Last time i flushed my coolant and changed it i used Fleet Charge. Is this coolant ok to use with the 2nd Gen trucks. I've got an 02'. Do you guys recommend using other coolant that is supposed to be better?

 

Fleet charge is good anti-freeze. It is the same as conventional anit-freeze, except for a pre-charge with DCA. More expensive or extended life is not necessary as long as you stay on a regular maintenance program.

 

Agreed fleet charge is fine and even high mileage coolsnts should be flushed periodically so there is really limited benifit from them. As Feuling said- it has the additive which you don't need but won't hurt.

relating to gozapper's comment about his 97: it is not cavitation- it's corrosion. Cavitation can only form in certain spots because the conditions to create it only occur in certain spots- these engines do not generate those conditions anywhere in the cooling system. You got sold an additive to prevent a problem that does not occur in your engine which means either the dealership wanted to satisfy your feelings for needing a remedy, or didn't accurately address your issues. Corrosion can occur in any engine and especially in iron blocks with aluminum components in the cooling system. They sell sacrificial anodes to put in the radiator to help it but they only work with metal tanks radiators, which our trucks do not have.

To prevent corrosion you need to change the coolant and flush the system regularly and ensure you are using destilled water, ideally PH neutral.

 

I don't want to get on a "I'm not payin' for water" thing, but the distelled water thing is why I use 50/50 premix coolant, just as easy to buy that, than buying distilled water and mixing.....my 2 cents.....

 

Thanks!!! I had one other question.

I live down south in Alabama. We don't really have problems with heavy minerals in the water down here. Last time I flushed mine out & put new anti-freeze in I just diluted & filled with tap water from the hose & not deionized water.

Can this hurt much if I run it with just tap water.

Next time I'm going to use the deionized or get the 50/50.

Thanks,

 

Many of the coolant brands call for simple tap water unless you have a significant iron or calcium content. I have both so the tap water is out because softened water is really bad, too. I use to live in Seattle area and that was good water out of the tap.
You'll read threads that warn your grocery store bottle of distilled water is worse than using tap water due to a high ion content. I don't know about the bottled water, but do not use condensate from your dehumidifier or A/C. They are dirty sources meaning dirt, mold, & leached metals.

I believe Mack started the ELC (OAT) crusade with Cat a close second. Navstar uses ELC in all there current engines, too. After the 07 emissions Cummins recommends a HOAT minimum.

The only downside to propylene-glycol (PG) versus ethylene-glycol (EG) is heat transfer. EG is better for heat transfer than PG. Even EG is not that hot (pun intended) for heat transfer compared to water. In some applications, a diesel has straight water with DCA or SCA additives to prevent corrosion & cavitation damage.

 

I've used proplylene glycol antifreeze for about 8 years now. Never had a single problem. I haul heavy a lot and also tow a horse trailer with no overheating problems. I would hate to poison one of my kitties or a pup--they DO find regular antifreeze tasty, which is bad, because it's very poisonous.

 

If its green its good to go! Mopar is green

 

Sorry. I was writing generically about EG versus PG. With a Dodge application, the radiator is oversized to handle any coolant usage.
I was speaking from transit bus applications where the cooling system is pushed hard. The new emissions compliant diesel engines need a very stout cooling system.
On the humanitarian side, I convinced my former OEM employer to implement Bitrex in all EG coolant. Bitrex is nasty and takes out the tasty

 

Thanks F.A., I didn't intend to sound like I was condemning your post, I mostly wanted to get my experience out there so more guys might give prop. glycol a try.

 

Prop glycol is a poor antifreeze in not only heat transfer but other areas- google (or search here, possibly earlier in this thread or another on antifreeze) I posted an industry comparison link between poly and prop.

It's not just calcium and heavy minerals, you want to make sure PH is neutral (I have hi ferric oxide (iron) and acidic water in my well. Corrodes the pipes, so we have a filter and softener to exchange and neutralize. Neither option out of my well is suitable for mixing with coolant.)
I agree, the pre mix is much easier to deal with, especially when you want to keep extra to top off. Besides, 90% of the liquids we buy daily are water... soda, coffee, tea, milk, windshield washer fluid...

While I have used decent tap water in the past, if you want the cooling system to last as long as possible you have to use the best coolant and water you can.