I have a new throttle problem tonight. Went to take the wife out for ice cream and the truck wouldn't start. It turned over strong, but no-start. It has tried this a couple times before, but usually started just fine on the second attempt. Tonight, however, it just wouldn't start. Multiple attempts have failed to get the truck to start.

Additionally, when I pushed on the throttle, it felt like the other end of the throttle cable was attached to a 10 lb weight. Taking my foot off the pedal, it kinda popped right back up. It doesn't feel like there is any binding whatsoever. Just the heavy pedal. I checked the throttle linkage under the hood and didn't see anything by flashlight, but will have to wait till after work tomorrow to try a little more throrough inspection in daylight.

Is there anything I should look for? I thought about the throttle cable problem others have had, but it doesn't seem like it's binding, and the pedal goes all the way to the floor.

I don't know if this is related, but I've had a lot more white smoke lately after startup, even though it hasn't been that cold (50s at night). The truck would even act like it had been really cold at the end of the day at work, too. Once it had warmed up, it ran fine.

Thanks!
Dave

 

Sounds like your rod to the fuel sominoid valve fell off....I had the same sort of thing happen....I had to weld my solinoid rod back together. When it comes off the valve arm, it hits the throttle linkage, causing the cable to bind up and feel heavy. The no start is from the solinoid not pulling up or the rod is off teh arm. You can reach down and manually lift the arm , then start the truck and drive it as needed. You ll need to reach down and push it down to shut the truck off though. Not hard, I drove for a week like that opening and closing the hood.


The white smoke it from the solinoid not pulling your valve open all te way, slowing falling apart......until it broke.

Just for reference, if you have to weld the rod back together like I did to save 300$, you need to get it pretty straight, I had to heat it up a couple times to get it straight so it wouldn t bind up in the solinoid.

 

Should you decide to replace the valve,check e-bay. Currently there's one for $210 plus shipping,but I've seen them for $180. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the input! I'll check that when I get home tonight. I am wanting to spend more money on the truck, but not for repairs...

 

Weld the rod?
The two pieces of the rod are held together by the boot and were never one piece. It's two pieces so the shaft can flex.
The solenoid is the most needlessly replaced part on a 12 valve, they rarely go bad. The problem is most always the relay or corrosion on blue wire coming off the driver's side battery.
The way you describe starting on the second try indicates to me the blue wire (fusible link)was mostly corroded passing just a little current till you "welded" it back together on the second try. Sounds like it finally totally separated. The fix most likely is to cut a few inches off the battery side of the blue wire and replace the crimp on eye connector.

The throttle should be hard to push when the engine isn't running, totally normal.

 

I didn t know that....by the time mine came apart, the boot was long gone....the way it looked was that the rod broke off ? I had no boot, and no way to keep it together.....so I welded the rod back on to the plunger part of the solinoid. Working great and didn t cost anything. I didn t catch the part about it starting on the second try......your right probably is electrical, and ofcourse your right its probably the most needlessly replaced. Mine actaullly came apart....

 

Bill,
When I got the truck, almost all of the wiring coming off the batteries was corroded. I cleaned most of the obvious corrosion off but had to replace the battery cable between the two batteries. I'll check the small wires coming off the battery, but they are alreay so short, I doubt I can cut any out and still be able to use it. I'll have to replace the wiring en-masse... Is there a part number, or is it better to just buy some wire and re-make the wiring?

And going to go with sealed batteries when these finally go toes-up...
Thanks!
Dave

 

Dave, the smaller wires coming off the positive pole are fusable links, the amprage is indicated by the wire color and are availible at any auto parts. I've been stumped by electrical problems before when a wire looked ok but was corroded deep down inside under the insulation. Many times an ohm meter won't tell you anything is wrong but when more amperage needs to flow it just doesn't make it.

 

Thanks Bill! I do appreciate the help!
Dave

 

With some finessing of the wiring, I was able to get enough wire to cut the corroded ends, put on new ends and reconnect to the battery. Actually took MUCH longer than it should as the bolts on the battery cables were stripped and rusted. I had to wrestle them out to replace them... Got everything hooked back up, and... NO GO. Still turns over but no start.

With the ignition switch on, I reached down and manually lifted the fuel shutdown solenoid arm and it held. Started right up... AND shut down just fine turning off the key/ignition.

Now what?? Is it the relay? If so, where is that located (description) and how easy is it to replace?



Dave

 

Yours will look different, it will be a double relay, the single is in later model trucks. It's the larger one you're after. Some people have been able to take the relay apart and sand the contacts to get a few more miles out of them.
buy a new one here http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

Might as well buy some starter contacts at the same time as you will eventually need them.

 

Bill,
Thanks. Looks like an easy fix. Now is there any way to get a double-relay to also cover the fuel heater relay, or is there a way to get a separate relay for that? I didn't see one on the Foster's site...
Dave

 

It sounds like Bill nailed it with the relay being the culprit but he also makes a good point about hidden corrosion inside the wire under the insulation. Several years ago we had a Ferd Taurus in which this very type of problem bit me. I had driven to Denver from Colorado Springs for a seminar. When I arrived back in the Springs I drove straight to my wife's work place to pick her up after work when the problem reared its ugly head. After entering the building's parking lot I drove over a couple of speed control bumps. Immediately after passing over the second one the car's engine shut down as if I'd turned the key off.

After spending 2 days troubleshooting the problem and chasing down better schematics of the electrical system and wiring color codes I finally discovered the problem. It was inside two wires going from the positive battery post that eventually terminated at the connector to the vehicle's computer connection on the firewall. Just looking at the wires there was no visible indication of anything wrong but apparently, over time, there had been enough battery acid/mists/fumes that got absorbed into the insulation near the ends that connected to the battery that it corroded these two wires to the extent that the continuity was broken by the slight vibration sent through the vehicle as I went over the last speed strip, thus cutting off power to the vehicle's computer. I cut out several inches of the affected wire, replaced it with new wire (soldered and heat-shrink applied to the joint to protect it) and it fired up like nothing wrong had happened.

What really surprised me was when I cut into these bad sections. The wire inside was totally surrounded by the same kind of white powder-like residue you would expect to see on corroded battery terminals yet from the appearance of the insulation you wouldn't guess there would be anything wrong with the wire.https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hreadid=64337#
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hreadid=64337#

Just some experience I thought I'd pass along in hopes it helps someone else down the road.https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hreadid=64337#
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hreadid=64337#

 

Why not take the electric solenoid off and put a push pull cable for start and stopping? All the older diesel engines had that type of set up.

 

Quite a few people do and so would I if I ever had to replace the expensive solenoid.
Fact of the matter is though that the solenoid rarely goes bad and the problem usually lies with components that are cheaper and easier to replace than adding on a cable.