I am very new to Dodge ... but from what I understand there was a problem with some tranys that when you first started up the trucks there was a couple second delay in the fluid delivery .
Some kind-a suck back was happening and the fluid was draining back to the converter.
I'm not installing a check valve .

Greg

 

greguw,

As long as the inside diameter of the 3/8" hydralic is close to the inside of the gold uh I mean steel lines you should be good.

I had also stumbled across some controversy that dodge/cummins had designed these lines in steel and with plenty of "run" length to help cool the ATF.

 

Hi Guys

I had time to pull the truck in my shop tonight ... I pulled all the lines off the truck ... The steel feed line that gose from the front of the trans and gose to the cooler has a stainless check ball valve ...it's a 1/4 hole where the ball flows through then the line turns into rubber then gose to the funky fitting into 3/8 npt ...
My rubber line was on it's last few mile's ...it had the soft feel and the rubber was starting come apart ...
I stated on this thread I was not going to install a check valve ... I was wrong ... I am I ordered one just in the nice of time from McMaster carr ... they had a stainless 3/8 male? female ... Since I am doing my lines in rubber I will thread that valve right into the tank ... the valve I got was rated for 350 degree's .
I have chose to go with the larger hose ... I ordered the 1/2 hose and ends ... I tracked down some hose made by parker ... its rated for 2000 psi and a temp rating of 275 degree's ...if I ever hit that temp I'm in trouble ...
The nice thing is that it is a reusable fitting system ...So I can custom fit the leights and every fit connection is a hydualic swivel ... nice easy connections .
The only thing I am still working on is the NPSM fittings ... I ones but the NPT seems to do a better job ...I have to hit a hydraulic place tomarrow .
Later

Greg

 

Hi Guys
Further inspection of my fittings ... my front port where it feeds the steel line that gose to the exchanger ...that fitting is a brass 1/4 npt not nspm ...some one may have changed mine out and retaped it ...my trany is not the original .
I will agree with Timmy about the rear return line with the funky fitting that is a 1/4 npsm .
I am going to take that steel funky fitting and gut it and I am going to tig a NPT female fitting right to it that save some time trying to track down a fitting ...plus I'm not a bad welder ...LOL

Later
Greg

 

Skip the check ball, without it will only cause you a minute max refilling the TC and lines after the truck has been parked.

 

I did away with the check valve and saw impronements in trans temps. Just let truck idle in -N- for a 15 seconds or so to be sure the converter is full. The check valve acts as a orifice and creats heat , that seams to be a major problem with these things. They changed all of my lines to screw-in connections when the installed the Sun Coast set-up. I am sure that the guys at Enterprise Engine.com can tell you what fittings you need for new lines

 

Hi Guys
I just finshed up for the night working on the lines ... I was forced to not use the check valve ... the line on the feed side of heat exchanger put my hose against the block ... so I removed it and the hose was fine .
I used high pressure swivels at all the connections ... made the job very clean and easy .
I still have to run a few hose's ... I am going to try a spin on trans filter ... For me if I mounted it before the cooler would work out much better for me .
Dose anyone think it would be a problem before I run it throught the cooler or should I filter after .
Thanks
Greg

 

I don't think it will matter where the external filter is located but feel you should keep the stock pan filter and service it on schedule.
That is if you were considering eliminating it.

 

I would like to run the amsoil ful syn ... I am leaving the stock pick up filter in place ....a new one that is , but with extended life of the amsoil fluid I would like to be able to change the filter and not have to worry about refilling the pan to change the filter ...I can just unscrew the little filter and top off the trany .
I re-routed the hose configuration and now I can put the screw on filter on the return line ...I'm just about done ... I will have to post some pic's .

Greg

 

Hi Guys
I just finshed up my line and drove my truck home from the shop ... I put dextron /mercon in the trans for a week or so untill I am confedent that all is good with my new lines ...it should be ...every thing looks awsome ...
My system was a little over kill , I had posted my line are rated for 2000 , I was mis spoken .... when I was looking at the hydraulic line there must have been a grease smuge over the # 1 ... the lines are rated for 12000 psi ...LOL
They are very flexable ... not like a hard hydraulic ... but you have to use a carbide cut off wheel to cut the hose ...
I bought a reusable fitting ends .... they screw together ...it's avery nice system , I was able to make the hose's to the leight that I need .
The filter also worked out very well .
I will put in the amsoil and change out the pan filter next week .
Later
Greg

 

Greguw,
What did you do where the lines connect to the trans cooler up by the radiator. Mine are attatched with hose clamps to the cooler, seems like hydraulic hose would be to stiff for hose clamps.

 

Has anyone done away with the pan filter and just went with a external spin on filter? I am taking out the exchanger and putting in another cooler, so some line mods are coming soon.

 

Hi guys
I still used new 1/2 gates 1400 psi petrolium hose for that connection ... I was not happy about that ...but I also use high pressure smooth band fuel injection clamps ... they were rated for 250 psi ...
On the other end I used a reusable hydraulic ....same style as the ones I used to make my lines up .
I really never thought of removing the stock filter ...my trans came with a mag Hy Tec cover .... there very nice ....but I think the guy who owned the truck before me used a gasket .... there should be a oring to seal that pan ...I have a small drip on the passengers side ...it's either that or could be the dipstick tube ...is there a gromet or some seal to seal the tube in...?
Later
Greg

 

There is an O'ring. You may want to try slightly twisting and pushing down on the tube that fixed mine when it had started leaking after working on the valve body.

 

Any of you guys know the size of that O-ring for the trans dip stick tube ... just in case .

Thanks

Greg