of weeks ago and the truck has been putting out white french fry oil smoke really bad at an idle. Been diluting it and dumped in a couple bottles of treatment. Smoke is finally getting better but this will be the last time I run Bio in the truck! Guess the old gal doesn't care for it much!

I'm not talking a little smoke, it was drifting across the intersection when waiting for the light! Also seems to be a loss of power with it.

 

The biodiesel shouldn't cause power loss... it's btu is pretty much the same as diesel... maybe it was the fuel filter clogging with line buildup. I keep an extra filter with me all the time... but when is a proper time to change it (how long until the bio breaks most of the crud out of the lines)? I am a little worried about the smoke issue, but there seems to be no other engine effect (power and idle are still solid). At some point in the near future, I may convert it to a straght vegetable oil system (free gas), so maybe there are some adjustments I can make to limit the fryer smoke.
mike

 

Biodiesel is thicker than #2 diesel, and it does have a slightly lower BTU value.

Crunchy, when are you getting the smoke? Idle, cruise, full power?

 

Mostly idle, though I get a good puff when I accelerate. I'm not sure of the consistent quality of the biodiesel, I get it from a local co-op.
Mike

 

From what I've read the Bio fuels have a higher Cetane rating than regular #2 (more heat per unit) which = more snort. Jethrro

 

You will loose some power with B100. Even the wife notices the power loss in the TDI.

What color is the smoke. I get less black smoke with B100 in all my vehicles

Dean

 

You need to advance the pump timing more to get the full benefit from B100.

 

I'm getting the white smoke at idle. Also getting less black smoke overall but this white crap has got to go! Called the fuel company today and the fuel is B99.He said no one else has reported problems so I guess it is just my truck.

I also advanced the timing, am around 2.0 now. Can't go much more or the pump will be against the head.

 

Could it be a little water?

 

When you go to replace the hoses, DO NOT use FUEL line... it will crack, rot and leak in a few years. Instead, use automatic transmission hose. I'm not sure if the auto tranny hose will hold up to biodiesel or not though.

 

I get less black smoke too, more of the grey crap. it's possible that there is contamination of some sort. I know the b99 I use comes from waste fryer oil filtered. There's certainly some impurities that make it through. As far as the lines... you should be able to find metal or teflon fuel lines, both of which hold up to bio. Thanks for all of y'alls input.
Mike

 

how do you advance the timing, by the way?
Mike

 

Jethrro,

As a possible clarification - from what I've read, higher cetane means the fuel ignites easier (self-lights more readily under pressure). It is at the opposite end of the spectrum from octane, which reduces the tendency to self-ignite (which diesels need and gas-autos hate).

The continuum is Cetane ---> 0 ----> Octane

The farther left, the easier it goes off by itself, the farther right, the more you need a spark to get the fuel burning!

As it relates to timing, I would think that higher cetane would also mean faster ignition - and so would seem like advancing the timing simply because it would reach peak pressure in the cylinder sooner.

This is, however, DIFFERENT than BTU's released from fuel, as bio-diesel has (weak recollection here) about 2-5% less energy (BTU) per unit of fuel.

(EDIT: Chevron site lists dinoD at 130k BTU/gal, and elsewhere bioD is listed at 117k BTU/gal - FYI)

So, people may see a slight drop in economy if they notice (pay close attention). If you wanted to be picky, I did see one website where they converted to MPD (Miles per dollar) since that metric takes into account both price for a basic unit (gallon) and the energy it provides to move a vehicle a set distance. Nice, really, because it can also be used to compare fuel and answer questions such as "does the ethanol based ARCO fuel, being less expensive, really save me money compared to the more expensive (per gallon) Chevron?". Well, if the ethanol reduces MPG, then perhaps not. It could be that MPD is better with Chevron. Every engine is different, so unless the difference is rather large you'll find people saying "Brand X works much better!" - and people quoting the same for "Y" aren't lying, just relating how things work in difference circumstances.

And, finally, to really complicate things - imagine that your engine had timing set that was less than optimum for a dino-diesel cetane of (say) 40. Then, you put in bio-diesel with a higher cetane (maybe 52?). You might more than make up for the lower energy output simply because the cetane of the fuel more closely matched the operating parameters of your engine and the fuel burned more efficiently.

Nothings ever 'simple', is it?!

FYI - Mark
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