If I remember correctly, we had to raise the idle speed after the GSK install.

Put a diagnostic computer on the truck and drove around for a bit. Nothing showed up other than the TPS voltage was high. (Remember that I set it at 1.37 volts.)
Going to get the GSK preload checked in the next couple of days. Hopefully that's the culprit, as I'm running out of ideas. I don't mind putting in a TC lockup switch, but I don't want to have to use it all of the time, as I'm not the only one who drives this truck.

Thanks again for the help!

 

You guys need to use the search feature. Look for converter lock-unlocking!
Electrical issues!!!

 

take it easy j-fox, it really sounds like the gsk screws are too tight or too loose. you dont have to put everything back together to try it out, you just have to move the shutoff lever by hand to turn it off. if you say you had to raise the idle then it sounds like the screws are too loose. however you are also saying you can pull to 33-3400 rpms which would mean your springs are too tight. could it be possible that both sides are not tightened equally? i have done 2 gsk's and they were both about 5 1/2 - 6 turns on each side and you wanna make sure the slot in the screw is facing the same direction as it did when you started. say it was turned to 1 o clock before you installed the kit, you want the screw in the same position after the kit. if you have any more questions PM wannadiesel on here, he is more knowledgeable than me on the subject and he helped me get through my first one over the phone. did you take out the shims at the bottom of the springs? good luck my friend.

 

is your revving with a load or no load? that might be normal with no load. i would say make sure they are equal on both sides first then tighten it a half turn, see if its worse, if it is back it off a full turn so you end up with a net loosening of a half turn compared to when you started, then see if its better or worse. even though i think you should loosen the springs, start out tightening them because you dont want to go too loose and have them fall off (ive never heard of this happening but with my luck its a possibility even though the centripital force would prevent them from not having any pressure on them, better to be safe than sorry). if its not your gsk at least its one thing ruled out and it doesnt cost you any money. once again, good luck.

 

Thread back from the dead!

Gov springs got loosened up a click some time ago. Made quite a difference in the TC behavior. It stayed locked up much more than before. Still, it would unlock from time to time under an even speed. Mostly when going down an overpass.

That all changed last night. Some bozo in a convertable decided to pull out right in front of me, and proceeded to drive in the bike lane at about 10 MPH.
I rolled past him and let him have a cab full of soot. Not usually my thing, but the guy irked me with his little "joke". Stomped my foot to the floor. I usually always "roll" on the throttle.
After that, I got concerned when I let out of it, because my TC locked up on deceleration. That's never happened before.
Since then, it locks up perfectly in 3rd and OD, and stays locked untill you either slow down to the "lock-up speed" (approx 45 in OD, and 25 or so in 3rd), or touch the brakes. If you release the brakes at a speed above "lock-up speed", it will lock back up. It also seems to stay locked under hard acceleration. (Haven't tried WOT yet, but I will)
Remember, I adjusted my TPS to 1.37 volts? I was under the impression that a high voltage reading would create a situation like this, but hadn't experienced it yet.
I wonder if something was a bit sticky. I've used WOT plenty of times, but have never floored it that quick. Hopefully, I just broke something free, and didn't actually break something. I wouldn't think so, as I've worked the motor and trans much harder than that before.

If nothing's wrong, I see no reason for my TC lock-up switch to leave the top of my tool box.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Chad