Adjust your bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)
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Joined: Sep 2009
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I just serviced my 92 3500 CTD with a 518 tranny.
Started by using a cordless drill to drain the pan...then brazed on a 1/4" pipe coupling and plugged it with a 1/4" pipe plug.
Next I adjusted the bands using a new torque wrench...the road test revealed that on the 1-2 shift, the truck began to slow down, as if the 1st gear was not releasing. I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!
Nivlek
Started by using a cordless drill to drain the pan...then brazed on a 1/4" pipe coupling and plugged it with a 1/4" pipe plug.
Next I adjusted the bands using a new torque wrench...the road test revealed that on the 1-2 shift, the truck began to slow down, as if the 1st gear was not releasing. I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!
Nivlek
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 908
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From: tennessee
I just serviced my 92 3500 CTD with a 518 tranny.
Started by using a cordless drill to drain the pan...then brazed on a 1/4" pipe coupling and plugged it with a 1/4" pipe plug.
Next I adjusted the bands using a new torque wrench...the road test revealed that on the 1-2 shift, the truck began to slow down, as if the 1st gear was not releasing. I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!
Nivlek
Started by using a cordless drill to drain the pan...then brazed on a 1/4" pipe coupling and plugged it with a 1/4" pipe plug.
Next I adjusted the bands using a new torque wrench...the road test revealed that on the 1-2 shift, the truck began to slow down, as if the 1st gear was not releasing. I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!
Nivlek
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 561
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From: Oak Hills (Cajon Pass Summit), Ca
I just serviced my 92 3500 CTD with a 518 tranny.
. . . I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!
Nivlek
. . . I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!
Nivlek
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Maine
Other transmissions, I have not looked at and can not comment, sorry.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: alaska
What is the possibility of drilling and taping a small hole in the side of the case for a ball end allen to access the line pressure adjustment?
Sure save a lot of time and trouble.
I got my transmission rebuilt, but I don't think the guy actually checked and adjusted the line pressure. It doesn't seem to be much better than it was.
Sure save a lot of time and trouble.
I got my transmission rebuilt, but I don't think the guy actually checked and adjusted the line pressure. It doesn't seem to be much better than it was.
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
I would like to say thank you to dzl_damon for this excellent writeup. I just purchase a 91.5 and the transmission was slipping badly so i decided to try this, well my transmission does not slip anymore. The only thing I did different is 2.5 turn to the pressure side and i did not touch the TV screw, I just adjusted the bands and the TV cable to spec. You just saved me a re-built for later. thanks again.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Oak Hills (Cajon Pass Summit), Ca
1 full turn is only 3psi. For a bone stock tranny, you don't want to go over about 70psi for base pressure(make sure your kick down cable isn't too aggressive, as this will show a higher pressure at idle), without updating the inner seal on the forward drum(3rd gear apply).
Your base pressure is most likely around 50-52psi, so 3 turns isn't going to kill your tranny, if you're at the stock base pressure.
On aftermarket VB's for some fun and towing, I set the base pressure to 80-85psi. All out race, 95+ for base. For the blue loctite screw, don't go below .800.
Your base pressure is most likely around 50-52psi, so 3 turns isn't going to kill your tranny, if you're at the stock base pressure.
On aftermarket VB's for some fun and towing, I set the base pressure to 80-85psi. All out race, 95+ for base. For the blue loctite screw, don't go below .800.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 908
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From: tennessee
line pressure
been working on these things for 40 years have yet to blow any seals in the 3rd gear clutch drum. have actually blown the snap ring out and took the snap ring groove with it and the seal was still usable. i just dont understand