halfpint23

I am not seeing any sort of wiring going to any trans oil lines on the 96 Dodge. On the 97, I had to replace one line when the rubber portion up next to block on passenger side blew out - and NEW line has a Y in it on drivers side, with a plug for future use.....

96 FSM (thank you Lary!!) diagram and text indicates the thermistor (new word for me) is stuck into the governor body - it's showing two wires on connector, which is a 90 degree plug. Everything else I saw under the truck (laying on frozen ground with flashlight) has more wires than that, so I am having to think the two-wire harness is the one I am about to whack into and solder in a resistor?
I just hate to go whacking stuff up unless I have a little more warm and fuzzy that it's the right thing to whack!

Robert Rausch

Since you say you are electrically-challenged maybe you should let the trans shop put the resistor in. The last thing you want is to cut the wrong wires.

halfpint23

More like FSM challenged, actually! Trying to find the right info in the Dodge FSM is a trial of errors.
Temp sensor is NOT diagrammed or even described in the transmission section.
Going to general alphabetical index, I found both diagram AND small info on the trans temp sensor - filed under the Fuel System pages. Go figure. Page 14-118, for those who wish to look at it.
The diagram, figure 9, shows EXACTLY what Robert RAusch has described - a tap at a Y in the trans cooler oil line, with harness attaching there. That's all just fine and dandy BUT!

My 1996 3500 CTD C&C does NOT have that cooler line. It's a plain, unsullied smooth metal line, NO Y, NO sensor port, NO connection for harness. Of interests (perhaps) is the simple fact that our 1997 Dodge 3500 extra cab dually pickup did have the same non-Y line, until I had to replace it due to a blown out rubber hose section up underneath on passengers side. The replacement line does indeed have the Y and a plugged port.

My question remains - WHICH WIRES??? does the resistor bridge? what colors?

I have a two-wire connector that terminates in a plug at about the right spot to accommodate the Y business if it was there. It is extended by a pigtail (same wire colors, 18ga lt gr/blk strip and 18ga dk blu/blk strip) down to a port in the side of the trans housing. terminal end of that pigtail has a part number 85572 on it's orange end.
I'm working on getting a pic of that area to upload, so far no joy on pics. trying again! Maybe it will workthis round.

halfpint23

So, basically - this is only two-wire anything I am finding on Trans on drivers side. If THIS is where the resistor needs to go, easy to take off pigtail section and work in a normal sitting up position fo solder and wrap etc, then plug it back in.
If the wires to be bridges are in the 7-wire bundle, I still need to know WHICH ones, by color or terminal position in that plug.

halfpint23

Well, that didn't upload.

halfpint23

Image of diagram in FSM for the thermistor that is integral with governor. Looks like two pins out, and connector looks about right?

I have about a ton of horse manure to move and a lot of other things need doing, but also kind of need to get this truck out of the shed so other things can go into the shed.... wire colors are escaping me at the moment.

FSM is not being forthcoming with the info I need no matter how hard I choke the silly thing!

Robert Rausch

Mine is a 47RH and not a 47RE. I would be very cautious until someone with more knowledge about the 47RE posts.

patdaly

Hon, when they went to the RE in 96, the thermistor was moved into the trans and now the signal comes out on the 8 pin solenoid connector, see picture below, will be on pin 8, violet wire.

You can either cut and solder the resistor in down there, or up at the PCM, location C2, pin B1, that might be easier to work with and get a waterproof connection, just cut it back far enough you can work with it should you ever need to remove it.

Pictures:





Hope that helps!

halfpint23

Thanks again Robert Rausch and Pat Daly.

After finally succumbing to exhaustion and taking an hour's nap I went back out and slithered under the truck. Phone in hand and lights to peer at stuff, I called the man who re-built the transmission (which was bought from/installed by DTT) and had a nice chat about this whole deal.
Rick of Snohomish Transmission (Dodge CTD owner and driver) told me pretty much the same thing that Pat Daly just posted, sans diagrams but with added color and history. He allowed as how he had not used this particular fix, but no reason it should not work. Governor unit and solenoids are all brand new, but there may be noise/interference/variable current in the old harness that are contributing factors.

Since I can only grope the 8-pin connector and its harness from below (4x4 truck, stuff in the way) He also suggested going in from top side, at PCM. This is my plan for tomorrow.
Tonight is going to be spent scouring through the FSM file (pdf download from Lary, another thank you) and boning up for the test.

halfpint23

Well, back to the drawing board.
Following the schematic given, which is the same identical diagram as given in my version of FSM, I nipped the wire for trans temp (18ga violet wire, T54) and sensor ground wire (18ga black K4) and put resistor in between them (on the PCM side), wrapped off cut ends on the harness side and put it back together.
Truck started fine - except that preheater seemed to stay on a LOOOONG time, (I just went ahead and cranked her up, ambient air temperature about 48 degrees). "Wait to Start" light stayed on after start - then started BLINKING. Uh-oh moment.

I backed the truck out of the shed and parked it out of the way until I can trouble shoot the latest question. Sure as heck am not taking it on a test drive if the pre-heater grid is staying ON.

SO, question for those smart folks on here who understand this business more than I do - was I supposed to wire that pesky resistor IN LINE in the violet wire? and not touch the sensor ground? That would be my gut start-over point if I had nobody to ask for better advice.

Storm is coming in and I have to get a building mucked out in prep for a container of product coming in next week, so won't be fussing much on problematic Dodges. Right now this 96 is for sale at a VERY reasonable price, given the over $20k in work we have into it!

patdaly

INLINE on the violet wire!!!!!!!!!!!!

You nipped the ground for several things, fix it, put the resistor inline ( sorry I wasn't clearer on that ) and you should be just fine.

Don't sell her when you have her this close.....

halfpint23

Whew... thanks again! When this latest blast of soaking wind-driven rain goes by I'll pull it apart and correct the wires. I pigtailed that resistor so there's plenty to work with, not whacked off short at the connector like the DTT chap did it. STILL fuming over the mess those guys made...... very expensive learning curve.

Boy I sure hope this works. When she was running, she pulls like a freight train, drives out nice too, with the whole front end being new!

dodgebre3500

halfpint23 did you get it fixed, my son is having same problem on his 96 auto 4x4,installed temp senor with resistor and no change new TPS no change,shifts fine just wont go into overdrive, got to get it working

halfpint23

Sorry to say it's still parked in the dadburn RAIN... had a dump truck and two loaders to work on, plus now a new piece in tractor steering to put in - and the weather just is not giving me a break. I am praying hard that when I do get that wiring done over - with resistor IN LINE in the violet wire between ECM box and the temp sensor - that good stuff happens...

I will report back here either way!

halfpint23

Finally got a bit of time where it wasn't pouring rain down my backside, and re-did the resistor - INLINE in violet wire, reconnected the sensor ground, nice and tidy and weatherproof. Buttoned her back up and lit the Cummins.
Had the OD switch light come on upon start, but it went off when I pushed the button. No other untoward warning lights, so we went out on a test drive. Three miles to get to a road I can kick it up to a road speed that will ask for OD, and as soon as I passed that speed the OD OFF light came back on AND (drum roll please) the trans temp light in dash came on too.

Drove for 15 minutes, good operating temps, no off "hot oil' smells etc..... Never could get it to address the overdrive gear.

Came home, got under, trans is NOT hot - barely warm, in fact. I am calling this an AHA! moment.
Called Rick at Snohomish Transmission. He also said AHA! and told me to bring her in and he would put the scope on it and test for failed sensor(s).

So, not fixed, but hopefully going there soon. Hope somebody else is having better luck. 96 is still for sale at this point.