best fuel pin
this is the best info :you say you put the denny T one in and it makes more smoke and pulls the same
Its dyno proven that a cut fuel pin only makes like 5-10hp compared to a stock turned pin. all you do is smoke more and lower MPG economy
.cut it yourself.if at all
use a zippy disk on a die grinder then use a sand disk on a rotolock on the die grinder to clean it up.
or just take it out.

if i were to do it again id cut it so that its stock till around 20 psi boost. right now my truck full fuel around 2psi

smokes way to much and doesnt help fuel economy.
and ive tried numeous set-up with star wheel /smoke srcew etc.
Why not put in a pin that has been dyno proven to make more power than a stock ground pin. Denny T spent his own money to do a dyno back to back with a stock ground pin vs. his stage 2 pin. He also has awesome customer service what more can you ask for? Here is the link to the video and his website that might answer some of your questions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoH_8CpmW5I
http://www.dennytperformance.com/index.htm
I personally run one of his stage 1 pins because it helps cut back the fuel down low and then it comes on strong once you build up some boost. The stage 1 top end fueling is the same as the stage 2, but it doesn’t dump all of the fuel in down low. I also have a valet switch and I don’t use any of the boost fueling from the pin unless I want too. I usually gain over 80+hp when I turn on the valet switch which adds air to the pump.
I guess he is also working on a hybrid pin that molds the two pins into one. He is sending one to me so I can try it out.
Just out of curiosity how many of you have actually tested any of the different pins that are out there? Have you run them back to back or at least on the same dyno without any other changes? I haven’t, but I guess I always could to prove a point and back up one of my sponsors.
I guess this is just my 2cts, but what would I know about any of this silly VE stuff anyways?
Stomp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoH_8CpmW5I
http://www.dennytperformance.com/index.htm
I personally run one of his stage 1 pins because it helps cut back the fuel down low and then it comes on strong once you build up some boost. The stage 1 top end fueling is the same as the stage 2, but it doesn’t dump all of the fuel in down low. I also have a valet switch and I don’t use any of the boost fueling from the pin unless I want too. I usually gain over 80+hp when I turn on the valet switch which adds air to the pump.
I guess he is also working on a hybrid pin that molds the two pins into one. He is sending one to me so I can try it out.
Just out of curiosity how many of you have actually tested any of the different pins that are out there? Have you run them back to back or at least on the same dyno without any other changes? I haven’t, but I guess I always could to prove a point and back up one of my sponsors.
I guess this is just my 2cts, but what would I know about any of this silly VE stuff anyways?
Stomp
Why not put in a pin that has been dyno proven to make more power than a stock ground pin. Denny T spent his own money to do a dyno back to back with a stock ground pin vs. his stage 2 pin. He also has awesome customer service what more can you ask for? Here is the link to the video and his website that might answer some of your questions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoH_8CpmW5I
http://www.dennytperformance.com/index.htm
I personally run one of his stage 1 pins because it helps cut back the fuel down low and then it comes on strong once you build up some boost. The stage 1 top end fueling is the same as the stage 2, but it doesn’t dump all of the fuel in down low. I also have a valet switch and I don’t use any of the boost fueling from the pin unless I want too. I usually gain over 80+hp when I turn on the valet switch which adds air to the pump.
I guess he is also working on a hybrid pin that molds the two pins into one. He is sending one to me so I can try it out.
Just out of curiosity how many of you have actually tested any of the different pins that are out there? Have you run them back to back or at least on the same dyno without any other changes? I haven’t, but I guess I always could to prove a point and back up one of my sponsors.
I guess this is just my 2cts, but what would I know about any of this silly VE stuff anyways?
Stomp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoH_8CpmW5I
http://www.dennytperformance.com/index.htm
I personally run one of his stage 1 pins because it helps cut back the fuel down low and then it comes on strong once you build up some boost. The stage 1 top end fueling is the same as the stage 2, but it doesn’t dump all of the fuel in down low. I also have a valet switch and I don’t use any of the boost fueling from the pin unless I want too. I usually gain over 80+hp when I turn on the valet switch which adds air to the pump.
I guess he is also working on a hybrid pin that molds the two pins into one. He is sending one to me so I can try it out.
Just out of curiosity how many of you have actually tested any of the different pins that are out there? Have you run them back to back or at least on the same dyno without any other changes? I haven’t, but I guess I always could to prove a point and back up one of my sponsors.
I guess this is just my 2cts, but what would I know about any of this silly VE stuff anyways?
Stomp
I did however do a dyno with a stock pin in it's stock position on a stock truck. I then added only the dennyt pin. IIRC the dennyt gave me 26hp and almost 100ft lbs tq. Again, everything else remained completely stock.
I have a spare pump upstairs and I'm going to take my stock ground pin out of my pump and put it in the AFC of my spare pump and I am going to see if I get full afc travel with it or not. If I don't, then the dennyt will add power over a stock ground pin, it's that simple. If I do get full afc travel with the ground pin, then they are the same final fueling and I will continue to run a ground stocker.
If you getting more smoke wouldn’t that mean you are putting out some more fuel? I bet if you added some more air to your mix you would have noticed more of a gain. Do you have enough turbo to support your fueling mods?
I hope that you dont take my question the wrong way.
Stomp
I have run my stock ground pin back to back on the road with my dennyt. I didn't notice any real go-fast difference between the 2. I did notice less smoke and a little faster/smoother spoolup so I decided to run the stock ground pin and finally sold my dennyt for $50. I never did a dyno comparison between the 2. And my afc leaked with the Dennyt. It doesn't with the stock ground one.
I did however do a dyno with a stock pin in it's stock position on a stock truck. I then added only the dennyt pin. IIRC the dennyt gave me 26hp and almost 100ft lbs tq. Again, everything else remained completely stock.
I have a spare pump upstairs and I'm going to take my stock ground pin out of my pump and put it in the AFC of my spare pump and I am going to see if I get full afc travel with it or not. If I don't, then the dennyt will add power over a stock ground pin, it's that simple. If I do get full afc travel with the ground pin, then they are the same final fueling and I will continue to run a ground stocker.
I did however do a dyno with a stock pin in it's stock position on a stock truck. I then added only the dennyt pin. IIRC the dennyt gave me 26hp and almost 100ft lbs tq. Again, everything else remained completely stock.
I have a spare pump upstairs and I'm going to take my stock ground pin out of my pump and put it in the AFC of my spare pump and I am going to see if I get full afc travel with it or not. If I don't, then the dennyt will add power over a stock ground pin, it's that simple. If I do get full afc travel with the ground pin, then they are the same final fueling and I will continue to run a ground stocker.
Stomp
Why not put in a pin that has been dyno proven to make more power than a stock ground pin. Denny T spent his own money to do a dyno back to back with a stock ground pin vs. his stage 2 pin. He also has awesome customer service what more can you ask for? Here is the link to the video and his website that might answer some of your questions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoH_8CpmW5I
http://www.dennytperformance.com/index.htm
I personally run one of his stage 1 pins because it helps cut back the fuel down low and then it comes on strong once you build up some boost. The stage 1 top end fueling is the same as the stage 2, but it doesn’t dump all of the fuel in down low. I also have a valet switch and I don’t use any of the boost fueling from the pin unless I want too. I usually gain over 80+hp when I turn on the valet switch which adds air to the pump.
I guess he is also working on a hybrid pin that molds the two pins into one. He is sending one to me so I can try it out.
Just out of curiosity how many of you have actually tested any of the different pins that are out there? Have you run them back to back or at least on the same dyno without any other changes? I haven’t, but I guess I always could to prove a point and back up one of my sponsors.
I guess this is just my 2cts, but what would I know about any of this silly VE stuff anyways?
Stomp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoH_8CpmW5I
http://www.dennytperformance.com/index.htm
I personally run one of his stage 1 pins because it helps cut back the fuel down low and then it comes on strong once you build up some boost. The stage 1 top end fueling is the same as the stage 2, but it doesn’t dump all of the fuel in down low. I also have a valet switch and I don’t use any of the boost fueling from the pin unless I want too. I usually gain over 80+hp when I turn on the valet switch which adds air to the pump.
I guess he is also working on a hybrid pin that molds the two pins into one. He is sending one to me so I can try it out.
Just out of curiosity how many of you have actually tested any of the different pins that are out there? Have you run them back to back or at least on the same dyno without any other changes? I haven’t, but I guess I always could to prove a point and back up one of my sponsors.
I guess this is just my 2cts, but what would I know about any of this silly VE stuff anyways?
Stomp
thye i could see 80hp/.
ive seen a 10 hp increase to a cut fuel pin compared to a turned stock one.
NOT DENNY T'S though
and my other question is MPG decrease with a aftermarket pin.
and stomp post pics of the hybrid pin when you get it...iam curious ..ill buy one IF it works
something "stepped" so that it lights hard claens up then comes back on hard with like 30psi would be nice.
i cant seam to get that balance

And I'll report back on whether I can get full travel on a stock ground pin along with a picture of said pin and how ground the pin is to get that full travel if indeed I can achieve that full travel
Also, as clarification when I said more smoke (referring to my dennyt pin, in my other post) I was simply referring to preboost smoke. WOT smoke looked as far as I could tell, the same.
the pin ive cut and the PDR pin i have in now allow close to full travel . i would like to try the M2 m&h or cut one with a similar profile
my pre boost smoke is terrible and cleans up once it lights.
with afc tuning i can get it to light fast and clean up fast but every take off the poor guy next to me is not happy..
Stomp tell us about your modified AFC
dont worry iam a long way away from chasing your dyno record and iam sure you will have somthing else up your sleeve by the time i pass 400hp.
................so spill the beans
.is it denny t's afc delete?
my pre boost smoke is terrible and cleans up once it lights.
with afc tuning i can get it to light fast and clean up fast but every take off the poor guy next to me is not happy..
Stomp tell us about your modified AFC
dont worry iam a long way away from chasing your dyno record and iam sure you will have somthing else up your sleeve by the time i pass 400hp.

................so spill the beans

.is it denny t's afc delete?
Well I've been tinkering with my AFC all day. I'm going to do a little writeup but as a preface, in my study of the AFC housing and AFC pin travel, I have gotten full AFC pin travel with a ground stock fuel cone on the shallow side of the cone.
Disclaimer: I in no way mean to take away from the efforts of those who make aftermarket fuel cones (DennyT and M&H). I bought a DennyT cone and it was good for what I used it for and he is an AMAZING businessman in that he is someone of integrity. I wish more people ran their business like he does. It's admirable.
That and I don't regret buying a cone from him, when I bought my cone I didn't have the understanding that I do now about the AFC as a whole. If what is said in this post goes in one ear and out the other, maybe you should fork the $105 for an aftermarket cone. It beats messing something up. I'm not trying to discourage people from paying for an aftermarket cone, I just want to share my findings with the masses. That and I do believe in supporting those who go through the trouble of making aftermarket stuff for our old heaps. I bought a DennyT fuel cone and used it for a long time, and I have an M&H timing spacer on order so please don't roast me for my findings! I'm supporting these guys with my hard earned money!
Ok here it is! I ground my stock fuel cone on the shallow side like so:

You know that little lip at the bottom of the cone? well I ground the lip at the bottom of the cone just enough that it was smoothe for the pin in the AFC to ride on. Ground it like so (excuse the crappy pic...)

All that allowed me to get full AFC travel from the fuel pin in the AFC believe it or not. Which means those aftermarket cones won't fuel any better than a properly ground stock pin, and a stock pin allows you to get the ramp YOU want. Screw it up and you'll be buying a new pin from M&H or DennyT. Also, if you don't like it you can turn it the other way and run the stock deep side of the cone. I also checked to see how much AFC travel one got from the deep side of a stock cone. It's maybe 1mm, 2mm TOPS from full travel. It might look like there isn't much meat there on my ground cone but there's probably 2mm thickness of material still left. Also, the cone only travels pretty much just to the bottom of the ramp where it levels off before it bottoms in the bore like so. (the cone sticks up roughly 2.5mm past the top of the bore)

If you're wondering why the ramp drops off primarily at the end of it's travel, it is to cut down on low boost smoke. something the VE is notorious for. I also fully compressed my AFC spring all the way. It's about 8mm thick fully compressed. That's good info because I tightened my AFC starwheel so that the spring fully compressed is just shy of the point where the pin bottoms in it's bore. That way, you can get as much tension on that spring as possible, which will also cut down on the notorious smoke. Now if the truck doesn't spool as you feel it should you can turn the star wheel down loosening tension on the spring, but this is a good reference point to start from.
You know the AFC foot right? how one end rides on the thingy in the body of the pump and the other end pushes the fuel pin in against the fuel cone. Well I did some tweaking there. The results are surprising but back to my main point. There is I'd guess maybe 2mm "play" as it were, between the fuel pin and the plug on the front of the AFC housing. I see it advantagious to actually make a longer fuel pin and put it in there taking up the slack. It would definitely change the dynamic of the whole AFC but it would give you more control over no fuel all the way through to WOT, full boost conditions.
I remember reading a thread on here or on CF (I can't remember which) about making a new longer fuel pin to replace the factory bosch one for those who grinded their AFC foot to allow them to get use of their AFC again. Well that principle can be applied even to a pump that hasn't had the AFC foot ground down.
I've been looking for this thread for a bit now but I can't seem to find it, if anyone finds it please let me know. It gives detailed instructions and dimensions of the little fuel pin. I may try to make a new pin and put it in one of my AFC housings for a retrofit testing on my truck once it's up and running. I think it may be worth a shot. It would give me more preboost tuning ability I think.
Thoughts?
That and I don't regret buying a cone from him, when I bought my cone I didn't have the understanding that I do now about the AFC as a whole. If what is said in this post goes in one ear and out the other, maybe you should fork the $105 for an aftermarket cone. It beats messing something up. I'm not trying to discourage people from paying for an aftermarket cone, I just want to share my findings with the masses. That and I do believe in supporting those who go through the trouble of making aftermarket stuff for our old heaps. I bought a DennyT fuel cone and used it for a long time, and I have an M&H timing spacer on order so please don't roast me for my findings! I'm supporting these guys with my hard earned money!

Ok here it is! I ground my stock fuel cone on the shallow side like so:

You know that little lip at the bottom of the cone? well I ground the lip at the bottom of the cone just enough that it was smoothe for the pin in the AFC to ride on. Ground it like so (excuse the crappy pic...)

All that allowed me to get full AFC travel from the fuel pin in the AFC believe it or not. Which means those aftermarket cones won't fuel any better than a properly ground stock pin, and a stock pin allows you to get the ramp YOU want. Screw it up and you'll be buying a new pin from M&H or DennyT. Also, if you don't like it you can turn it the other way and run the stock deep side of the cone. I also checked to see how much AFC travel one got from the deep side of a stock cone. It's maybe 1mm, 2mm TOPS from full travel. It might look like there isn't much meat there on my ground cone but there's probably 2mm thickness of material still left. Also, the cone only travels pretty much just to the bottom of the ramp where it levels off before it bottoms in the bore like so. (the cone sticks up roughly 2.5mm past the top of the bore)

If you're wondering why the ramp drops off primarily at the end of it's travel, it is to cut down on low boost smoke. something the VE is notorious for. I also fully compressed my AFC spring all the way. It's about 8mm thick fully compressed. That's good info because I tightened my AFC starwheel so that the spring fully compressed is just shy of the point where the pin bottoms in it's bore. That way, you can get as much tension on that spring as possible, which will also cut down on the notorious smoke. Now if the truck doesn't spool as you feel it should you can turn the star wheel down loosening tension on the spring, but this is a good reference point to start from.
You know the AFC foot right? how one end rides on the thingy in the body of the pump and the other end pushes the fuel pin in against the fuel cone. Well I did some tweaking there. The results are surprising but back to my main point. There is I'd guess maybe 2mm "play" as it were, between the fuel pin and the plug on the front of the AFC housing. I see it advantagious to actually make a longer fuel pin and put it in there taking up the slack. It would definitely change the dynamic of the whole AFC but it would give you more control over no fuel all the way through to WOT, full boost conditions.
I remember reading a thread on here or on CF (I can't remember which) about making a new longer fuel pin to replace the factory bosch one for those who grinded their AFC foot to allow them to get use of their AFC again. Well that principle can be applied even to a pump that hasn't had the AFC foot ground down.
I've been looking for this thread for a bit now but I can't seem to find it, if anyone finds it please let me know. It gives detailed instructions and dimensions of the little fuel pin. I may try to make a new pin and put it in one of my AFC housings for a retrofit testing on my truck once it's up and running. I think it may be worth a shot. It would give me more preboost tuning ability I think.
Thoughts?
Disclaimer: I in no way mean to take away from the efforts of those who make aftermarket fuel cones (DennyT and M&H). I bought a DennyT cone and it was good for what I used it for and he is an AMAZING businessman in that he is someone of integrity. I wish more people ran their business like he does. It's admirable.
That and I don't regret buying a cone from him, when I bought my cone I didn't have the understanding that I do now about the AFC as a whole. If what is said in this post goes in one ear and out the other, maybe you should fork the $105 for an aftermarket cone. It beats messing something up. I'm not trying to discourage people from paying for an aftermarket cone, I just want to share my findings with the masses. That and I do believe in supporting those who go through the trouble of making aftermarket stuff for our old heaps. I bought a DennyT fuel cone and used it for a long time, and I have an M&H timing spacer on order so please don't roast me for my findings! I'm supporting these guys with my hard earned money!
Ok here it is! I ground my stock fuel cone on the shallow side like so:

You know that little lip at the bottom of the cone? well I ground the lip at the bottom of the cone just enough that it was smoothe for the pin in the AFC to ride on. Ground it like so (excuse the crappy pic...)

All that allowed me to get full AFC travel from the fuel pin in the AFC believe it or not. Which means those aftermarket cones won't fuel any better than a properly ground stock pin, and a stock pin allows you to get the ramp YOU want. Screw it up and you'll be buying a new pin from M&H or DennyT. Also, if you don't like it you can turn it the other way and run the stock deep side of the cone. I also checked to see how much AFC travel one got from the deep side of a stock cone. It's maybe 1mm, 2mm TOPS from full travel. It might look like there isn't much meat there on my ground cone but there's probably 2mm thickness of material still left. Also, the cone only travels pretty much just to the bottom of the ramp where it levels off before it bottoms in the bore like so. (the cone sticks up roughly 2.5mm past the top of the bore)

If you're wondering why the ramp drops off primarily at the end of it's travel, it is to cut down on low boost smoke. something the VE is notorious for. I also fully compressed my AFC spring all the way. It's about 8mm thick fully compressed. That's good info because I tightened my AFC starwheel so that the spring fully compressed is just shy of the point where the pin bottoms in it's bore. That way, you can get as much tension on that spring as possible, which will also cut down on the notorious smoke. Now if the truck doesn't spool as you feel it should you can turn the star wheel down loosening tension on the spring, but this is a good reference point to start from.
You know the AFC foot right? how one end rides on the thingy in the body of the pump and the other end pushes the fuel pin in against the fuel cone. Well I did some tweaking there. The results are surprising but back to my main point. There is I'd guess maybe 2mm "play" as it were, between the fuel pin and the plug on the front of the AFC housing. I see it advantagious to actually make a longer fuel pin and put it in there taking up the slack. It would definitely change the dynamic of the whole AFC but it would give you more control over no fuel all the way through to WOT, full boost conditions.
I remember reading a thread on here or on CF (I can't remember which) about making a new longer fuel pin to replace the factory bosch one for those who grinded their AFC foot to allow them to get use of their AFC again. Well that principle can be applied even to a pump that hasn't had the AFC foot ground down.
I've been looking for this thread for a bit now but I can't seem to find it, if anyone finds it please let me know. It gives detailed instructions and dimensions of the little fuel pin. I may try to make a new pin and put it in one of my AFC housings for a retrofit testing on my truck once it's up and running. I think it may be worth a shot. It would give me more preboost tuning ability I think.
Thoughts?
That and I don't regret buying a cone from him, when I bought my cone I didn't have the understanding that I do now about the AFC as a whole. If what is said in this post goes in one ear and out the other, maybe you should fork the $105 for an aftermarket cone. It beats messing something up. I'm not trying to discourage people from paying for an aftermarket cone, I just want to share my findings with the masses. That and I do believe in supporting those who go through the trouble of making aftermarket stuff for our old heaps. I bought a DennyT fuel cone and used it for a long time, and I have an M&H timing spacer on order so please don't roast me for my findings! I'm supporting these guys with my hard earned money!

Ok here it is! I ground my stock fuel cone on the shallow side like so:

You know that little lip at the bottom of the cone? well I ground the lip at the bottom of the cone just enough that it was smoothe for the pin in the AFC to ride on. Ground it like so (excuse the crappy pic...)

All that allowed me to get full AFC travel from the fuel pin in the AFC believe it or not. Which means those aftermarket cones won't fuel any better than a properly ground stock pin, and a stock pin allows you to get the ramp YOU want. Screw it up and you'll be buying a new pin from M&H or DennyT. Also, if you don't like it you can turn it the other way and run the stock deep side of the cone. I also checked to see how much AFC travel one got from the deep side of a stock cone. It's maybe 1mm, 2mm TOPS from full travel. It might look like there isn't much meat there on my ground cone but there's probably 2mm thickness of material still left. Also, the cone only travels pretty much just to the bottom of the ramp where it levels off before it bottoms in the bore like so. (the cone sticks up roughly 2.5mm past the top of the bore)

If you're wondering why the ramp drops off primarily at the end of it's travel, it is to cut down on low boost smoke. something the VE is notorious for. I also fully compressed my AFC spring all the way. It's about 8mm thick fully compressed. That's good info because I tightened my AFC starwheel so that the spring fully compressed is just shy of the point where the pin bottoms in it's bore. That way, you can get as much tension on that spring as possible, which will also cut down on the notorious smoke. Now if the truck doesn't spool as you feel it should you can turn the star wheel down loosening tension on the spring, but this is a good reference point to start from.
You know the AFC foot right? how one end rides on the thingy in the body of the pump and the other end pushes the fuel pin in against the fuel cone. Well I did some tweaking there. The results are surprising but back to my main point. There is I'd guess maybe 2mm "play" as it were, between the fuel pin and the plug on the front of the AFC housing. I see it advantagious to actually make a longer fuel pin and put it in there taking up the slack. It would definitely change the dynamic of the whole AFC but it would give you more control over no fuel all the way through to WOT, full boost conditions.
I remember reading a thread on here or on CF (I can't remember which) about making a new longer fuel pin to replace the factory bosch one for those who grinded their AFC foot to allow them to get use of their AFC again. Well that principle can be applied even to a pump that hasn't had the AFC foot ground down.
I've been looking for this thread for a bit now but I can't seem to find it, if anyone finds it please let me know. It gives detailed instructions and dimensions of the little fuel pin. I may try to make a new pin and put it in one of my AFC housings for a retrofit testing on my truck once it's up and running. I think it may be worth a shot. It would give me more preboost tuning ability I think.
Thoughts?
Nice write up I have to give you props. I would love to let you all know what I found back in 2005, but being so close to the faceoff between Jason and me, it would be against my better judgment to give away some of my secrets.
Ok a little hint we took the AFC out of my pump and put it on the test stand. It flowed x amount. Then we put it back in along with a stock ground pin and we were down about xx amount of fuel. We then modified the AFC to allow for some control over boost fueling, which also allowed us to get back to x amount which = max fuel.
Stomp
Yeah PM me your nummber we need to talk
Nice write up I have to give you props. I would love to let you all know what I found back in 2005, but being so close to the faceoff between Jason and me, it would be against my better judgment to give away some of my secrets.
Ok a little hint we took the AFC out of my pump and put it on the test stand. It flowed x amount. Then we put it back in along with a stock ground pin and we were down about xx amount of fuel. We then modified the AFC to allow for some control over boost fueling, which also allowed us to get back to x amount which = max fuel.
Stomp
Nice write up I have to give you props. I would love to let you all know what I found back in 2005, but being so close to the faceoff between Jason and me, it would be against my better judgment to give away some of my secrets.
Ok a little hint we took the AFC out of my pump and put it on the test stand. It flowed x amount. Then we put it back in along with a stock ground pin and we were down about xx amount of fuel. We then modified the AFC to allow for some control over boost fueling, which also allowed us to get back to x amount which = max fuel.
Stomp
The plan is to put this rebuilt VE with modified AFC on my motor and throw the motor in the ford with the mods in this thread: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t295142.html
Then tune the fuel screw until it stops laying down more power or runaway occurs. Whichever comes first. Then I'll tinker with the timing while on the dyno, and see what the final verdict is.
I'm on a tight budget and timeline because the VW passats 1.8t just crapped out and we're on a rental car until the trucks up and running. I don't want to be paying for a rental forever lol


