Rubber Fuel Line Pics?
Rubber Fuel Line Pics?
Anybody have any pics or diagrams of where the rubber fuel lines are? I took a quick glance at it today and I only saw the short line from the lift pump to the fuel strainer. Going to order the simple replacement kit from fostertruck.com tomorrow.
If you remove your fuel filter you will see the return line right behind where the filter is. The hose clamp is a little forward of the filter. By the time the hose reaches the rear of the engine the intake line will join it, they are both held down by the same clamp. The other ends of the hoses are on top of the bell housing. I usually remove the rear engine lift hook and the two relays on the firewall in order to reach down on top of the bell housing. Some people prefer to remove the starter and come up from the bottom. Either way it's hassle, you have to work by feel.
The trick to removing the fuel filter easily and creating more room to work on a '94 is to remove the two nuts that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster, it doesn't look like it but the cylinder will move towards the driver's side very easily.
The trick to removing the fuel filter easily and creating more room to work on a '94 is to remove the two nuts that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster, it doesn't look like it but the cylinder will move towards the driver's side very easily.
No, just the upper ones. Unfortunately only the return line is shown in the diagram but once you start working on it you will find the input line at the top rear of the engine. There is a steel line that comes up from the fuel heater to the rear of the engine where the input hose begins. In fact the upper end of the intake hose is easier to get at than the upper return hose once you find it right in the area of the water temp sensor.
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Need some help... I just replaced the fuel return hose with some heavy duty stuff I got from LarryB. Removed the starter to do the contact upgrade, too, but found out it was already done... ugh...
Problem is, now the truck won't start.
It's acting just like it did when I had the fuel shutoff relay failure, but not sure how I may have toasted that as I'd disconnected the battery before I started the whole process...
(https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=64337)
With the key turned to the start position, I can reach under the hood and manually close the shutoff solenoid, so wondering if I did toast the relay. Unfortunately, it STILL won't start with the solenoid closed. Turns over nice and strong, though!! Could there have been air get in through the return line openings while I was replacing the hose? Not sure where to start looking now...
Thanks!
Dave
Problem is, now the truck won't start.
It's acting just like it did when I had the fuel shutoff relay failure, but not sure how I may have toasted that as I'd disconnected the battery before I started the whole process... (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=64337)
With the key turned to the start position, I can reach under the hood and manually close the shutoff solenoid, so wondering if I did toast the relay. Unfortunately, it STILL won't start with the solenoid closed. Turns over nice and strong, though!! Could there have been air get in through the return line openings while I was replacing the hose? Not sure where to start looking now...
Thanks!
Dave
Zach, nope, didn't try the manual pump... DOH! But how do I crack the feed line at the pump? Which line? How do I ID it? Will replacing a return line cause a loss of fuel in the filter? Still learning this engine, one repair at a time... 
Thanks!
Dave

Thanks!
Dave
If you are going to replace your lines with the kit from Larrys, im not sure about recently, but my kit only replaced the plastic secitons between the bell housing and frame rail. The highlighted line above is a different section. It should be replaced as well, but with one long piece. As a matter of fact, instead of replacing those sections, i would replace the whole length of fuel lines from tank to pump(return), and from tank to fuel strainer(supply). But you most likely need to lift your bed to access the tank connections to do so. So, its up to you how much work you want to put into it.
I put the larry b kit on mine, and a year later replaced all of the lines. Good luck-Jake
I put the larry b kit on mine, and a year later replaced all of the lines. Good luck-Jake
YES!! Mine was so dry-rotted, I was shocked it wasn't already leaking when I bought the truck last Sept. But I paid for it. As Bill (Infidel) said in another post, expect some scars. My arms are raw from reaching into tight places and working by feel at some points... I did remove my starter, too, as I'd intended to do the rebuild, so that helped from below. But again as mentioned by someone else, I should have pressure-washed the underside first.
Thanks again Zach!!
Dave
Thanks again Zach!!
Dave
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