My old '95 from a ranch out in Bailey Colorado with 400,000+ miles on it is getting a full refresh.
The motor is getting pulled along with the NV-4500 and T-case.

I am swapping in a '97 215HP motor with 146,000 miles on it along with a fresher NV-4500. Adding a SBC 400HP single disc clutch. I will also be adding a NP241 DHD T case to replace the NP 241DLD T-case that needs a rebuild. 4H no longer works.

Since this is my only winter driver and it started snowing 3 days ago....The same day I started this project...I am trying to knock this out.

I got the whole front clip off other than the fenders. Engine bay wiring is pulled, as are the driveshafts.

I hope to pull the transmission and T-case today.

 

Looking forward to watching the build Oliver!

 

Got the NV-4500 and NP-241 DLD pulled as a unit yesterday.
I plan to remove the cab mounts and move the cab a few inches up off the frame. I am doing this to give me more room to sneak that 12V out from under the cowl that sticks out a lot more on the 2nd gens. If needed I will remove the steering stem from the steering box, along with the brake master from the booster. This will save me from having to bleed out the brake system.

I plan to install the fresher motor with the NV-4500 transmission attached to it.

 

Got the cab spaced up off the cab mounts in the front by two inches. I have a 2x6 piece on its side with a piece of 1/2 inch plywood on it on passenger and driver's front cab mounts between the metal cab mount on the cab and the cab bushing.
On the back two cab mounts I added a 1x6 under each side to get me an extra 3/4 of an inch. So the cab is lifted off the frame and tilted back a bit, which will give me a little better room under the cowl to move things around.

Even with 2 inch extra between the frame rails and the cab, the brake lines where fine with stretching and straightening out a bit. The steering shaft, extended a bit freely and all the OEM and trailer wiring had enough slack to be fine as well. Even the e-brake cable had enough slack in the cable to lift the cab, without unbolting it.

I am getting close to pulling the motor. I plan on tackling that tomorrow. I have a few other things to prep up before that tonight. Like snake out the last of the engine wire harness and downpipe / Pac brake system. The exhaust brake has not worked during my ownership, so I am just pulling it and replacing it with a OEM turbo elbow. From there it will be running out a used 4 inch exhaust system with no muffler.
Sounds like good recipe for a solid winter work truck.

 

I got the old 400,000 mile motor pulled last night.
Now to swap over a few parts onto the '97 12V. I am just going to plug off the extra return line for the hydro boost at the pump, since I will be using the vacuum brake system that was OEM on my '95 2500.

Then I will test run the new donor motor on the shop floor, before shoe horning it into its new home.

 

I worked on other things as I waited for some parts to show up from Gens's Garage... A few '94-'96 filters and a timing case gasket that I did not have in my collection.
NAPA wanted over $50 for a fuel filter! They can stuff it - I would rather wait a week for a $19 Fleetguard filter. I really try to support and buy local but more than a %150 mark up for what is likely a lower quality product is not acceptable to me.
Now to button up the "new" 12V motor and attach the NV-4500 / NP-241 DHD combo and get it ready to tuck into the frame rails.

 

Played around with the torque wrench and some blue lock tite yesterday for a bit after sundown.

The adapter plate and the flywheel are installed.

 

Today I pressurized the fuel system and found a few leaks. One at the water in fuel drain itself. The other was one of the seals on the incoming line from the LP at the filter head was weeping.

I bleed the system to the injection pump. Then got ready to test run it on the shop floor, to check things out before burying it in the engine bay.

Once the battery was connected and power steering system filled and looped back to its return line. I started cranking it over and bleeding it at the injectors. Once I saw some fuel at those, I closed them and turned it over a few more times and it fired right up.

The motor idles smoothly and the RPM did not sound to be revving any higher than normal. I had turned the stock 215 governor springs in 3 clicks a side. I find the 215 pumped trucks usually rev to about 3000 freely, so it did not fell the need to chuck in some aftermarket gov springs for a daily driver winter rig.

I had also moved the AFC housing full forward, along with doing the free mods to it for more travel. Things like swapping out the washers, and grinding of a bit of the back of the rod on the OEM AFC foot. I swapped out the super stiff 215 AFC spring for a slightly lighter 175 HP pumps AFC spring.

The stock 215HP fuel plate was nudged forward the slightest amount, under a 1/16 of and inch.
When I gave the throttle a little blip from idle it seemed very responsive but did not puff smoke out the back of the turbo, like the tune was wack.

Tomorrow I will install the slightly used SB Clutch and the NV-4500. I am trying to install them together as aligning the transmission's input shaft in the clutch is easier on the shop floor, rather than all jammed up under the cab.

 

The clutch and NV-4500 are attached to the fresher motor now.
The part I was waiting for showed up yesterday, so I can button up the front of the timing case and install all the serpentine belted accessories.

Then it is time to stuff it into the frame rails.

 

I bought a front main seal installation tool. It basically looks like a hockey puck but fits into the groove on he back of the seal, making it easier to tap in straight.
I would say to was worth it. I see Geno's has them listed in their catalog. I had my girl order one from Amazon, it was about $20. Cheaper than ruining a seal or two getting it to seat correctly.

I am now ready to slide the powertrain back in.

 

Engine and transmission are tucked back into place with the motor resting in the motor mounts, as of last night.
I plan on hooking up as much as I can before dropping the cab down those 2/3 inches.

 

Just about finished up the truck yesterday. I am buttoning up the pyro the boost gauge wiring today, then installing the shifter boots.

Should be backing it out into the high of 10F weather later today.

 

The first test drive only lasted for 100 FT...Then she ran out of fuel.
Since it was at the peak heat of the day of 6F and it died right in the doorway to the shop. I hooked up the winched in. I have a winch chained to the back of the shop floor. When I poured the concrete years ago, I cast two Dana 60 front unbolts in the concrete. They stick up so I can throw a chain around them when I need a pulling point. It works great for winching in rigs that do not run well.

I discovered that the fuel line from the LP to the frame mounted stainless line was loose. I was loosing fuel prime.

Today I got it running and out of the shop in the fresh snow. It was. short drive but at the gauges, lights and the 4x4 worked as well as before or better. The idle was a little higher than it was before, but that can be expected with 3 clicks on the gov. springs.
I will test drive it a bit before I adjust it as I might need to make other adjustments to the pump. I would like to take things apart to get good access as few times as possible to get it dialed in.

 

It is out of the garage and back into daily driver status.

 

The truck is running great.
The idle is about 950RPM, so it is a little high. It works for now. I will likely address that in the spring when it warms up a bit. it is 4 F degrees here this morning.
The spring waste gate is set too loose as it gets tp about 20 PSI then looses its steam pretty quickly. Tightening that up is just turning an easy to get to nut, so I will likely adjust that shortly. Even out in the cold driveway, it will be a 1 minute job.