I did a search on this with no luck, but, I do remember reading here the answer to my question...I just can't find it now. Anyways, the fuel return line to the fuel tank has started leaking(the truck runs so that's why I think it's the return line). I remember reading here there is an alternative to the OEM fuel lines. I think someone said to use either a silicon or rubber fuel line, but, I'm not sure. I'm worried that diesel will eventually disolve these, but, I really don't know. So, what type of fuel line can I use to replace the send and return fuel lines? What size lines should I get (it looks like they are two different sizes)? And, any guess on how much length I should get? Also, any advice to be aware of or what to look for while I'm replacing these lines? My local Dodge dealer will order me the OEM send and return fuel lines for a little less $250, but, they wouldn't be here until Monday if I order them tomorrow. My truck is the one in my sig. Thanks for the help and sorry for the longish post.

 

I believe they are 5/16 and 3/8 inch sizes. Don't use anything but marine grade. I've thought of doing this for my 97 but haven't got around to it yet. You can replace just the rubber part (I think the kit does that) or all the way front to back (more $$). You can get a kit or as much length as you want here at Larry B's website:

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

 

Man, your dealer really, REALLY likes you. A couple of months ago I was quoted over 500 bucks for the 2.

Just use diesel rated rubber hose from the tank to the engine.

I personally used 3/8" stainless tubing I had at work and bought a length of 5/16 tubing at Auto Zone for the return and only ended up using 3 feet or so of diesel rated hose for the ends. You will need to replace it all the way up to the engine, the steel lines quick connect at the tank and then quick connect under the drivers side floor. There are actually 2 sets of lines, the hard lines against the frame, then another set from the floor up to the engine, that set starts our with SS braided lines and changes to rubber at the engine.

If your hard lines aren't rusty, you could just use a disconnect tool to remove the short lines to the engine and replace just that part super easy.

If you need anything else, let us know.

 

I bought rolls of tubing and duplicated my stock bends, using diesel-rated marine flex hose for the flexible parts. It was time-consuming, but cheaper than buying from Dodge. Some people just abandon the steel and run hose from the tank to the pump. All a preference call, I suppose.

 

You want marine grade diesel fuel line (rubber) or at the very least diesel fuel rated hose. Call a local marina if possible, or maybe an RV store. You can replace from the pump all the way to the tank if you want to. Lots have including me. You'll need 3/8" and 5/16" hose (5/16" for the return line). Measure to make sure on length if you are going to replace all the way to the tank. I think I used about 12' of each.

I believe that the rating for the regular hose is SAE30R9 and the marine hose is A1, but not entirely sure that that's right. Don't trust the counter guy at the parts store. They will tell you that all hose is diesel rated, but it will dissolve regular fuel hose after some time.

You should be able to get all the hose and some good hose clamps for way less than $250. I think I spent about less than $100 when I did mine.

The only tricky part is tying the lines back into the module on the top of the tank. You can drop the tank, lift the bed, or squeeze between the frame rail and the bed side to do this. I squeezed in. The return line is pretty tough to get back on, but as long as you are a 3-armed monkey you'll be okay. Have patience and Good luck.

 

Wow! Four replies in the time that I took to type my one.

 

Thanks for all the help! The line that's actually leaking is the hard return line at the union from hard line steel to the braided steel(literally right under the driver side door). Both hard lines look to be in bad shape though, which is why I'm going to replace both and because I'd hate to replace one and have the other go shortly after. I'd like to replace the whole length of each with either all hose or replace the hard part with stainless steel. I think it would be easier for me to replace it with all hose but I like the idea of having stainless hard line where there's the possibility of something rubbing through. Thanks for the sizes...that's a huge help!!! I am wondering how the lines connect at the tank. Will I be able to simply disconnect the original lines and slide the replacement fuel "hose" on with a hose clamp or will I have to modify something...like cut the quick connect end off as an example? Also, I haven't looked at how they connect on the engine side yet. Will I have to modify something there too? Thanks again for all the help!

 

Most of us just connect the diesel rated hose right before the tank on the frame.

Waldersha, Diesel hose is diesel hose. Marine engines DONT use a different fuel.

BTW, www.vulcanperformance.com has Parker diesel and bio-diesel rated hose for the cheapest I can find.
15' of 3/8" and 5/16" is more than enough for an ex. cab. You will also need 4 hose clamps.

 

Well, I called around tonight and the only stuff locally that I found, ironically enough, from a marine shop, was fuel hose that is SAE J1527 USCG B1 rated. From what I can find, the only difference between B1 and A1 is A1 is subjected to the "fire test" which states that the hose should be able to withstand exposure to fire for 2.5 minutes. The B1 does not have to be subjected to that test. The SAE J1527 rating states that, among other things, it is for use with diesel or gas fuels. Since I don't have the time to wait for A1 hose to get shipped to me and they have both sizes I need, I'm going to give this stuff a try tomorrow. Thanks again.

I just checked out the Parker Bio-Diesel line and it is rated the same...J1527. So, I think I'll be good. Thanks!

dieselman2300, love the sig about "a bunch of overprised stuff...!" I just mentioned that to a buddy of mine the other day.

 

As long as its diesel rated you will be fine.
Thanks by the way.

 

I bought Trident Type A1 Fuel Hose #365 from Blue Water ships store on the net for only $1.75 per foot. This is a high quality hose for the best price I found.

 

We're on it like a dog on a bone.........

 

I cut my quick connect ends off at the tank. I "think" there may be 2 types though, mine had hard plastic tubes from the sender/pickup that ended in the quick disconnect. I have seen other pictures showing steel lines from the sender/pickup, so perhaps at some point in the past mine has been changed. In any instance, I just cut the plastic at the QC and that gave me a bunch to slide the rubber hose over and hose clamp it.

Oh yea, almost forgot, the steel line travels quite a ways along the tank. It would have made it much more difficult to deal with the tank by yourself, so I ended the steel lines at the front edge of the tank, and ran rubber that much further. Made it much easier laying on your back and getting the tank back up!

 

I did notice that the lines run along the length of the tank. The lines appear to be heavily rusted along their whole length, which is why I'm replacing their whole length. I'm hoping I'll only have to drop the tank a short distance since I can't get the truck on a lift tomorrow(the lift I'd normally use is occupied). It would have made this easier since I could have strapped the tank to a trans jack to lower it with good control. So, I'm just going to work something out with a couple car jacks to support/lower the tank with. Hopefully it doesn't become a problem. I really do hope I will be able to simply cut off the lines entering the tank and leave enough to slide the hose onto whats left with some clamps. I guess I'll find out soon enough. Thanks again!

 

Most of us connect straight to the tank and get rid of the hard lines alltogether.

Marine diesel hose is different from automotive grade fuel hose. It is generally bigger in diameter and is designed for use in water. Probably overkill, but gives you more protection from rubbing through.